Moving a double socket to a stud wall

15 Jul 2016
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United Kingdom
I'm having a stud wall built in front of the existing wall in one of my bedrooms to allow me to install internal insulation between the stud work of the new wall.

There is a double socket recessed into the existing wall, but the cable is too short to allow me to fit it to the stud framework. I don't need to move the height or position of the socket, just move it forward about six inches so that it is on the stud wall.

I'm looking for some advice on the best way to do this, and also if the cable needs to go through the insulation at any point, will this cause any problems?
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Thanks for the link.

The cables come up from the floor below but the socket itself is at the standard height on the wall. The stud framework has already been installed, so I'm looking for an option that wouldn't involve lifting up floorboards to run the cable.

I'm a DIY'er and haven't done anything like this before. Sorry if this is a daft question, but if I fit a blanking plate over the existing socket, should I use some kind of maintenance free junction box to connect the two cables that go into the socket to the new position on the stud wall. This would mean the two grey cables would run horizontally from the existing location to the stud wall without any protection. Would this be OK and safe?

Also what is the best way to fix a back box onto the stud wall. Would it be best to screw it to one of the studs and have the plasterboard cut around it when it is being fitted, or to cut through the plasterboard and use one of the boxes specially designed for plasterboard.
The best way is to use a termianl block in the existing box and put a blanking plate over. Maintenance free is not necessary as you will be able to access the joint if needed.

Run two lengths of 2.5mm² through to the new position. That way you will be extending the ring to the new position - gives you more options later. Throught the insulation will probably be OK as it will be minimal in the stud.

Use a platerboard/drywall box. Or a Studbox. Cut hole in plasterboard after board goes up be before the plasterer has been in!
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You could cut a floorboard, and do a maintenance free joint under the floor.

You may be able to cut a board close to the studwork, and then do a repair job to the floor later. A piece of batten supporting the end of the board often gets you out of trouble.
Thanks for the advice everyone. I will use on of the options suggested.

I don't have any cable to use for this job. Is it possible to buy a short length of cable anywhere or do I need to get a reel of it?
Yes - places like Wilkinson used to sell it by the metre.

Or a good hardware shop.

I think B&Queue sell short reels of 5m or so.
if the cable needs to go through the insulation at any point, will this cause any problems?
Is it thermal insulation, or acoustic?

If thermal then you must ensure that you maintain the integrity of the vapour control layer, or you'll get condensation and mould on the wall. And if it's more than 125mm thick it will reduce the current carrying capacity of the cables too much.
It's 100mm wood fibre insulation. There is no vapour control layer as my house over 100 years old, and I was advised by Historic Scotland that I should use a breathable insulation material without a vapour control layer.

Check on the Building forum whether that advice is good, or barking mad.

Once you have the insulation installed, the inner surface of the walls will always be cold, and breathable or not, the warm moist air from the room will condense on it.

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