Kitchen refit and CPC problem

It is a TN-S supply. I am not sure if this makes much different as I assume a fault can cause can cause a large amount of current to flow through the earth cable regardless of what the appliance consumes, but we have no electric cooker or shower.
If you are absolutely certain that it is TN-S (and not TN-C-S) then that makes a lot of difference in terms of the regs, since it would mean that 6mm² cable (with or without joins) would almost certainly be adequate for a main bonding conductor, whereas the minimum would be 10mm² if it were TN-C-S (PME).

Kind Regards, John
 
Thanks for clearing this up. Either way if I end up replacing the cable I will use 10mm obviously even if I end up keeping the cable I will buy a clamp and scrape the paint of the pipe and of course bridge the plastic.

Now just got plumbing nightmares to solve :).
 
... even if I end up keeping the cable I will buy a clamp and scrape the paint of the pipe and of course bridge the plastic.
There's actually no 'of course' about bridging the plastic joint with a cable. On the contrary, many would argue that it's not only unnecessary but actually unnecessarily increases hazards.

The purpose of main protective bonding is to bond to the house's earthing system anything (like pipes) which enter the property and could introduce true earth potential (aka 'extraneous conductive parts'). This is to avoid the possibility of dangerous potential differences existing between the house's earth system (hence, for example, exposed metal parts of appliances) and pipework etc. (somewhat analogous to the wristband you may wear when doing some of your IT work, to prevent static PDs existing between your hands and the equipment) Any pipework within the house which is electrically insulated from the 'extraneous conductive parts' (e.g. by the existence of a plastic joint, or a section of plastic pipe) do not present such a hazard and therefore do not need to be bonded.

Kind Regards, John
 

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