Led spots + insulation

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Hi there

I want to have some led spots fitted to my bedroom. It has a loft space/ attic above. I know you can fit any fire rated one and just make sure there is no insulation next to it. But that would mean loads of the loft space wouldn't have insulation as there are quite a few spots, so I don't like this idea.

So my questions are

1) Do led spotlights actually give out enough heat to cause a fire?

2) If they do is there any other solution, like fitting a fire hood on?

Many thanks
 
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NO NO NO

You misunderstand the reason for fire-rated fittings.

They are not to stop themselves catching fire.

They are there to stop the passage of fire through what once was a fire barrier (the plasterboard ceiling) after you have turned it into Swiss cheese by drilling multiple 80mm holes in it.

Personally I wouldn't want searchlight burning my eyeballs when i look up at my bedroom ceiling. But maybe you'll bury your face in a pillow…?

At the moment you have nice cozy insulation in the ceiling that keeps your bedroom warm. So you plan have lights in the ceiling that will draw the heat through and into the roof space, also you'll need to clear a space about 100mm in radius round the downlights to comply with the makers instructions.

Did you really want to do this???

So, rant over, and back to your issue,

If you really must do it. Install THESE over each downlight site and then heap insulation back over the top.

PS Sleep well :eek:
 
NO NO NO

You misunderstand the reason for fire-rated fittings.

They are not to stop themselves catching fire.

They are there to stop the passage of fire through what once was a fire barrier (the plasterboard ceiling) after you have turned it into Swiss cheese by drilling multiple 80mm holes in it.

Personally I wouldn't want searchlight burning my eyeballs when i look up at my bedroom ceiling. But maybe you'll bury your face in a pillow…?

At the moment you have nice cozy insulation in the ceiling that keeps your bedroom warm. So you plan have lights in the ceiling that will draw the heat through and into the roof space, also you'll need to clear a space about 100mm in radius round the downlights to comply with the makers instructions.

Did you really want to do this???

So, rant over, and back to your issue,

If you really must do it. Install THESE over each downlight site and then heap insulation back over the top.

PS Sleep well :eek:


Hi Taylor

Many thanks for your reply, thanks for clearing up the 'fire rating' issue.

I like bright light, even in the bedroom, helps me find my little..... :LOL:

From the pics it's difficult to figure out how that fireguard loft brace works. Does it give the spot adequate ventilation but allow me to cover it fully with insulation?

Many thanks for your help
 
I forgot to ask, with this loft brace can I still overboard with chipboard so the loft space is suitable for storage?

Many thanks
 
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Have a look at the thread about LEDs in bathrooms - the link to a suitable spot might answer your questions.
 
Have a look at the thread about LEDs in bathrooms - the link to a suitable spot might answer your questions.


Thanks, I took a look at that thread but I think the situation there is a bit different?

Anyway, my local electrical supplier keeps these on the shelf

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Product...dge vfrdg10c&gclid=CMX3nYn657sCFY_MtAodDi0A_g

With these bulbs suggested

http://www.thelightbulbshop.co.uk/D...cedGU10.aspx?gclid=COLAodb657sCFYrpwgod00cAoA


Do the more expensive Aurora integrated units really provide any sort of advantage?

Many thanks
 
Do the more expensive Aurora integrated units really provide any sort of advantage?
Not that manufacturer specifically, but YES there is a distinct advantage to buying something that's designed to be LED.
If you buy a random downlighter, and then fit some random LED bulb - you are fitting a bulb that's compromised by having to fit within the constraints of the lamp fitting. That means it's one or more of the following :
1) Has inadequate cooling due to lack of space for the required heatsinking - and therefore will have crap reliability
2) Has "poor output" due to restricting power to avoid 1
3) Has a bulb that doesn't fit the fitting because it's a lot lot longer to deal with 1
4) As a result of 2 or 3, it looks crap (well more crap than downlighters normally do)

If you buy a fitting that's been designed form the outset as an LED downlighter, then the extra flexibility means they can design for a decent light output while properly managing the thermal issues.

But also note that it is absolutely not true that LEDs don't produce heat or that they can be covered in insulation. They do produce heat - just a lot less than an equivalent incandescent version. What's more, they are more sensitive to temperature (both the electronics and the LED chip itself) and so need keeping cooler than an equivalent incandescent fitting.
So check the manufacturer's instructions and follow them.


BTW - my mate has used quite a few of the Haler H2 fittings in his bungalow (some dimmable, some not). While I'm still not a fan of downlighters, they aren't as bad as I expected.
 

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