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Kitchen - Fitting a straight corner unit

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by darkan9el, 6 Dec 2018.

  1. Yeahaa

    Yeahaa

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    Leaving a 500mm walkway down the middle ?, think the idea was to keep as much galley width as possible
     
  2. darkan9el

    darkan9el

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    That would have been nice but unfortunately its a tight (Narrow) galley kitchen.

    Thank you
     
  3. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Can’t see any mention of kitchen dimensions. You need a minimum 800mm for safe kitchen .
     
  4. Yeahaa

    Yeahaa

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    Guessing he only had 1875mm Width wall to wall to start with, minus the depth of 2 corner cabs leaving a @ 664mm.
    Guessing is nothing else on the left hand wall apart from the corner cab return , and then probably an external door .
    So apart from the U shape to gain a little extra worktop at one end , assuming the right hand side is a straight run .
     
  5. darkan9el

    darkan9el

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    at the moment it leaves 710mm worktop edge to worktop edge which I know is a bit tight, the width of the kitchen is 1920mm and is consistent all the way up, the kitchen is surprisingly square as well. Most of the utilities will be going on the right side which is the outside wall. The dishwasher which has a dropdown door will be at the end of the right-hand side run and there will be nothing in front of it i.e no units or worktop to hinder access or restrict movement. The cooker has doors that fold under and in so nothing sticking out.

    On the left side there is just an under-counter fridge which will sit at the side of the left-hand corner unit and a 600mm 3 draw base unit.

    I did consider cutting about 2cm off the back edges of the cabinets either side to give a bit more room but then it starts to get messy with the worktops and having to plane the back edges as well. My partner is small so to her there is plenty of room, I generally don't venture into that domain unless beckoned lol!
    Most of the storage space will be in the wall units which are high approx 900mm tall with a small amount of boxing in to get to the ceiling.
     
  6. darkan9el

    darkan9el

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    As a sub question what is the accepted method for fitting freestanding end panels to make them sturdy? see image below.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    Angle bracket to wall, floor and top. Set the brackets back far enough that they can't be seen when the appliances are in place. I try to recess them into the panels (shallow housings formed using a router) and the floor so that the appliances don't catch on them when you pull them out. Of course where there;s a unit it's just a case of screw through from the inside, ideally hiding the front ones beneath hinge cruciform plates, putting them in drawer spaces, just beneath worktops, etc so as to make them inconspicuous - and if all else fails FastCap do self-adhesive round "spots"
     
  8. darkan9el

    darkan9el

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    Thanks for the info, looks like I'm doing the end panels fastened to the units right and seating the angle brackets into the units like hinges sounds a neat job. I did consider screwing a flat tee Bracket to the base of the end panel as it will be hidden by laminate flooring.
     
  9. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Was confused by you description of galley kitchen which are usually long and narrow with access each end . Your’s is a square ‘U’ kitchen .
     
  10. darkan9el

    darkan9el

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    Hi Foxhole, no I have a galley kitchen that is U shaped it has a door to the outside and another to the hall. I'd take a picture but it looks like a bombs gone off at the moment, I'll take one tomorrow when I've tidied up a bit lol!
    [​IMG]
     
  11. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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