Is this pipework run ok?

[terryplumb]

Can't you put the rad on the wall, right side of the doorway ,or would that encroach on the other door / access ?
A vertical rad ?

 

[old duffer]

Because air is less dense than water, air collects at the top of a radiator which is provided with a bleed valve to release it. Any pipe which rises up, then back down, will likewise collect the air, but there is no provision to bleed it out. That radiator it feeds will be a constant source of problems of no flow, needing frequent attempts to clear the airlocks.

I have seen automatic bleed valves used in such circumstances where it cannot be avoided, but both airlocks and the valves are troublesome.

I love reading your logic, it always gives me a smile. So once the air is out (increase the water pressure past 2 bar) how will it get back in? Or are you going to talk about molecular physics again LOL

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

I love reading your logic, it always gives me a smile. So once the air is out (increase the water pressure past 2 bar) how will it get back in? Or are you going to talk about molecular physics again LOL

Just to remind you, you were proven wrong last time.

How do you ensure all of the air is out? That is next to impossible, besides - gas is produced by the rusting of the internal surface of radiators. It will all congregate at a high point and high point where it is difficult to do anything about is the top of that pipe.

Increasing the pressure will not help much with dispelling the airlock, turning all the other radiators will, so the entire flow of the pump passes through those two pipes.

 

[winston1]

Radiators don’t rust if inhibitors such as Fernox is in the system.

 

[old duffer]

Just to remind you, you were proven wrong last time.

How do you ensure all of the air is out? That is next to impossible, besides - gas is produced by the rusting of the internal surface of radiators. It will all congregate at a high point and high point where it is difficult to do anything about is the top of that pipe.

Increasing the pressure will not help much with dispelling the airlock, turning all the other radiators will, so the entire flow of the pump passes through those two pipes.

And once again, the basic laws of physics are not applicable in plumbing. Increase water pressure, increase temperature and you dissolve air into the water. It is a principle
of Henry's law of solubility.

 

[kevinsmbuk]

Just to remind you, you were proven wrong last time.

How do you ensure all of the air is out? That is next to impossible, besides - gas is produced by the rusting of the internal surface of radiators. It will all congregate at a high point and high point where it is difficult to do anything about is the top of that pipe.

Increasing the pressure will not help much with dispelling the airlock, turning all the other radiators will, so the entire flow of the pump passes through those two pipes.

A couple of things on this, how would going through the ceiling and then dropping down again be any different from what I have already done in terms of airlocks?

If it's just a no no in general, then in terms of chasing out floor, how would you run the pipework from it's current location?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

And once again, the basic laws of physics are not applicable in plumbing. Increase water pressure, increase temperature and you dissolve air into the water. It is a principle
of Henry's law of solubility.

Why don't you FOAD?

Yes you can dissolve a gas in a liquid by increasing the pressure substantially, but you cannot substantially increase the pressure by that much idiot. Even if you could temporarily, then reduced it, the gas would then bubble back out - back to square one.

YOU ARE NOW ADDED TO THE BLOCKED LIST - YOU NO LONGER EXIST..

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

A couple of things on this, how would going through the ceiling and then dropping down again be any different from what I have already done in terms of airlocks?

If it's just a no no in general, then in terms of chasing out floor, how would you run the pipework from it's current location?

The only long term satisfactory fix, is to have a reasonably constant rise up to a point where air can be bled - in this case the radiator. Your options really are limited to bleed valves at the top of the loop, or chasing the floor, or moving the radiator to a more suitable location.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

I've got a similar up and down setup into a shower room. I put manual bleed valves at the high point (access via a ceiling trap) but have never needed to touch them- discovered that once the system is full (open vent), cracking the drain valve I installed below the rad gives enough flow to clear the airlock, once cleared the airlock doesn't reappear til next time I drain down for whatever reason.
So for your setup I'd suggest a drain valve under the rad and/or a couple of manual bleed valves above the door and a hole in the wall so you can get at them (hide the hole with a clock or a picture or something)

 

[kevinsmbuk]

The only long term satisfactory fix, is to have a reasonably constant rise up to a point where air can be bled - in this case the radiator. Your options really are limited to bleed valves at the top of the loop, or chasing the floor, or moving the radiator to a more suitable location.

Many thanks, I dont think putting a bleed valve above the door frame would work and having an access panel to it would look a bit pants. Guess my only option is to chase out the floor and come up in copper.

 

[kevinsmbuk]

When you do this is there anything easier than using an sds, also when you reach the stud wall, would you notch the base plate then come up through the inside of the wall then horizontally out to the rad or chase underneath the base plate of the stud wall and come up through the floor in the next room?

Also how would you start the run, would you chased the wall out and 45 down then another 45 straight to start the run, or just cut back to the wall same connections but box it in, or even go into the garage (where the pipes come from) and drill new holes into the utility?

 

[Harry Bloomfield]

When you do this is there anything easier than using an sds,

Angle grinder, with a concrete cutting disk, to make two tramlines, then SDS to chop out between the tramlines.

 

[kevinsmbuk]

Angle grinder, with a concrete cutting disk, to make two tramlines, then SDS to chop out between the tramlines.

Yeah made the run now, didnt have an angle grinder so used a cordless tool with a smaller diamond disc that done the same sort of thing, used an SDS but found my 15kg breaker was handy! I have conduit to run the copper pipe in so no worries with corrosion, with copper joints that are soldered can be buried right?

 

[sxturbo]

Yeah made the run now, didnt have an angle grinder so used a cordless tool with a smaller diamond disc that done the same sort of thing, used an SDS but found my 15kg breaker was handy! I have conduit to run the copper pipe in so no worries with corrosion, with copper joints that are soldered can be buried right?

Yes with insulation

 

[kevinsmbuk]

Yes with insulation

Do they have to be insulated? it's only about 1.5 metres.