Mini circular saw not cutting straight

[henry1]

Before I throw it away, I want to make sure it's not possible to save it.

It's a Parkside one I've had for a few years. When cutting with a batten to the left to guide it, it forces its way to the left.
This tells me the blade is not aligned with the left side of the base plate and points to the left.
I've tried to screw back the base plate slightly to the left as well but the screws just guide it back in place. Even enlarging the holes doesn't help.
It would be a shame to have to throw it as otherwise everything works perfectly fine with it.

Any recommendations for a new one? Corded. I'm a bit scared of the power of a big circular saw to be honest. Although I have a table saw.

 

[big-all]

if that was me i would remove the blade and refit [possibly new blade ]
did it cut strait before or first time with a baton ??
is the baseplate cast or pressed metal ??
has it been dropped or bent
in general if its a small saw and small deviation i would look at tinkering with a file/added material along the base edge /"ENCOURAGING" a pressed metal base to re-alline to the blade
model or instruction manual may help with suggestions

 

[catlad]

Can you not just draw a pencil line on your workpiece and follow that with your eye?

 

[Munroast]

first things first, have you tried a new blade, if the teeth are damaged on one side it will try and wander
is the riving knife damaged / bent ? (pity it is too dangerous to try without, so do not remove that)
if following a pencil line (no baton) does it still wander ?

also not sure how it is wandering to the left if the baton is on that side, if the baton is well clamped then you should just get burn marks

 

[henry1]

All good suggestions.
The circular saw was working perfectly fine for years. It's only recently that I have started having this problem.
I may have dropped it in the past or knocked it, although i don't remember. That would explain why it doesn't cut in a straight line anymore.

The baton is clamped in place but the saw is forcing its way into it to the point that it becomes hard to push it forward or the thin base plate is trying to dig its way underneath.

How do I tell the difference between cast metal and pressed metal here?

I didn't try a new blade but an old one that cut fine when it was in use. There is no riving knife with a portable circular saw. I cannot follow a pencil knife with no baton, the saw just veers to the left. Even a baton securely clamped to the left can't stop it.

Filing the edge is an option but rather desperate. I think at this stage I would just buy a new one. That saw was excellent value for money. The plastic tab adjusting the depth got broken and Parkside sent me a replacement one free of charge straight from Germany. It just bothers me that I'll be throwing a saw that cuts.

 

[Alec_t]

Definitely sounds like the blade is no longer parallel to the base-plate edge.

I've tried to screw back the base plate slightly to the left as well but the screws just guide it back in place.

Can you drill/tap and use extra screws to ensure parallelism is maintained?

 

[big-all]

cast the top looks different from underneath, so far less malleable [may break when bending ]pressed ..a flat sheet formed to a shape highly open to manipulation without dammage

 

[henry1]

Well the top looks different to the bottom but I think only because the bottom has been polished on purpose. Otherwise it looks like a thin plate that has been bent. The plate is by no means flexible though.
Attached is a pic of the saw.

 

[henry1]

I've just done a few tests.
I was (obviously) wrong when I said that cutting freehand makes it veer to the left. There's no base plate fighting it so when I cut without a baton, it cut along the line.
I removed the blade and put another in place and it cut perfectly fine the first time. Unfortunately when I made repeated cuts, it started going to the left again. I thought I had nailed it.
With the baton guiding it, it's pushing hard against it to the extent that I'm struggling to push the saw forward, it becomes hot and there's a burnt smell.

 

[johnny2007]

Any recommendations for a new one? Corded. I'm a bit scared of the power of a big circular saw to be honest. Although I have a table saw.

Don't be scared.
A corded circular saw of a good brand glides when cutting and you need very little or no encouragement to make it go forward.
I have a 190mm Makita for quick jobs and use Freud blades, often on offer at Screwfix; it works perfectly.
Your table saw is a lot more dangerous than a circular saw, considering that in the latter, if used correctly, the blade is always covered, even if it slips out when cutting.

 

[catlad]

If it won't cut straight freehand, then I'd say throw it in the bin.

 

[blup]

If it’s not cutting straight in the way you describe chuck it, Makita make good quality circ saws

 

[henry1]

If it’s not cutting straight in the way you describe chuck it, Makita make good quality circ saws

Have you been going through my internet history?
i've just bought a Makita saw at only £60 this week.