Light Switch OCD...

[christianbeccy]

I have a double-box and need a 3-gang switch.

I ideally need switches that have a neutral on/off position, so you can't tell from looking if they're on or off. So, touch-screen, push button, or push to make/break. The lights are non-dimmable, so that doesn't help.

I currently have the Varilight Impulse switches at the moment. They're utter rubbish.

Grid would be OK. Can anyone help?

 

[securespark]

Why are they rubbish, in your opinion?
They appear to fulfill your brief.
What don't they do that you'd like them to do?
PTM switches generally have rockers so return to the up position.
What are they controlling?

You could use MD9001 with a MD150 dimmer mounting kit and plate of your choice:

https://www.electrical2go.co.uk/index.php/downloads/dl/file/id/314/click_minigrid_catalogue.pdf

 

[securespark]

So what you would have is a 426 plate (6 modules because each dimmer mounting kit is 2 mods wide) with 3 x MD9001 fitted using dimmer module mounting kit MD150 x 3.

Obviously they come in different finishes, so you would have to choose.

Alternatively, Scolmore do a limited range of unfurnished 2 gang dimmer plates with 3 holes: white plastic, brushed steel, polished steel and stainless into which you would fit the MD9001.

You need to be careful about the depth of these switch assemblies. You will need to make sure whatever you fit is not too deep for the existing box.

 

[christianbeccy]

Why are they rubbish, in your opinion?
They appear to fulfill your brief.
What don't they do that you'd like them to do?
PTM switches generally have rockers so return to the up position.
What are they controlling?

You could use MD9001 with a MD150 dimmer mounting kit and plate of your choice:

https://www.electrical2go.co.uk/index.php/downloads/dl/file/id/314/click_minigrid_catalogue.pdf

The Varilight switches fulfil the brief perfectly in everything except their quality. The switches are awful. The mechanism isn't nice at all and doesn't offer a 'positive' switch action. Even to the point that you can hear a brief 'spark' as you press the switch, particularly if you catch it off centre, where the button will jam under the face-plate. I have 14 JCC LED7's and I worry that they are at risk from the poor quality switch.

I have the main Kitchen lights, some over-island fill-in lights and plinth lights as 3 separate circuits. The plinth lights are on pretty much all the time, hence not wanting the appearance of 2 switches off and one on etc. I know it's petty, but it just one of those things that grates on me.

I've seen PTM and PTB switches, but these appear to only help with momentary use. (i.e. for a doorbell or similar). It's that style I need, but ideally where one press makes the circuit and a further press breaks it.

That MD9001 solution looks promising. Thanks! I'll go check it out...

 

[christianbeccy]

You need to be careful about the depth of these switch assemblies. You will need to make sure whatever you fit is not too deep for the existing box.

Yes, against the good advice of my Sparkie, who told me to fit deep boxes wherever possible, I settled for a 25mm deep box here, which I know will cause issues. I'll swap the box if I have to, it was my c'ock up.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

On the grounds that "you never know", and changes afterwards can be very difficult, then if the walls can take it I'd always advise fitting the deepest boxes you can lay hands on.

 

[christianbeccy]

On the grounds that "you never know", and changes afterwards can be very difficult, then if the walls can take it I'd always advise fitting the deepest boxes you can lay hands on.

Yes, I now know that. The wall was VERY hard (flettons), so I just took the easy route and we all know what that can lead to. PAIN!

 

[oldbutnotdead]

If you've got room and the circuit arrangements work you could look at impulse relays (I bought a load about 20 years ago dirt cheap from Bull in Southampton, very handy if you have hall or staircase lights that need switching from many locations)

 

[securespark]

I have PTM switches in the kids' bedrooms, on 24V, running 12V LED lamps.
It was done for safety: ELV and cool lamps.
But you do get a clunk from the relay every time!

 

[SUNRAY]

If you've got room and the circuit arrangements work you could look at impulse relays (I bought a load about 20 years ago dirt cheap from Bull in Southampton, very handy if you have hall or staircase lights that need switching from many locations)

Sadly no longer there

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Sadly no longer there

Boo, did wonder if they'd survived the internet. Remember being very tempted by the targeting laser from a Chieftain tank- no idea what I'd have done with it, was a bit dear at £300. Still got some 4km spools of 4 core antitank missile guidance wire I'll find a use for one day.....

 

[SUNRAY]

Boo, did wonder if they'd survived the internet. Remember being very tempted by the targeting laser from a Chieftain tank- no idea what I'd have done with it, was a bit dear at £300. Still got some 4km spools of 4 core antitank missile guidance wire I'll find a use for one day.....

Funny that, I needed 10x500m of 4 core flex for a contract and I got 2 of those. BOOM

I think there is still some presence (a post on a different site) but I have not found them yet.