What about hinging them all as close together as possible[code:1] O
/|\[/code:1]
and using a heat-shrink end cap or boot?
-
Looking for a smarter way to manage your heating this winter? We’ve been testing the new Aqara Radiator Thermostat W600 to see how quiet, accurate and easy it is to use around the home. Click here read our review.
Maintenance free vs accessible
- Thread starter rebuke
- Start date
/|\[/code:1]
and using a heat-shrink end cap or boot?
Screw connections can loosen due to heating/cooling of the cable, or vibration, or movement of the cables.
Allegedly.
Whether this actually happens is another matter.
I have found old JBs with loose terminals. I have also found old ones with no loose terminals. (Old meaning 20+ years, 40 or more in some cases).
Were the terminals never tightened properly? Did they loosen over time? There is no way to know (unlike a consumer unit this week which had ALL of the screws in the earth bar completely loose - the wires were literally falling out! Installed less than ten years ago.)
Allegedly.
Whether this actually happens is another matter.
I have found old JBs with loose terminals. I have also found old ones with no loose terminals. (Old meaning 20+ years, 40 or more in some cases).
Were the terminals never tightened properly? Did they loosen over time? There is no way to know (unlike a consumer unit this week which had ALL of the screws in the earth bar completely loose - the wires were literally falling out! Installed less than ten years ago.)
You can hear when those big brass grub screws are properly tight..
Theres a lot of limp-wristed sparkys out there, I know that from checking immediately after on site, however, I've found my own connections loose on a highly loaded crcuit a couple of years after initial install, so it is true.
As far as 3-way crimped connections are concerned, they are not available for a reason! You'd love a PIR where you have no idea where a joint has been made oroperly or not wouldn't you, think not, i'd prefer to join all cables by thru-crimping to an accessible point.
As far as 3-way crimped connections are concerned, they are not available for a reason! You'd love a PIR where you have no idea where a joint has been made oroperly or not wouldn't you, think not, i'd prefer to join all cables by thru-crimping to an accessible point.
- Joined
- 27 Apr 2008
- Messages
- 10,132
- Reaction score
- 1,149
- Country
So it it loose connections thats the problem with them.
Then why not glue them down too?
Hot melt glue is commonly used in manufacturing for sealing & can seal the terminal so it does not come undone yet can usually be easily dug out.
Then why not glue them down too?
Hot melt glue is commonly used in manufacturing for sealing & can seal the terminal so it does not come undone yet can usually be easily dug out.
My personal view about "maintenance free jn boxes" is...
1 - Use to replace lighting jn-box wiring under landing hatch at stairs only
Landing at stairs is the only place where furniture will not be placed.
Under a proper hatch re fein multimaster cut & ideally hinged so obvious.
If any chance of obstruction use a prefab hatch in the ceiling.
Lighting by jn-box can be useful if lots of downstairs spots & so on.
Pretty obviously for any big install its better to use just a **** off big adaptable box with DIN rail & Wago terminal blocks, dymo label etc.
2 - Use for hatch above spotlights
Tighter BR re cold bridging makes this one more difficult (and in my view perhaps good re either overheated lights & condensation). Wonder how many 100,000s of badly installed (no FR hat) there are in the UK.
3 - For other usage, why bother when you can just use a 1G or 2G box near a ceiling & Wago Lever (222-412/413/415)?
Simply, it makes I&T simple, easily extended re bigger box (2G) if needs be. WAGO are a little limited re 5-way, could do with a tab & screw hole.
1 - Use to replace lighting jn-box wiring under landing hatch at stairs only
Landing at stairs is the only place where furniture will not be placed.
Under a proper hatch re fein multimaster cut & ideally hinged so obvious.
If any chance of obstruction use a prefab hatch in the ceiling.
Lighting by jn-box can be useful if lots of downstairs spots & so on.
Pretty obviously for any big install its better to use just a **** off big adaptable box with DIN rail & Wago terminal blocks, dymo label etc.
2 - Use for hatch above spotlights
Tighter BR re cold bridging makes this one more difficult (and in my view perhaps good re either overheated lights & condensation). Wonder how many 100,000s of badly installed (no FR hat) there are in the UK.
3 - For other usage, why bother when you can just use a 1G or 2G box near a ceiling & Wago Lever (222-412/413/415)?
Simply, it makes I&T simple, easily extended re bigger box (2G) if needs be. WAGO are a little limited re 5-way, could do with a tab & screw hole.
Surely designing the installation to avoing having to use any type of joint box would be the best idea?
RF, sure, jn-boxes should always be designed out.
In some instances a jn-box can be useful for "star" topology.
- Jn-box takes supply & stars off to LNE each room
- Each room receives LNE via 4-8 way grid switch
- Grid Sw supply ceiling, wall, picture, floor, table lamps, projector etc
Loop-in-at-switch eliminates that jn-box - if newbuild or refurb.
Similarly smoke alarms may need to be wired in a "star" topology.
- Getting multiple wires into one terminals can be difficult
- Surface 1G jn-box w/Wago at ceiling level can make things easier
- Better, many alarm makers do a surface pattress with wiring space
Depends on the layout of the house, existing oval capacity etc.
Yes design jn-boxes out, if not try to make directly accessible.
In some instances a jn-box can be useful for "star" topology.
- Jn-box takes supply & stars off to LNE each room
- Each room receives LNE via 4-8 way grid switch
- Grid Sw supply ceiling, wall, picture, floor, table lamps, projector etc
Loop-in-at-switch eliminates that jn-box - if newbuild or refurb.
Similarly smoke alarms may need to be wired in a "star" topology.
- Getting multiple wires into one terminals can be difficult
- Surface 1G jn-box w/Wago at ceiling level can make things easier
- Better, many alarm makers do a surface pattress with wiring space
Depends on the layout of the house, existing oval capacity etc.
Yes design jn-boxes out, if not try to make directly accessible.
can you call them JB's please.. it's awkward keep reading jn-boxes...
It seems they are...
Maybe it's the long weekend getting to me, but I can't think why a 3-way is any worse than a 2-way....
DIYnot Local
Staff member
If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.
Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.
Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local
