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Jointing 230mm worktop at 90 degrees, for bathroom
- Thread starter Mike2007
- Start date
Trend do a small one but I don't think it has peg holes for 230mm spacesaving tops.
Just use a kitchen jig, put the pins in for a 600mm top, measure back 370mm and put a mark on the jig, clamp the jig to your top so the marks line up with the end of your worktop.
Jason
Just use a kitchen jig, put the pins in for a 600mm top, measure back 370mm and put a mark on the jig, clamp the jig to your top so the marks line up with the end of your worktop.
Jason
Mike - Trend's stuff is top quality tackle but for occassional users there are cheaper jigs to buy, which accomplish the same results - Screwfix or Axminster do their own brands. You can hire a router & jig but be warned they are likely to have been well used; check the jig for damage to the guide ways and only accept one that's got no damage here otherwise you'll discover lumps have been routed out of your w/t. It's false economy to attempt this job with a used cutter.
Good butt & scribe joints, complete with bolt-pockets below, are not straight-forward to produce without good planning/preparation, accurate measuring, steady work bench or trestles (3 or 4), a 1/2" router and the appropriate SHARP tipped-cutter. You'll also need a biscuit jointer and of course the jig and clamps.
Novices will attempt to do the router cut in one pass with terrible results, badly formed edges, lumps missing, etc. 3 passes at gradually increasing depths should produce a smooth, square edge. Always start your cuts at the front edge of the w/t (the curved edge with the laminiate) and emerge at the back of the w/t - this will prevent break-out (splitting off) of the laminate. One cut will be made via the top surface of the w/t, the matching edge of the joint will be cut on the underside of the w/t; you flip it over.
Good butt & scribe joints, complete with bolt-pockets below, are not straight-forward to produce without good planning/preparation, accurate measuring, steady work bench or trestles (3 or 4), a 1/2" router and the appropriate SHARP tipped-cutter. You'll also need a biscuit jointer and of course the jig and clamps.
Novices will attempt to do the router cut in one pass with terrible results, badly formed edges, lumps missing, etc. 3 passes at gradually increasing depths should produce a smooth, square edge. Always start your cuts at the front edge of the w/t (the curved edge with the laminiate) and emerge at the back of the w/t - this will prevent break-out (splitting off) of the laminate. One cut will be made via the top surface of the w/t, the matching edge of the joint will be cut on the underside of the w/t; you flip it over.
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