Keep her running a bit longer

[DIYIdoit]

Hi

I need some help keeping the old girl alive.
I have a 1999 ford fiesta 1.2 or 1.25 finesse with 100k+ miles. I'm not good with car maintenance so I'm afraid she's been neglected a bit and running quite badly with an oil leak and the engine sounds terrible - probably from the lack of oil!
As she's only worth a few hundred quid I can't spend much cash but I think the most basic of maintenance will be beneficial.
I was thinking of changing the oil, oil filter and air filter, maybe even the plugs.
So my questions are:
1. When I remove the sump plug will I need a new one or a seal or something?
2. Will I need the special tool to get the oil filter off or will a penetrated screwdriver for a handle do?
3. Is there any benefit using those engine flushes and if so which is the best one?
4. If I get new plugs, will they be set up for the required car or will I have to get some feeler gauges and set them myself?
5. Is there anything else I can easily do to improve things.
6. Are there any mechanics in my area who will come and do it for free!!!!

Thanks for any help.

 

[iwaters]

Response to your questions:

1) It is best practice to replace the washer, although I think most motor factors sell the plug+washer, it costs about £1.
2) An oil filter wrench is easier although you might be able to do it with a screwdriver. Modern oil filters seem to be made of thiner material than they used to be and I found once the screwdriver cut right through the metal casing.
3) Wouldn't bother with an engine flush. It's an added expense and probably wont be of much benfit.
4) Plugs should be pre-gapped for your car, again it is best practice to check the gap but you should be fine.
5) Fix the oil leak?
6) I doubt it but if you don't ask you don't get!

Having said all that if the car has been leaking oil and has been neglected through lack of oil then your engine could be close to becoming toast. If the engine sounds like a bag of spanners you could have worn bearings or damage to the valve train which is probably going to cost more to repair than the car is worth. An oil and filter change isn't going to fix it. On the other hand you maybe catching it before it gets too bad.

What exactly does the engine sound like? Does it make a loud rattling sound which rises with the revs?

 

[DIYIdoit]

Thanks for your reply IW,

The car does sound like a bag of spanners. In the morning when I engage the clutch to change gear, the revs pick up a bit as the load decreases, the sound is so bad I have to mentally block it out otherwise I have the urge to drive directly to the scrap yard! This noise does ease a little after putting some oil in.
Even worse than the sound is the complete lack of power, it's embarrassing! On a completely flat road I'll really struggle to get to 55. A slight decline will see maybe 70 but a slight incline I'll max out at 40. She's definately on her way out!

I'll go to Halfords (It's very close) at lunch time to get a plug washer (is it specific for the job or will any same size washer do?) and look at prices for an oil filter wrench.
I won't bother with the engine flush then, put the money towards new plugs.

As far as fixing the leak is concerned, wherever it is, won't it cost too much compared with the cars value? When I put oil in there is a lot (and I do mean a lot) of goo on the cap. I don't even want to think about head gaskets.

Thanks again.

 

[iwaters]

Sounds like the engine is on its last legs. Is there any mayo on the dipstick? What colour is the oil in the sump? If it's just on the filler cap it is probably condensation mixing with the oil rather than coolant. Having said that as you are experinceing a fairly major loss of power as well I think your headgasket may have gone.

You might be better saving the money for the service items to buy a new car.

 

[Peter.N.]

If I were you, I would put the money towards another car, I think this one has been ruined by neglect.

 

[Richard C]

If it already sounds like a bag of spanners & has no power, no amount of general servicing is going to make the slightest bit of difference; you will be throwing good money away.

otherwise I have the urge to drive directly to the scrap yard!

Probably the wisest move or sell it as a non runner.

 

[DIYIdoit]

Your probably right, too little too late.
On top of the engine problems the interior light and headlight alarm doesn't work on the drivers side, the rear wiper works only 75% of the time, only 1 of the measly 2 speakers work and now the drivers door won't unlock with the (one and only) key - I have to scramble over the passenger seat. What a beauty!!

It's my GFs car, her ex had it from new and put some good miles on it, then she got it when they split up, then when we had kids I sold my dream S40 T4 for a more sensible car for her and the kids - Merc A class. So I ended up with this bag of bones, I've spent a fortune fixing it's little problems over the years as well - but I never had it serviced. Oh well, she's stood up not too bad through a hard life, can't complain too much.

If we have any cash left after our wedding in June I think I'll try and part ex her for a Rover 25 or 45. Not the best car in the world I know but very cheap for a second car.

Thanks anyway.

 

[Peter.N.]

...and buy yourself a Hains manual.

 

[Deluks]

If we have any cash left after our wedding in June I think I'll try and part ex her for a Rover 25 or 45.

I didn't think newlywed brides depreciated in value that quickly!

 

[DIYIdoit]

If we have any cash left after our wedding in June I think I'll try and part ex her for a Rover 25 or 45.

I didn't think newlywed brides depreciated in value that quickly!

I think if I were part exing the GF I'd have to go for something a little better than a Rover 45...

...maybe a Ford Focus!

Is getting a cheap Rover is a false economy, parts availability and all? Will I be shooting myself in the foot when things start needing replacing?

 

[Peter.N.]

The best, cheapest to repair and most reliable cars in my opinion are the Peugeot diesels made in the '90s, 306 or 405/6 TDs are better, get a good one, look after it and it could do 300,000 miles.

 

[DIYIdoit]

Thanks Peter,

I'll bear that in mind when I come to look. Although I was thinking of something younger, you have to think of rust and wear and tear and stuff. The last thing I want is to get a new car only to have to start with the exhaust, breaks and bodywork all over again. The obvious answer is to get a good one to start with as you say but that's not so easy with people like me who can write what they know about cars on the back of a stamp!

My ideal choice for a second car by the way would be a Volvo 480 Celebration. But they are obviously money pits if you can't do the work yourself - like me.

You're right about the Haynes manual though, until 10 years ago I bought one with every car I had and did a bit of tinkering. I think I lost heart when I changed the clutch cable on a mark III or IV escort (can't remember which one it was, I had a III then a IV), that put me right of mechanics for life!

 

[Peter.N.]

Shouldn't be any rust on the Peugeot's they are galvanised. The newer you get, the more electronics and greater potential for problems and you cant repair them yourself.

Peter

 

[gman76]

Older post I realise.

If I were you I'd forget replacing the sump bolt/washer, just change the oil & filter - just stab a screwdriver straight through the filter to remove (messy) & don't use a flush - IIRC Zetecs don't like engine flushes.

Change the plugs - yes you will need to gap them (feeler gauge cheap).

A plug change can work wonders on these - I had a bad hesitation issue on acceleration when the plugs were only changed 6000 mls previous - cured immediately.

Then check the oil & top up weekly.

I bet there's life in the ol' girl yet!

 

[DIYIdoit]

Thanks gman, I might just have a go.