Lighting help

[sh4d0w]

Hi All,

I am currently prepping the new office for plastering, I have ripped the old ceiling down and ive ran a new loop of 1.5 T&E ready for the new downlights, I have created a loop in the cable approx. where each light will be going, I don’t have access from the floor above as it’s a tiled bathroom floor so I need to ensure all works is done before I have the plaster do his thang. I want to know the best way of wiring up the loop… In the centre of the room is the existing lamp holder with two feeds in.

I guess ill need to change this to a JB and connect the new loop into that? if this is right shall I do this before the boarding goes up and just hang it loose through a hole where a spot will go? There is no natural light in this room so we need something 

Summary: What is the full process of wiring up a loop for downlights in a new ceiling, will be having 6 lights.

 

[Chri5]

Provide LNE to point of loop with switch wire, normal first position.

At this point you have your switch wire and the first part of the loop. From here you fed on to the next, from there the next (and on).

 

[winston1]

And easier if you use 1.0mm cable which is all that is required.

 

[danswift]

Daisy chain your downlights from the ceiling rose to whatever locations you want, make a detailed joist/cable plan AND DON'T LOSE IT

Change the ceiling rose to a JB, you can use a pattress and blank plate with connector blocks if it's easier. You will need to connect the first loop of your downlights into the switch wire, and then put connector blocks on the other end so you can switch back on while other work is on-going.

Board the ceiling.

Use your joist plan and a laser level or chalk line to mark out the lights. Drill the holes with a holesaw (usually around 60--70mm but check the fitting instructions and test fit onto a loose bit of plasterboard, if you make the holes too big it's game over).

Once the holes are drilled and you have found your cables you can pink the ceiling. If you pink the ceiling first you have a higher chance of hitting a joist when drilling the spots, at least when it's just boarded you can see the screw heads/joist location.

Done hundreds of them, just take your time and it's a doddle.

 

[Belboz]

Change the ceiling rose to a JB, you can use a pattress and blank plate with connector blocks if it's easier. You will need to connect the first loop of your downlights into the switch wire, and then put connector blocks on the other end so you can switch back on while other work is on-going.

Seriously???

 

[Taylortwocities]

If the existing light position is not going to be a light point, then you must use a Maintenance-Free Junction box.
You should not just join the cables up in a screw terminal box and lose it above the soon-to-be-plastered ceiling!

 

[RF Lighting]

Better still to pull the existing wires back to the position of the first downlight.

 

[sh4d0w]

Thanks to all.
I managed to get the existing cables back a spotlight and just used that as my first light, daisy changed the rest and marked up the ceiling, as it happens i didnt even think to use my laser and just did it by hand with a tape, would have saved sooooo much time if i used the laser. FFS.

 

[danswift]

Change the ceiling rose to a JB, you can use a pattress and blank plate with connector blocks if it's easier. You will need to connect the first loop of your downlights into the switch wire, and then put connector blocks on the other end so you can switch back on while other work is on-going.

Seriously???

What's the problem?

 

[ericmark]

Change the ceiling rose to a JB, you can use a pattress and blank plate with connector blocks if it's easier. You will need to connect the first loop of your downlights into the switch wire, and then put connector blocks on the other end so you can switch back on while other work is on-going.

Seriously???

What's the problem?

The ceiling space will not be accessible so you should not use anything with screws as you can't access them to re-tighten every 10 years when the inspection is done. Although on the windy island of Mon you may not have any building which vibrate in the wind that is not reflected in the rest of the UK.

It would seem in the rest of the UK when doing the EICR they actually do check the terminals for tightness. Or at least they claim they do.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It would seem in the rest of the UK when doing the EICR they actually do check the terminals for tightness.

If they are inaccessible (within limits of extent) you wouldn't.

 

[danswift]

The ceiling space will not be accessible so you should not use anything with screws as you can't access them to re-tighten every 10 years when the inspection is done. Although on the windy island of Mon you may not have any building which vibrate in the wind that is not reflected in the rest of the UK.

It would seem in the rest of the UK when doing the EICR they actually do check the terminals for tightness. Or at least they claim they do.

Ok I can see his point, in that case I would probably say 80% of the houses in the UK are dangerous . We have always used JB's in lofts and under floorboards, but would never bury one in a wall.

And as usual the wiring regulations are vague on what is and what isn't accessible. Where do you stop? It's just as easy to lift a floorboard with 2 screws to access a JB as it is to open a pattress with 2 screws and access a block of connectors.

Do the wiring regulations define what is accessible or not? because as far as I know they don't.

 

[Taylortwocities]

The practical issue with terminal blocks under floorboards, etc is that nobody knows that they are there. The installer + householder at the time may know the location, but houses change hands.
New householders(s) lay carpet, laminate flooring, etc - your original handy access hatch disappears, and the termination point is no longer accessible and can be a potential failure point.

I have had several instances where the continuity of one conductor of a ring final has failed an inspection. Every socket etc on the ring has been removed but no loose conductors can be found. A day or two of ripping up carpets and chipboard flooring to reveal the rogue connection proves to be expensive and disruptive.