Lighting (first fix) T&E to flex / outlet plate

[Diggory]

I’m having some lights installed in a kitchen.

So far only the first fix is in - I’ve got T+E popping out through plasterboard in roughly the right areas.
I need to get some surface mounted wires up onto a couple of beams where it would be easier to install white round 0.75mm flex.
Once on top of the beam, they’ll be out of sight - but there will be maybe 12” or so visible to get the flex up there from first fix point.
I’m wondering about fitting dry lining back-boxes to conceal the (Wago) termination of the T+E to flex.
Then run the flex out through a flex outlet plate - but I can’t find anything suitable.
I could use a Coax plate (with the Coax guts removed).
What’s the best way to do this safely and neatly.

Thanks D

 

[pete01]

Why not a flex outlet plate as you said?

20A Flex Outlet Plate - Matt White | Knightsbridge (SF8342MW)

 

[EFLImpudence]

Flex-outlet plates have connectors in them -

and you can get ones where the flex exits from the edge.

 

[Diggory]

Thank you @pete01 and @EFLImpudence - it didn’t occur to me to use the connections already provided in a flex-outlet plate.
I was thinking only about the plate to conceal the Wago terminations / neat transition to flex but what you’ve suggested is better.

I’ll look again and see what I can find at Screwfix / Toolstation.

Thanks D

 

[Sureitsoff?]

Some blank plates have thick edges that can allow a cable to exit via a suitably filed slot. ( I have done it to allow speaker cables to exit using architrave plates) ie

https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/1088355-1-gang-architrave-blank-plate-white?srsltid=AfmBOooy2mh1xOamrHlGvNBZCQ2bMtvHTRMQiHI_x0KkZvmBK-I-V-A7kfQ

 

[Diggory]

Thank you @Sureitsoff? - I’ll have a look for those too.

Regards D

 

[Diggory]

After I’ve transitioned the first fix T&E to a white 0.75 heat resistant flex, I need to tidily run it maybe 300mm to the top of an exposed beam.
I’ll run it along the top of beam maybe a metre where I plan to have a single 6W LED GU10 light.
In the event I need to ‘daisy chain’ another light (or even two) from the first light - would this be okay ?
The ‘daisy chain’ legs would be no more than a metre each.
Thanks D

 

[Sureitsoff?]

That's fine. You could actually run dozens of 6w LEDs from that cable.

 

[Diggory]

Thank you - @Sureitsoff?
I’m using them for task lighting over a (kitchen) worktop.
Good to know I’ve got some flexibility to add.

Best D

 

[Diggory]

Further to original post and helpful advice (@Sureitsoff?, @pete01 & @EFLImpudence), I’ve cut in three back boxes to my plaster board on stud wall. I’ve made small vertical drop channels of about 65mm to feed the First fix T&E down into each box so my electrician can fit / wire the flex-outlet plates and wire up the lights.

I’ll pop a small section of plastic cable protector in channel, over the T&E then fill it level. Would I need to worry about clipping such a short 65mm drop before I fill it ?

Thanks D

 

[EFLImpudence]

I’ll pop a small section of plastic cable protector in channel, over the T&E then fill it level.

It's not really a protector - just a guide and/or a holder.

Would I need to worry about clipping such a short 65mm drop before I fill it ?

Not if it or just the cable will stay in place without clipping.

 

[Diggory]

Thank you @EFLImpudence. I think with the ‘cable guide’ and then some filler - it won’t go far.

Thanks D

 

[EFLImpudence]

 

[ebee]

I’ll pop a small section of plastic cable protector in channel, over the T&E then fill it level.

It's not really a protector - just a guide and/or a holder.

Agreed, the only protection you might have using capping whether metal or plastic before plastering is from the plasterer`s trowel or a slight protection from accidental damage by others.
I usually took care of my own plastering but if not I only worked with plasterers and other trades who would use due diligence in all things and would expect the same from me.

Members of the public - well that is something else