Light switch to control mains socket?

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Hi all,

I have some 12V led lights running in my skirting which are plugged into a 13A spur socket using a plugged transformer. I also have some Catry light switches in the room which use a remote control to turn my ceiling lights on/off.

As the Catry switches are designed as light switches is it feasible and safe to get an additional Catry switch installed inline with the spur socket to effectively control its power and turn the led lights on/off?

Here is the technical spec for the Catry switches:

Rated Voltage: 220~240V AC, Frequency: 50/60Hz / Capability allowance: -15%~+10% 187~264V / Operating Power: 2 Gang (7-1500W, each gang <750W) / Working Environment: Working Temperature: 0oC~40oC Relative Humidity: 10% - 93% (No grumous) / Energy Consumption: <0.02W / Measurement: 86x86mm / 123x77mm / life: 100,000 times at least (relay useful life) Remote usage distance >20M * Power: < 0.1mW

The simple way would be to purchase a RF socket adapter, however this would mean having another remote control to add to the collection when an additional Catry switch would allow me to utilise the spare buttons on my current Catry remote.

Any advice appreciated.

Thanks.
 
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I'm assuming this cantry system dopes not dim?... in that case...You should be able to use a suitably rated contactor to switch the sokcet outlet from it, ensure you fuse down the cantry/coil side appropiatly... such a arrangement is likely to cost more than an el-cheapo remote adapter.. its upto you how much you think lack of remote control clutter is worth... :LOL:
 
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Why much about with contactors? Change the 13A socket to a fused connection unit fitted with 3A fuse, feed the Catry remote switch from the load side, and terminate the output into a 13A socket for the transformer to plug into. Simples.
 
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Sorry, I read that as a max load of 150w not 1500w, and pictured some tiny PCB mounted relay with 1A contacts (de-rated on spec for possible reactive loads) :oops:
 
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Sorry, I read that as a max load of 150w not 1500w, and pictured some tiny PCB mounted relay with 1A contacts (de-rated on spec for possible reactive loads) :oops:

You also managed to write 'dopes' instead of does and 'cantry' instead of 'Catry'. Have you been drinking, Adam?!
 
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Thanks for the replies guys.

So to clarify the suggestion is thus:

Current wiring:

13A Spur socket ---> lights

Replace with:

3A FCU (old 13A spur) --> Catry Switch --> new 13A Socket --> lights.


Correct?
 
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You also managed to write 'dopes' instead of does and 'cantry' instead of 'Catry'. Have you been drinking, Adam?!

Not since yesterday evening!
 

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