Kitchen Appliance Isolation....Sorry

[Ydraiggoch]

Ok, firstly apologies in advance for any debates this question may cause. I appreciate that there is differing opinion across the Electrical world which probably explains why I can’t find a definitive answer.


So my question is this. I will be installing a new kitchen soon (in Scotland) which will have various integrated appliances. First of all Wifey would like 2 x ovens, a Microwave & a Fridge/Freezer all on one wall integrated in tall (Floor to Ceiling) cupboards. Then There is an island. This will have a Hob (Induction) and a Socket post installed. The other wall will have an integrated Dishwasher and will locate the Kettle / Toaster over there too (Sockets).


To feed these I will supply the, Micrwave & Fridge will go onto the dedicated Kitchen Ring Main (32A). The 2 Ovens will be fed off one radial circuit (size depending on Ovens she chooses) and switched via 2 (possibly) 20A DP Switches. The Hob will be again fed from its own supply, although once again I have no data for the rating of this yet. But would hope to split this feed to supply the 2 x sockets for the Island. Again would need to switch the Hob via an isolator too. The Dishwasher will probably just be a fused spur from the Kitchen Ring.


So here’s the question. What are the options to switch these appliances? Where do I locate the Isolator for the Hob? I can’t really locate this on the walls as this would be >2m from the appliance. So would need to be on the island. I’m of the opinion that this is part of the ’fabric’ so am not to concerned about that. But what about the issue of mounting? In your experience, how have you done this ie cable run, mounting of the isolator (outside or in?)


For the Ovens, again where do you put the switches for these? The Wife is not keen on the Grid Switch idea, and her preference is not to see any switch at all. But appreciate that may not be an option.


The Dishwasher is fine as I can locate the fused spur on a wall out the way.


So, with out sparking to much debate. What are the common practices associated with installing a modern kitchen in terms of isolation. Ie how best do you comply with the regulation but at the same time keep all the switches discreet as possible?


Many thanks

 

[deadshort]

Hi, you do not have to have any visible switches at all. I have to say, having just finish my kitchen to-day where i have used MK Aspect Grid system it looks great. The 20a max loading is a bit of a pain, but i have just fitted a contractor to switch the induction hob and double ovens.

Regards,

DS

 

[JohnW2]

So here’s the question. What are the options to switch these appliances? Where do I locate the Isolator for the Hob? I can’t really locate this on the walls as this would be >2m from the appliance. So would need to be on the island. I’m of the opinion that this is part of the ’fabric’ so am not to concerned about that. ... For the Ovens, again where do you put the switches for these? The Wife is not keen on the Grid Switch idea, and her preference is not to see any switch at all. But appreciate that may not be an option. ... So, with out sparking to much debate. What are the common practices associated with installing a modern kitchen in terms of isolation. Ie how best do you comply with the regulation but at the same time keep all the switches discreet as possible?

Perhaps the first observation to make is that, despite what some people seem to think, I am aware of no regulatory requirement to have a 'local' switch/isolator for any of the items. For a variety of reasons (in addition to a misguided belief that it is 'required'), many people choose to have an isolator/emergency switch reasonably close (but not too close) to each appliance, but that is their choice.

Kind Regards, John

 

[JohnW2]

... i have used MK Aspect Grid system it looks great. The 20a max loading is a bit of a pain, but i have just fitted a contractor to switch the induction hob and double ovens.

As a matter of interest, what circuit have you used for the contactor coil?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Ydraiggoch]

Thanks for the replies. So Isolators not required then. To be honest, that makes more sense when you consider the mainn point of isolation would be the CU.
But, i do think its a good idea to switch them individually. In this case, i would want to mount them inside a cupboard. Take the island for example. How would you run the cable inside the cabinet? Without giving risk to the cabl becoming damaged. DS did you fit an island? What power did you take to it and did you put your grid switch on the island?
Cheers

 

[JohnW2]

Thanks for the replies. So Isolators not required then. To be honest, that makes more sense when you consider the mainn point of isolation would be the CU. But, i do think its a good idea to switch them individually.

For what it's worth, so do I. The main advantage is that if one of the appliances develops a fault which causes a breaker to trip, it can be individually isolated, hence allowing one to carry on using everything else. Isolation at the CU may well take out several appliances.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

her preference is not to see any switch at all.

Make her repeat, over and over again until she gets it:

"A kitchen is a place of work".

 

[Ydraiggoch]

Hi Ban all Sheds,

I think she may take that a different way to what you mean! Not brave enough for that!

As I said, I tend to agree with whats being said in that there are definitely benefits in having local switching. Its just how to get the best of both worlds where you have both a discreet and accessable location. And I think the island is causing me most confusion!