Is this setup okay?

[Mr Sparkle]

Is it okay to power an outdoor light powered via a socket but to also have switch connected to the circuit to control the light?

 

[flameport]

Yes

 

[oldbutnotdead]

It's a poor way to do it but as long as you use appropriate cable from the plug to the switch (flex, not T & E) and appropriate fusing in the plug for the flex and the load it can be a safe acceptable solution.

 

[SUNRAY]

Without further details of the proposal I think both answers are based on assumption that a plug is proposed.

I read OP as 'can I wire from a socket to power a light?' to which the simple answer is no.

 

[Mr Sparkle]

Yes

Love this guy.. Straight to the point.. No wasted words

It's a poor way to do it but as long as you use appropriate cable from the plug to the switch (flex, not T & E) and appropriate fusing in the plug for the flex and the load it can be a safe acceptable solution.

Why?

Thanks for advising on the correct cable to use.

Without further details of the proposal I think both answers are based on assumption that a plug is proposed.

I read OP as 'can I wire from a socket to power a light?' to which the simple answer is no.

Here are all the details (warning long read)

Doing the job for a friend who runs a commercial shop.

He wants outdoor lighting and there is a internal socket conveniently located on the other side of the wall where he wants the outdoor light.

So I plan to wire the light into a plug, then plug this into the 2 gang socket

He also wants to be able to control the light via a switch as the socket is high up the wall and he doesn't want to use a ladder each time he wants to turn it off.

For convenience, I have advised that he should use wireless switches

Some may say, well why not take the feed from the lighting circuit?

The reason being convenience (i.e. location of the existing socket)

The shop is very busy with customers so need to be in and out as quick as possible.

The shop has about 12 lights, running to one switch and Faffing about trying to find the com/power is not my idea of fun and a slower job

 

[conny]

Fit one of these remote adaptor plugs into the socket. Plug the light direct into the adaptor.
You have a small remote which turns that side of the double socket on and off. No need to be climbing ladders or fitting switches etc.

British General 13A Smart Plug White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Smart adaptor that controls power via the BG Home app or voice control. Continues to work when internet connection is lost. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

We use these ones for hard to get to sockets, such as behind TV's under the bed etc. Had them over two years now and no problems.

Eveready Remote Control Mains Sockets 2pk

Switch appliances off or on at the touch of a button, without having to move, with this wonderful Remote Controlled Mains Socket. 2 pack - B&M Stores.

www.bmstores.co.uk

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Fit one of these remote adaptor plugs into the socket. Plug the light direct into the adaptor.
You have a small remote which turns that side of the double socket on and off. No need to be climbing ladders or fitting switches etc.

British General 13A Smart Plug White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Smart adaptor that controls power via the BG Home app or voice control. Continues to work when internet connection is lost. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

We use these ones for hard to get to sockets, such as behind TV's under the bed etc. Had them over two years now and no problems.

Eveready Remote Control Mains Sockets 2pk

Switch appliances off or on at the touch of a button, without having to move, with this wonderful Remote Controlled Mains Socket. 2 pack - B&M Stores.

www.bmstores.co.uk

Yes this.
I have some fairly old remote control adaptors like the ones linked to, they've been fine EXCEPT one of them was frequently triggered by a car alarm fob (not mine...). If there is WiFi on site consider a 'smart' type adaptor, they work really well with Alexa and her chums. Don't do this if the WiFi network is being used for POS or any secure applications.
Having fixed equipment connected via plug and socket is just a bit scruffy.
I'm a little concerned that you are asking questions like this and working on commercial premises....

 

[Ragnar_AT]

A more permanent solution would be trunking or conduit from the socket down to a convenient location, allowing you to run 2.5 mm2 to a fused connection unit. From that you can run 1 mm2 back up to the light. Fit a 3 A fuse. Can only be done if the socket is not on an unfused spur from a ring.

 

[SUNRAY]

Love this guy.. Straight to the point.. No wasted words


Why?

Thanks for advising on the correct cable to use.


Here are all the details (warning long read)

Doing the job for a friend who runs a commercial shop.

He wants outdoor lighting and there is a internal socket conveniently located on the other side of the wall where he wants the outdoor light.

So I plan to wire the light into a plug, then plug this into the 2 gang socket

He also wants to be able to control the light via a switch as the socket is high up the wall and he doesn't want to use a ladder each time he wants to turn it off.

For convenience, I have advised that he should use wireless switches

Some may say, well why not take the feed from the lighting circuit?

The reason being convenience (i.e. location of the existing socket)

The shop is very busy with customers so need to be in and out as quick as possible.

The shop has about 12 lights, running to one switch and Faffing about trying to find the com/power is not my idea of fun and a slower job

Thank you for the update which as you noticed is different to my original interpretation. In that case the answer is yes. Other suggestions with remot control units are valid, I've found the 'basic' units are subject to interference, I think the more recent Kinetic devices are likely to be more immune/reliable.
Like others I'm also a little concerned about this being executed in a commercial situation.

 

[ebee]

I think the Yes/No difference was purely because the words "via a socket" could be interpreted either as A/ using a plug or B/ wired directly to the socket terminals/

 

[Mr Sparkle]

Fit one of these remote adaptor plugs into the socket. Plug the light direct into the adaptor.
You have a small remote which turns that side of the double socket on and off. No need to be climbing ladders or fitting switches etc.

British General 13A Smart Plug White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Smart adaptor that controls power via the BG Home app or voice control. Continues to work when internet connection is lost. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

We use these ones for hard to get to sockets, such as behind TV's under the bed etc. Had them over two years now and no problems.

Eveready Remote Control Mains Sockets 2pk

Switch appliances off or on at the touch of a button, without having to move, with this wonderful Remote Controlled Mains Socket. 2 pack - B&M Stores.

www.bmstores.co.uk

Thanks, never heard of the remote control mains sockets before. That's an excellent suggestion.

Having fixed equipment connected via plug and socket is just a bit scruffy.

I understand.

To be honest, he is not worried with how it looks, he just wants light outside.

I'm a little concerned that you are asking questions like this and working on commercial premises....

You worry too much

I am very confident and comfortable with electrics (e.g. recently rewired 4 bed house and changed consumer unit)

I only asked whether my proposal was 'okay' because i wanted to ensure that there wasn't an electrical regulation somewhere prohibiting my plan.

I think the more recent Kinetic devices are likely to be more immune/reliable.

Love kinetic devices. I use them everywhere and they've been 100% reliable for me.

Like others I'm also a little concerned about this being executed in a commercial situation.

Is there something I am missing here?

Why are some of the posters concerned with this taking place in a commercial premises?

I think the Yes/No difference was purely because the words "via a socket" could be interpreted either as A/ using a plug or B/ wired directly to the socket terminals/

Yes, I should have been clearer with my original post.

 

[bernardgreen]

Doing the job for a friend who runs a commercial shop.

Why are some of the posters concerned with this taking place in a commercial premises?

Because the insurance company ( one assumes your friend has insurance cover ) may not accept electrical work carried out by an unqualified person,

 

[SUNRAY]

I think the Yes/No difference was purely because the words "via a socket" could be interpreted either as A/ using a plug or B/ wired directly to the socket terminals/

I didn't make my statements clear enough, yes that is A/ OP's intent and B/ My initial interpretation of OP question

 

[pcaouolte]

Because the insurance company ( one assumes your friend has insurance cover ) may not accept electrical work carried out by an unqualified person,

I'm currently struggling to get insurers to accept a properly qualified electrician working on commercial premises just because the electrician is not VAT registered.

 

[SUNRAY]

I'm currently struggling to get insurers to accept a properly qualified electrician working on commercial premises just because the electrician is not VAT registered.

Has become a recognition point.
For example car warranty now specifies regular servicing by VAT registered garage.