Laying the bones for my extractor fan

[Beefcake daddy]

Hi again,

I've got my selv fan for my bathroom and am running the cables needed before the bathroom gets plastered and tiled up. I'll be getting a spark to do the connections as there's a couple of other jobs need doing anyway, never mind the part P ( I just want to check that what I put in is correct so that he won't have to make a mess pulling my cables out if I've got it wrong!

The fan is SELV timer version (timer part of transformer), double insuolated. I was planning on..

2 core flex from fan to transformer (in loft outside bathroom zones)
3 core + earth 1.5mm sq from transformer to triple pole isolator (in loft also)
3 core + earth to ceiling rose
2 core + earth to fan switch (outside bathroom)

This pic will expailn better I hope, if the little fella works that is!

Basically the light switch will give me my switched live for the fan only, I don't want it to come on everytime the lady takes a P in the night.
Triple will isolate fan when I want to clean it/adjust timer over run etc..

As I say, I'm not doing this myself, but need to put in the cables to the light switch and from the fan before I can get old sparky in to finish off.

Any advice much appreciated

ps just realised you can't see the yellow switched live, it comes from the right hand side of rose, so cables to left of rose are the 3 core + earth!

 

[Beefcake daddy]

Close up of rose, I've left the earths off for clarity...

 

[BJS_Spark]

All sounds very nice but why not check it over with your spark? If I was your spark I would want to check it out myself for the time it would take while quoting the rest of the job.

I am assuming that the ceiling rose shown is fed from the main light supply and is not the bathroom light rose? Why not use the isolator as the switch outside the bathroom and do away with the rose? Is your plan to switch the fan completely independent of the light?

 

[securespark]

Your DP switch is in fact SP.

 

[Beefcake daddy]

Aye, the rose will be fed from the bathroom light rose, so will be completely independent as you say. I thought originally that I'd use the isolator as the main switch but then realised the timer overrun function wouldn't work then as it would cut the live feed. Unless there's some other way I've not thought of!

You're right, it is only a SP switch needed but read somewhere on here that it's better to fit a DP and only use one set of terminals as the price difference is nowt and keeps it future proof....

Thanks for your quick responses guys, guess I'm not the only one sat indoors pretending to work on this fine sunny day!

 

[BJS_Spark]

Good point yes.

Proceed as before but you could use a four terminal junction box as an alternative to the rose if you so wish. It is not necessary but more common.

 

[Adam_151]

How about a grid system plate outside the bathroom containing a DP keyswitch, and a switch?

P.S. You can tell I'm excellent at art can't you?! , Probably why I'm trying to become a sparky as opposed to a graphic designer

 

[BJS_Spark]

If it were me I would wire it the standard way as breezer shows in the post from the 'for reference' on page one. The fan operates with the light and over-runs and when you want to interupt it (say at night) flick the isolator.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I don't want it to come on everytime the lady takes a P in the night.

Get one of these:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=25454&item=4389115502&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

 

[pdcelec]

but have you read the write up!

it doesn't take up any of the bathroom electrical sockets which always seem to be in short supply

 

[ban-all-sheds]

It's an American product - they have a more realistic attitude to sockets in the bathroom, not least that people do not take leave of their senses when presented with one and decide to balance a toaster on their knees whilst bathing so that they can snack at the same time, or use a hairdryer to blow toy boats about...

 

[securespark]

If it were me I would wire it the standard way as breezer shows in the post from the 'for reference' on page one. The fan operates with the light and over-runs and when you want to interupt it (say at night) flick the isolator.

Thinking about it, that's what I do. The iso is always accessible, so if the customer wants, they can knock off the fan and just have the light as normal.

 

[Beefcake daddy]

Jeeeez...wonder if that was invented by one of those yanks out there claiming they've been beemed up by little green men, obviously where his inspiration came from....

That all in one plate with key isolator looks canny, it would be nice to keep it all together - hadn't realised there were many options bar the TP rockers and pull cords, guess that's why I'm on here probing your minds.

Lit up toilets I don't know.....guess they'll have the same problem of plugging in when they try to heat the seats up without our traditional English fagging system...our overseas friends make me laugh! Wouldn't fancy P'ing into an electrified crapper meself, reminds me of video we had to watch at school of the guy who answered his call of nature on a sub station..

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Wouldn't fancy P'ing into an electrified crapper meself

It's battery operated.

But you're missing the point - it's not just illuminated - the light is green when the seat is down, and red when it's up, thus preventing SWMBO from landing on cold porcelain that's too large for her petite little ****...

 

[securespark]

For those unsure: She Who Must Be Obeyed........