Loud vibration when taps are on.

[Orlando]

Any idea what this loud vibration is? Its coming from the loft obviously must be the tank, its got worse past few months, does it when ever you run a tap, could it be anything to do with the toilet flush?

 

[grrinc]

If it is only just developing, then it could be muck has made itself into the float valve up stairs and causing the valve to 'trumpet' when it reaches a certain point ( usually when the filling is coming to an end ). You could open it up and clean it out, but seeing as they are only about 8 quid, buy a new one and stick it in.

If you have had any noises like that for along time, then clip some of the pipes down too, sounds like water hammer.

 

[Orlando]

Is it easy to do though, do you have to drain the tank? and do you buy the whole float valve? im a complete novice at this, it has been noisy for about 6 months now.

 

[grrinc]

You dont have to drain the tank, just isolate it. If you cant find a local service valve for it then turn the whole house of. If you are a novice, then changing it for a new one would be easier. Servicing them can be a pain, especially if the they are all scaled up.

Hold on to the main body with a set of grips and undo the nut that connects the pipe to the valve just out side the tank. Then undo the two retaining nuts that keep the valve secured to the tank, paying attention to a reddish coloured washer that seals the two together, this is a fibre washer and should be replaced for a new one. Take the valve to the local plumbers merchant and get them to sort out a new one and grab some PTFE and a new fibre washer whilst you are there. The floats are often sold seperately - buy a new one for a quid or so or use the old one.

Assemble that lot back together but wrap a bit of PTFE tape around the thread before doing up the nut - just to be on the safe side. Dont over tighten and slowly put the water back on. Keep an eye on the fitting for a bit just in case it needs an extra pinch with the spanner. Remember also, that the mains will be at full pressure when the tank is full and at night too when the local demand is a less. So check the valve in the morning too. This may seem overkill but a bit of caution doesnt hurt.

 

[ollski]

Personally I would say undo the brass nut just inside the tank and swap like for like with the new valve....no point risking a leak outside the tank.

 

[Agile]

When they fit I agree thats an easier thing to do.

However, whenever the client looks able to get into the loft I always change the whole valve because anything less looks like a bodge!

Tony

 

[Softus]

It is most amusing that Agile considers it professional to take a short cut when the customer "looks" physically unable to get into the loft and examine his workmanship.

 

[ollski]

It is most amusing that Agile considers it professional to take a short cut when the customer "looks" physically unable to get into the loft and examine his workmanship.

I wouldn't consider it a short cut, I explain I don't want to pointlessly risk a leak through the ceiling and the connector isn't part of the valve....wouldn't change a non faulty part on a boiler for no reason.....why do it on a tank?

 

[Softus]

I wouldn't consider it a short cut, I explain I don't want to pointlessly risk a leak through the ceiling and the connector isn't part of the valve....wouldn't change a non faulty part on a boiler for no reason.....why do it on a tank?

Nor would I ollski - whenever it's physically possible I leave the outer water connection intact and just change the valve body - it's also about 3 times quicker.

My comment was supposed to point out the hypocrisy in Agile's policy of changing the whole valve (i.e. creating work and risking a leak) merely to look impressive.

 

[Nige F]

Gotta go with Ols. and Soft.on this one.........and a Part 2 every time