Indeed with the other guys I work with could probably muster a couple of thousand such adapter cables of all denominations, 5A 13A, 15A, ceeform, 10A IEC, shuko etc.
LSF / LSOH Twin & Earth
- Thread starter Click-Sure
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Indeed with the other guys I work with could probably muster a couple of thousand such adapter cables of all denominations, 5A 13A, 15A, ceeform, 10A IEC, shuko etc.
Sounds feasible to me, at the end of the day all I'm really interested in is what works and what causes me problems.
13A plugs are not unreliable, they are just not suited to theatres.
There are millions and millions in constant use in the UK, and they are not all bursting into flames left right and centre.
Granted I don't have as many years experience as you, but I do install stage lighting for a living, and work in professional and amature theatre aswell.
I have seen plenty of BS546 plugs / sockets damaged by overheating, but as you say the majority of damage is caused by mechanical damage.
This is just as prevalant regardless of what sort of connector you use.
There are millions and millions in constant use in the UK, and they are not all bursting into flames left right and centre.
Granted I don't have as many years experience as you, but I do install stage lighting for a living, and work in professional and amature theatre aswell.
I have seen plenty of BS546 plugs / sockets damaged by overheating, but as you say the majority of damage is caused by mechanical damage.
This is just as prevalant regardless of what sort of connector you use.
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I remember working for GEC we had really good plugs and sockets the socket also contained a switch and after you plugged in the plug you needed to turn it to switch it on then press red button on socket to turn off and release.
Also had first 110 volt systems using two plugs and sockets and the fused plug (The pins were fuse) would fit in either socket but unfused plugs would only fit the socket used with fused outlets.
The case was earth on some and others had earth pin but were very common on 110 volt.
It seems we have had some very good plugs and sockets in the past but both the types I have related to were aluminium cased and I expect were expensive.
Looking at map out 13A plug is used in many places.
but I would agree in years gone by I have replaced many with burning around the fuse holder. And yes I would agree likely movement on line pin had caused the clip on fuse to become slack. It seemed to get worse when the insulation on live pins was introduced. But of late I have not seen many with this problem so it would seem there has been some improvement in manufacture.
Before the insulator MANWEB were using a very thin 13A plug I still have a few for use behind furniture but these seemed to disappear when the insulation to stop fingers touching pins on withdraw were introduced.
However in spite of us having about the best plug and socket in the world people still produce little plastic things which defeat the shutter system so babies can still get there fingers burnt. And some how they manage to convince the mothers these silly plastic things are for safety! All I can say women must be gullible to buy such rubbish. I can see some benefit in using the silly things in dangerous euro sockets but not in out shuttered 13A sockets where they only serve to remove the in-built safety features.
Also had first 110 volt systems using two plugs and sockets and the fused plug (The pins were fuse) would fit in either socket but unfused plugs would only fit the socket used with fused outlets.
The case was earth on some and others had earth pin but were very common on 110 volt.
It seems we have had some very good plugs and sockets in the past but both the types I have related to were aluminium cased and I expect were expensive.
Looking at map out 13A plug is used in many places.
Before the insulator MANWEB were using a very thin 13A plug I still have a few for use behind furniture but these seemed to disappear when the insulation to stop fingers touching pins on withdraw were introduced.
However in spite of us having about the best plug and socket in the world people still produce little plastic things which defeat the shutter system so babies can still get there fingers burnt. And some how they manage to convince the mothers these silly plastic things are for safety! All I can say women must be gullible to buy such rubbish. I can see some benefit in using the silly things in dangerous euro sockets but not in out shuttered 13A sockets where they only serve to remove the in-built safety features.
Thats where the MK Multi-Kontact system comes in, I don't always get the chance to sell them, but it often goes with the RCD selling points when young cildren or grandchildren are around.
The other thing I keep forgetting to post is that for portable (read temporary) installations its common practice to put dimmer packs in the lighting rigs complete with their MCB's, making them inaccessible during a show or performance.
If it is a temporary electrical installation (BS7909:2008) then it probably isn't going to be a massive issue to get to the dimmer to replace it, similar to a changing a lamp.
You'd have to take into account when setting up that you don't have too many lamps on a single dimmer module.
You'd have to take into account when setting up that you don't have too many lamps on a single dimmer module.
The majority of 13A plugs and sockets that I have replaced by far are domestic, particularly for appliances such as washing m/c dishwasher etc where the appliance is plugged in when purchased then forgotten till there's a fault and in this situation there really should not be a problem as the connector receives little wear.
As mentioned before its not usually the wire termination thats a problem and as such a 546 rubber plug can be bent and twisted without affecting its electrical performance, the same is not true for a rubber 1363 plug.
Joe public will keep using them well beyond their sell by date without knowing that 'this manky plug' is a fire hazard.
Of course I too have handled overheated 546 connectors, and indeed 4343 too, but its uncommon. In one council run theatre I found four 15A sockets, each on a 30A BS3036 fuse. The plugs in them supplied four Strand junior8 boards and two of the boards had been running 16 1KW FOH lamps for a number of years. there was no apparent overheating problem with the setup (even when smashed up to inspect the contacts) and the manager took a lot of convincing that it needed to be altered. As I have stated before I have not yet found BS1363 connectors which I feel comfortable running at 3KW continuously, let alone twice their designed current.
An observation of mine is generally the pins in moulded 13A plugs tend to be more stable which makes them more robust and suited to the higher powers. However others do have different views on them and automatically replace them with a wirable type.
I find some of the high resistance problem generate interference and over the years have found a number this way before overheating found it.
Its unusual for us to put more than one fitting on a channel, which I think is quite a normal way of doing things.
In fact we have four 6 channel packs with 19 pin soco's and its not unknown for them to be plugged directly onto the end of the lighting bar and fed with 32A and DMX.
Slightly different to me - where I help out has a few racks of battens which have 3 of each colour in each, connected together in sets of 2 or 3.
These sets are connected to one channel per colour.
The higher powered ones front of house are on a pair per channel too.
DMX was unheard of in there, there was only 18 channels of dimming for the whole stage!
I now use a demux and a fat frog for control - have 7 betapacks to play with too.
These sets are connected to one channel per colour.
The higher powered ones front of house are on a pair per channel too.
DMX was unheard of in there, there was only 18 channels of dimming for the whole stage!
I now use a demux and a fat frog for control - have 7 betapacks to play with too.
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