moving a dhw cylinder

[bludger]

Hi,

I need a bigger hot water cylinder and would like to take the chance to change its position as well. The cylinder is an all electric economy 7 job, fed from a cold water tank in the loft.

I'd like the new tank next to the bathroom, about 2.4m feet along the hall. It seems to me I could just move it and re-connect the cold tank, and the expansion pipe above it, with longer piping, some of which would be travelling horizontally. Or, I could leave the cold tank where it is and position a new expansion receptacle in the loft above the new cylinder, with a separate overflow outlet to outside.

The cold water supply to the cylinder would have to travel horizontally whichever option I choose. Some advice please, on all this would be really appreciated.

 

[seco services]

you say you need a bigger cylinder. what size is the one you have ?
how many people live there ?

 

[bludger]

Thanks for replying, Seco Services,

The cylinder measures roughly I metre by 40 cms (40ins X 16ins). I've no idea what the actual volume is. It's about 45 years old and unmarked.

There are only two of us but we often have friends staying. The thermostat is set at 80 degrees and, even so, we find that the hot water is running out if we use it a lot, even when we are on our own. So we have to use the boost function.

The cylinder is only insulated with a sectional plastic wrapper thing and for obvious reasons I'm getting concerned about the cost of heating. I gather that if I buy a new cylinder, the thermostat will only be capable of going up to 60 degrees for safety reasons. So it's clear we'd need a bigger cylinder to make up for the reduced temperature even if the improved insulation on the new cylinder made a difference to heat loss.

It's after 11pm now and will pick this up tomorrow if you don't mind.

 

[Rico99]

Hi there,

Why do you want your hot water at 80 deg. This doesnt make it last longer
it just takes longer for it to heat up and costs you more to do so.

The water will last just as long being heated to 60 deg and will cost you less to do so as the elements will close off earlier.

Hope this is of help.

Rico

 

[bludger]

We've found that the water does last longer when it's heated to 80 degrees. When, for instance, we're washing up, we run less hot water into the bowl because we have to add cold to it. When it's been at 60 degrees we have to use more of the hot water and less of the cold.

Remember, the cylinder is heated up overnight at the cheap rate and if we have to boost the water temperature in the day, it is very expensive.

To go off at a tangent I've been reading this forum extensively over the last day or two. I'm now wondering if an unvented, direct electric cylinder would be the best thing. It would get rid of the old galvanised cold tank in the loft for a start which doesn't look in good condition.

I'll do some more research and post appropriately in a new thread, probably about the economics of switching

Thanks for your reply.

 

[crash3903]

don't you have to have a ticket to fit an unvented system? I think you do

If you know what you are doing great, if not then you have this to show your friends and neighbours

 

[bludger]

Yerrss! Not something you want to happen in your house, is it! I'd get a plumber in if I do go for an unvented cylinder.

I'm starting to think that I should stick to gravity feed as the threads on the forum aren't encouraging when it comes to cost and maintenance issues of unvented cylinders.

I'm goggle eyed from reading about it all and will give it a rest now until tomorrow.

Thanks for pointing out the dangers Crash.

 

[crash3903]

your welcome