Laser levels and right angles.

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I'm looking at purchasing a laser level in order to be able to square up new walls and old existing walls (And render) in an old house I am reconstructing.

The problem is this, the existing old walls aren't sitting straight on their foundations, the corners in the rooms aren't square.

I'll be building new internal walls, and already have built one new wall, at a perpendicular angle to the outside wall.

I now need to square up the old corners of the house before building a new internal wall, we're talking about 5-10cm difference over 4 meters.


The grey walls are existing walls, the middle of which will be removed.

The red walls will be new walls, thick means main wall, thin line means just to straighten the existing walls with render or thin blockwork depending on how out of true it is in relation to the rest of the house.

The red and grey dotted line is the already built new wall.

The plan would be to place a line perpendicular to the new built wall (Red/Grey dotted line) and project it onto the floor and the outside wall (top of picture), then measure back from that position on various locations to the right outside wall.

I've noticed most devices do not have a square backside to them so they can be placed perpendicular to a surface to project a perpendicular line to their mounting surface.

Ideally I would be able to use it to level the new ceiling and floors as well at a later point.

Can anyone advise me what kind of device would be best for this.
I'm looking at spending a maximum of around £130,-
 
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We use the Leica Rugby 280dg for squaring.
You place it in "laydown" mode and the vertical laser shoots in one direction which you align to where you want.
Then rotation is commenced using the remote and the second line ascertained with the receiver which will be 100% 90 degree to the adjacent side.
A perfect right angle!
Don't know of any small cheap laser levels with this facility though.
You could use the 3:4:5 method. Hippotomas theorem.
 
Just a quick update, ended up buying a
Fukuda EK-234P

Has a dot laser projected below the device for alignment

Does 1 180 degree horizontal line and 4 vertical lines spaced exactly 90 degree apart.

Self levelling too, and you can switch between Horizontal On/Off + Vertical 2 line/ 4 line / Off (Which when on switches on the down point)

Works a treat for what I need it, simply measure the point on the far away surface, line it up, then measure back to the tangent and the base wall you want to build at 90 degree too.
 
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FWIW: why not cut a 1200mm x 1200mm corner from a sheet of 22mm ply, jig out two weight reducing cut-outs from the field, and you have a permanent perfect right angle if required.
 
We use a fold-away builders square for close at hand square checking, and as Norcon has said, use maths and lines for overall checking.

The 3-4-5 method is simple and based on pythagoras theorem i.e. the square root of 3² + 4² will give the hypotenuse of 5.

We do use a laser but more for levelling and lining-up.

4305_prev.jpg
 
Yeah noseall, it's a handy tool, but given the imbeciles that drift thro the building trades; my two cents is that it's too flimsy - likewise the laser, a brilliant device if kept accurate.
 
Actually Tim the Stanley one is quite robust. Because of the simplistic design, as long as it is 'clicked' it will remain accurate with little to go wrong to invalidate the accuracy.

You can also stand inside the square and view the work closely.

It is also easy to clean and unaffected by wet weather.

Ours is aboot 10 years old and is superb.
 
noseall, glad to hear that, esp. the notion of standing inside it - that's obviously well useful.
 
Why the over-eager preoccupation with absolute squareness?

Because I am building new walls inside an old (Squint) house, the longest of which will be 5 m long. All the existing walls are squint, and I want to base everything off an already rebuilt wall which is a compromise between all the rooms in that its not square with any corner, but just about inbetween.

There is a opening between this wall and where the new wall is being built, so I'd need a HUGE triangle (3m at least on one side) or some way of stabilising it and getting a builders line up against it and try to make that square, then tie that off somewhere as well, lots of faffing around when you can simply line up your laser, make some marks on the floor and walls around it and switch it on.

The exisiting walls are out 6 cm over a distance of 4 m.
When you come to tiling a bathroom, it will be very obvious that the room is squint. Likewise when you come to fitting corner units in a kitchen.

With this tool I can simply position the lines wherever I want them, and measure around (Including on the ceiling) and see if everything will meet up.

I need to fit a new chimney in a room which is 50cm wide, the old chimney was integrated into the old wall, sandwiched between two roofbeams.
Using the tool I was able to measure on the roof beams what space I have available if I place this wall at 90 degrees to the existing wall at X distance.
Turns out I have about 5cm play either side of the chimney between the roof beams and new wall, which is perfect.

I'm very happy with this as it does exactly what I need it to do.

Anyhow, I find it intriguing that near enough a month after I ask the question, get one answer, finally make up my mind and order an item, and receive it suddenly I get all this input..

Bit too late, the ship has sailed! :LOL:
 
Anyhow, I find it intriguing that near enough a month after I ask the question, get one answer, finally make up my mind and order an item, and receive it suddenly I get all this input..

Bit too late, the ship has sailed! :LOL:

Yeah sorry about that, missed this one! :oops:
 
You've got it now so I suppose it's academic. But why not just set out square at ground level with a tape measure and then spirit level as you build. i.e. like it's been done for donkeys years.
 
Because the wall is being built at the far away edge of the already existing wall, about 5m from the "new" wall I want it perpendicular to.

The wall is being built up in stages, I'm working with 4 acro props at a time, and want to move the roof beams onto the new wall before moving onwards dismantling the old wall whilst being supported by acro props.

Sure, if I was building right onto an existing wall I'd do it that way, but not when its over 4meters away.
 

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