Connecting a replacement bathroom extractor

[AndersonC]

I've got my IP44 fan to go in the hole in the wall. The wiring from the previous fan is ready to connect and............confusion.

The previous fan was a IP?? rated model with a timer built in. It had 3 core and earth cable feeding it via a triple (I think) pole isolating switch.

The new fan is an IP44 rated model without a timer. It appears from the instructions that this requires a different wiring configuration than a model with a timer.

The cable currently coming out of the wall at the "fan hole" comprises:-

An earth
A grey sleeved core with blue tape on it (assume N)
A brown sleeved core with no tape on it (assume permanent L)
A black sleeved core with brown tape on it (assume switched L)

This is switched by a triple (?) pole switch which sits outside the bathroom next to the light switch.

Examination of the wiring config in this large X-pole switch (the finger plate is nearly 2" wide!) shows 3-core and earth again with:-

A grey sleeved core with blue tape on it (assume N)
A brown sleeved core with no tape on it (assume permanent L)
A black sleeved core with brown tape on it (assume switched L)

These appear in the same locations on the "in" and "out" sides of the switch. Earth to switch back box.

Does this provide a reasonable picture of current wiring config?

The confusion is because:-

Wiring diagram in fan instructions only shows 2 wires going to the fan connection terminal - a live and neutral.
Vent Axia state that "the unit is double insulated (class II) and does not need an earth connection".

So which live do I connect to the fan? Black sleeve with brown tape or brown sleeve no tape? And what do I do with the earth where it comes out of the fan hole?

Hope this hasn't bored/confused anyone!!

 

[sealeon]

I would say your right brown permenent live black switched and grey neutral.Use the brown permanent live.Put the switch wire in a connector block and the earth in another connector block maybe do the same with switch wire in the isolator.Does the fan say it has a humidifyer[sorry bad spell]Not sure on the regs for bathroom fans though you shoukd check.

 

[AndersonC]

I've not noticed anything explicitly stating a humidifier is in it. It's a Vent Axia Silhouette 100 if this helps.

I'll disconnect all the switched lives relating to the fan and run it on the 'permanent' live which will be controlled by the isolator switch. This should then allow me to run the fan without the lights being on (which has been a pain the a*se in the past when I need the fan on but not the lights).

I assume that the switched live is spurred from the light ceiling rose, I will disconnect this too thus rendering the cables with black sleeving and brown tape on 'dead'. But I will leave the switched live going to the lights in place.

Does this make sense?

 

[sealeon]

I would think you would have a three core from your light to the isolator then a three core from there to your fan.I would just remove the switch wire from the isolator as there would be more wires in the light and less space for a connector block or crimp but you could do what you are saying just be more difficult you would only need to do one or the other though I would off thought

 

[GaryMo]

=Does the fan say it has a humidifyer[sorry bad spell]Not sure on the regs for bathroom fans though you shoukd check.

A humidifier in a bathroom wall fan? That would be a first!

You're probably referring to humidity control - fan automatically switches on when humidity rises about a set limit. There's no requirement for that feature in a bathroom, most fans with over-run timers will suffice.

 

[Taylortwocities]

I think Sealeon may be leading you down the garden path.

I assume you want the fan to come on when the light is on?

If so you need to connect the Neutral (grey sleeved core with blue tape on it) to the N connection on the fan

Connect the black sleeved core with brown tape on it (switched L) to the live connection on the fan.

You will need to isolate the permanent live (brown) The best place to do this is on the output side of the fan isolation switch.

I assume that your bathroom has an opening window, otherwise a timer fan is needed..

 

[GaryMo]

TTC, It sounds as if the OP is switching the fan with a fan isolator located by his bathroom light switch

This is switched by a triple (?) pole switch which sits outside the bathroom next to the light switch.

In that case, the permanent live would be required otherwise the fan would stop when the light was turned off. A fan with timer over-run would be a better answer though.

 

[sealeon]

=Does the fan say it has a humidifyer[sorry bad spell]Not sure on the regs for bathroom fans though you shoukd check.

A humidifier in a bathroom wall fan? That would be a first!

You're probably referring to humidity control - fan automatically switches on when humidity rises about a set limit. There's no requirement for that feature in a bathroom, most fans with over-run timers will suffice.

THANKS for putting that straight for me I knew what I meant just couldnt think what it was Was the rest of my answer ok though?

 

[sealeon]

From what I read he was changing the fan from one that was switch to one that was not therefore if it was switched it would only come on when the light was on then stop when the light was off.I would think as GaryMo said it has a humidity control.The guy said having it come on with the lights was a pain in the ... Thanks for keeping a check on me though

 

[sealeon]

This should then allow me to run the fan without the lights being on (which has been a pain the a*se in the past

 

[GaryMo]

A Silhouette 100 doesn't have humidity control unless he bought the 100H version. It's just a basic fan.

http://www.vent-axia.co.uk/products/domestic/silhouette-bathfans.asp

It sounds to me as though he intends to manually switch the fan by the 3 pole isolator he has situated beside his bathroom light switch.

Brown - L
Grey (sleeved blue) - N
Black (sleeved brown) - terminate to a connector block with no outgoing
CPC (sleeved g/y) - terminate to a connector block with no outgoing

The above is based on the assumption it was wired correctly in the first place.

 

[sealeon]

A Silhouette 100 doesn't have humidity control unless he bought the 100H version. It's just a basic fan.

http://www.vent-axia.co.uk/products/domestic/silhouette-bathfans.asp

It sounds to me as though he intends to manually switch the fan by the 3 pole isolator he has situated beside his bathroom light switch.

Brown - L
Grey (sleeved blue) - N
Black (sleeved brown) - terminate to a connector block with no outgoing
CPC (sleeved g/y) - terminate to a connector block with no outgoing

The above is based on the assumption it was wired correctly in the first place.

but it is the permanent live that needs to be connected not the switched live is that correct

 

[sealeon]

I think Sealeon may be leading you down the garden path.

I assume you want the fan to come on when the light is on?

Not if you read the question maybe

 

[GaryMo]

but it is the permanent live that needs to be connected not the switched live is that correct

Yes (brown should be permanent live), otherwise the fan would only operate with the light. The OP doesn't want that. He wants independent switching via his fan isolator.

 

[sealeon]

Thanks GaryMo the OP could of got confussed maybe by two contracting answers on reading this thats all I was concerned about and thanks for the watchful eye