Loud Vibrating from water tank

[diyplumber1980]

Hello all

Does anyone know why a very loud vibrating noice is happening in the pipeworks and water tank when we turn on the hot water? Its really loud and the pipes throughout the house seem to vibrate as if they are going to explode! It only happens when hot water is turned on. Cold water is fine. This has been happening for a few days and seems to be getting worse.

Do the pipes need tightening as they enter the water cylinder/tank?Or is this a job for the professionals?

 

[Armo74]

You need a new ballcock in your cold water tank above your hot water cylinder. You could also do with clipping the pipes if you can get to them.

 

[onecog]

It is probably the ball cock in the cold water tank in the loft or wherever the tank is.
The next time you here the noise put your hand on the ball cock and see if the noise stops.It could be the pipework but most likely as above.

 

[HERTS P&D]

I'm going for a faulty ball cock.

Andy

 

[diyplumber1980]

its the cold water pipe as it enters the water cylinder, i've added two pics above. The noise stops as soon was the water in the tank/cylinder reaches the full level. Their is a little black square box in the airing cupboard also, i think this may be the expansion tank? The noise is not coming from there. Its coming from the green tank in the picture, or appears to be caused by something happening inside there.

you see the stop cock on pipe thats entering the tank, when that noise is happening, i turned off that stop cock and the noise stopped. Then i opened it a little, and noise started, but wasnt very loud. The more i opened it, the louder the noise and vibrating got. It only stops when the water in tank was full.

Untitled

• diyplumber1980
• 29 Apr 2013
• 1

Untitled

• diyplumber1980
• 29 Apr 2013
• 1

 

[diyplumber1980]

It is probably the ball cock in the cold water tank in the loft or wherever the tank is.
The next time you here the noise put your hand on the ball cock and see if the noise stops.It could be the pipework but most likely as above.

thanks for the reply. I'll try this later. If it is the ballcock, is their a particular type i need to by or are they all the same?

 

[HERTS P&D]

This one:

http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-prestex-float-valve-part-2/27627

Andy

 

[diyplumber1980]

thanks for the link. This may seem a silly question but the link you sent says that its "Part 2". There is also a Part 1 valve. Whats the differenc ebetween the two?

 

[diyplumber1980]

Thanks Andy

Fit this yesteday and its solved the problem!

 

[HERTS P&D]

It's always good to here the out come of advice given.

Andy

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Will try and explain the (not silly) question. Part 1 valve is only permitted as a direct replacement for a part 1 valve, illegal to fit in any other circumstances. (Certain circumstances may not permit a part 2 valve to be fitted due to extra height of valve.)

Part 2 has the top mounted outlet, assuming valve and overflow are fitted correctly, this allows an air break between the outlet from the valve and maximum water level in the cistern. In the event of a fault in the supply there is the potential for water to be siphoned back, providing an air break would prevent water from a storage cistern possibly being drawn back into the mains (drinking water) supply.

Same reasoning is behind double check valves on outside taps, rings on shower rails to prevent shower head being left in a bath full of water, etc.

 

[diyplumber1980]

Will try and explain the (not silly) question. Part 1 valve is only permitted as a direct replacement for a part 1 valve, illegal to fit in any other circumstances. (Certain circumstances may not permit a part 2 valve to be fitted due to extra height of valve.)

Part 2 has the top mounted outlet, assuming valve and overflow are fitted correctly, this allows an air break between the outlet from the valve and maximum water level in the cistern. In the event of a fault in the supply there is the potential for water to be siphoned back, providing an air break would prevent water from a storage cistern possibly being drawn back into the mains (drinking water) supply.

Same reasoning is behind double check valves on outside taps, rings on shower rails to prevent shower head being left in a bath full of water, etc.

Thanks for the explanation! its amazing how little things the average person probably doesnt even notice, is purposely designed to prevent certain problems etc. I had no idea about air breaks/gaps etc in Cisterns.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Come across a few, with a part 1 (used to be known as a 'Portsmouth' type valve), where valve had failed and was completely submerged below the water level. Given a lot of cisterns are full of crud, (not unknown to find dead birds in a loft cistern....), then any back siphonage into the water supply could easily contaminate the supply. Similarly, garden hose topping up a fishpond, should fault conditions occur, the double check valve prevents any back siphonage from the pond.

 

[Charnwood]

A true Portsmouth pattern valve is different to a pt 1.
A Portsmouth had nocapnut to give access to the piston. The pt 1 does

Google Images - pegler 855

 

[Nige F]

Are you sure that`s not a Croydon you`re describing