lockshield value leaking?

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Depending on type it may only require tightening the hex nut just enough to stop the leak. Quite a common fault.
 
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Unfortunately, that valve does not have the type of nut I was referring to.
Two choices here:-
1 If it does not leak when back on, leave it.
2 Fit a new valve.
 
Unfortunately, that valve does not have the type of nut I was referring to.
Two choices here:-
1 If it does not leak when back on, leave it.
2 Fit a new valve.

Thanks very much for your reply. If it does need replacing is this something I ( a layman ) could do or would I need to get a plumber in? The boiler is a viessmann condensing boiler. Cheers
 
Its fairly easy, but depends on whether your system is sealed or open vented as to the method used. Is that on the ground or 1st floor.
 
Its fairly easy, but depends on whether your system is sealed or open vented as to the method used. Is that on the ground or 1st floor.

I assume by open system you mean a tank in the loft feeding the radiators? If so, then its a sealed system i.e. a drop in pressure requires topping it up via a tap underneath the boiler.

The radiator in question is in the front bedroom ( upstairs ) and the boiler is downstairs.

Kind regards
 
It's fairly straightforward. Depressurise and partly drain your system via a suitable drain cock. Open a rad bleed screw to allow easier draining. Check that its drained below your valve (just open the valve with a container underneath) Once drained enough, close drain cock and using 2 pairs of grips remove the old valve from the copper and fit a new one. You will probably be able to re use the existing nut and olive, if not carefully cut across the olive, split and remove it from the pipe and fit all new. Refill, repressurise and vent your system. Inhibitor can be added to the rad once refitted to the system.
Pros would simply change the valve by removing pressure and closing auto air vents and simply swapping valve quickly, but this takes practice.
Have everything ready to hand prior to starting work.
 
It's fairly straightforward. Depressurise and partly drain your system via a suitable drain cock. Open a rad bleed screw to allow easier draining. Check that its drained below your valve (just open the valve with a container underneath) Once drained enough, close drain cock and using 2 pairs of grips remove the old valve from the copper and fit a new one. You will probably be able to re use the existing nut and olive, if not carefully cut across the olive, split and remove it from the pipe and fit all new. Refill, repressurise and vent your system. Inhibitor can be added to the rad once refitted to the system.
Pros would simply change the valve by removing pressure and closing auto air vents and simply swapping valve quickly, but this takes practice.
Have everything ready to hand prior to starting work.

Thanks very much for your reply. As a guestimate, how much would a plumber charge for doing this? ;)
 
£75 ish. He would also(I hope) replace lost inhibitor and that should include a decent valve. That's what I would charge and of course there are differences across the country. Would be about 30 mins work.
 
Be brave do it yourself .... Open the rad valve into a bucket to remove pressure even without closing appliance isolating valves or auto air vent there will be only a bucket full before it goes to a trickle or even stop then just put a new valve on.
 

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