Looking for a router.......

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That will mount under one of these....

Charnwood W012 Bench Top Router Table - White : AmazonSmile: DIY & Tools

At the moment I have my plunge router rigged up and the trigger switch kept closed with a cable tie and then fed through a NV on-off switch mounted on the side. Not ideal but serviceable however, my main problem is setting the cutter height. I basically have to lean on the table as I push the router upwards from below and then try to lock it into position without it moving. I usually get my wife to give me a hand but thats not always feasible if she is busy and I am changing cutters often.

Anyone got any recommendations for a suitable router that can be simply slid up to the correct height without having to press against any springs? I don't do any 'heavy' routering so think a 1/4" will suffice but willing to consider 1/2" and maybe change/modify the bed plate on the table.

Current router is a MacAllister 1/4" and has been suitable for things I've done so far.
 
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Have you looked for one that can be adjusted from above the table? Skip to 1:45....

 
Trend T5 or alike:

Trend T5 (2).jpg


or a Trend T4:

Trend T4.jpg


with a Trend vertical height adjuster, one of these (this is the one for the T5 - Trend do others for different routers):

Trend FHA Height Adjuster (2).jpg


They replace the depth flag and screw into the top of the depth stop turret to turn your plunge router into a screw adjustment router, for use in a table. Readily available in the UK with spares available (the T5 is fundamentally a deWalt DW615/Perles OF808e/Virutex)
 
Another vote here for a trend T5. I've also had satisfactory results using a cheap ebay "lab jack". nice little things!

Nozzle
 
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Yes, I was going to mention the other way - using a car jack beneath the router to effect a rise and fall, but the lab jack is far more appropriate

Lab Jack.jpg


This is an example of the car jack:

 
T5 and fine adjusting handle now on order.
Thanks JobAndKnock.
 
My T5 arrived today, (along with the fine adjuster I ordered), and it looks the bees knees!
Can't wait to get it in the shed at the weekend and have a play with it.
Thanks for the recommendation JAK. :D
 
its worth mentioning that you can remove the plunge springs, this will remove about 60% off the weight/resistance required to raise the router from under a table as the springs not only equal the body weight but a bit more to raise the machine quickly to the safe raised position in normal use
if you do this it can add to chatter and slack in the mechanism but this can be reduced by using the plunge lock albeit under a table
 
its worth mentioning that you can remove the plunge springs, this will remove about 60% off the weight/resistance required to raise the router from under a table as the springs not only equal the body weight but a bit more to raise the machine quickly to the safe raised position in normal use
if you do this it can add to chatter and slack in the mechanism but this can be reduced by using the plunge lock albeit under a table
The T5, like the deWalt DW615 it is based on, and the original Elu MOF96 that was the origin of both, has one spring (it's actually a fairly light and compact router and doesn't need two). It can be a pain to remove and replace because you need to strip the top of the router off to get at the fastenings. Once you've got the spring out there is no way you can take the router our of the table and use it hand held without reversing the process. In any case with the Trend fine height adjuster there really isn't any need to faff around doing this as the adjuster allows you to wind the router up and down readily against the spring which also means no chatter whatsoever, although it is advisable to lock off the rise and fall when running the router to prevent vibration causing the depth to change (which is no different from any other router in a table)

I still have an old Elu MOF96e (currently in bits, see below) with the little Elu miniature router table and I have never had any need to "despring" the router when used under the table with the fine adjuster. Here is the column and spring from my MOF96e, which is the same arrangement as the T5, albeit over 30 years older than Conny's tool, note the single spring:

Elu MOF96 Base.jpg
 
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Thanks guys. Have to admit I tried a few test plunges last night, (without it plugged in/running), and was mildly surprised how light it was to push down compared to my MacAllister one which I assume has double springs so I won't be taking it apart any time soon. Tried the fine adjuster and it's perfect, just the sort of thing I need. I also like the idea of the edge cheeks to increase the length of the edge bar. So many other edge gauges have a small length it's easy to 'turn' the corner when you get across the full width of the work piece.
 
I've always had a soft spot for the old Elu MOF96 and the family of routers which it spawned, possibly because a pale blue MOF96 was my first plunge router and a revelation after having used a Stanley fixed-base router for a while. That was bought in the mid-1970s before Elu went to their silver/grey/orange livery and I still have it

One thing I will say to the OP - the design allows collets in 6mm, 6.35mm (1/4in) and 8mm. If you find yourself doing a lot of heavier cuts get hold of 8mm shank cutters if you can and an 8mm collet (not sure if they come with one any more). 8mm shanks have about 60% more metal in them than 1/4in shanks, so they are a lot stronger and less likely to bend if you push them too hard (I've bent or broken a few 1/4in shank bits over the years - never done that with an 8mm shank bit). If you are looking for 8mm cutters, one firm I'd strongly recommend is Wealden Tool - no affiliation, just a satisfied customer who's been using them for about 20 years. Good quality bits, mostly delivered next day (Rotal Mail allowing), and they are cheaper than Trend but far better quality than Chinese bits.
 
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Gutted! Just been for a play with my new toy and it's got a problem.
I cut 2 test slots in a piece of 9mm ply using a 1/4" slot cutter and had no problem. Spent the next hour marking out a piece of same ply for a board game to hold the various pieces when playing. Cut the first slot, 120mm long and then got half way along the second slot when the machine died. :( Took it away from the project and switched on and let it get up to speed then it just died again. Tried all different speeds but it still happens. When it dies it continues to spin but at very, very slow speed. Phoned Trend but they aren't open until 8.30 Monday. Suspect it's something to do with a faulty thermal contact so looks like it will be going back after I retrieve the box from the recycle bin in work. :(:(:(
 
are you cutting in multiple passes off say 3-4mm deep per pass to full depth??
 
heavier cuts get hold of 8mm shank cutters if you can and an 8mm collet (not sure if they come with one any more). 8mm shanks have about 60% more metal in them than 1/4in shanks, so they are a lot stronger and less likely to bend if you push them too hard (I've bent or broken a few 1/4in shank bits over the years - never done that with an 8mm shank bit). If you are looking for 8mm cutters, one firm I'd strongly recommend is Wealden Tool - no affiliation, just a satisfied customer who's been using them for about 20 years. Good quality bits, mostly delivered next day (Rotal Mail allowing)

mirrors my thoughts exactly

when I had my joinery shop I had around 4 1/4" dewalt router / Elu and I set them up with 8mm collets -we had a router set up for each common task

I starter buying from Wealdon for over 20 years -and a few hundred orders -router, spindle, morticer
 
When it dies it continues to spin but at very, very slow speed.
That's odd for a new tool, doesn't dound like the speed controller, more like the brushes, perhaps? Really sorry to hear that it's let you down. Now I feel a bit embarassed at having recommended it. :oops: All I can say is that Trend stuff is normally pretty decent
 

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