My 1st Time

Sponsored Links
Lintel cant go under the trimmer as it must sit in the ceiling/floor void. I think I would like something more substantial to hold the trimmer as there is a fair size area coming off it.
 
If you’re fitting a lintel at least as deep as the trimmer then I don’t see why a built in joist hanger wouldn’t be ok. There must be loads of double joists that are trimming other joists, that might come off a hanger at one end. Don’t see an issue.
 
Sponsored Links
lintel is not quite as deep at the trimmer. Access to the inner wall is restricted as the 1st joist runs along the external wall so getting a hanger in there would be very hard.

Is a C section steel cutting the trimmer into it a no go?
 
I'm certainly no engineer but I'm always surprised by how much a little bit of metal can hold up. This is one of my favourites - I'm sure it's a trick of the light but I swear those steels aren't much bigger than those holding up my extension at home, and it looks like it's built off the roof of a few shops.

Screenshot_20200711-211236.png


I did wonder if the joist was a bit close to the end. An offcut of RSJ, or C channel as you suggest would be fine - it's really a matter of what you can get hold of that you can fit in easily. But, that joist against the wall has a tiny span you could probably hack most of it away to make room for a hanger - but be careful in case it's tennoned into the trimmer!
 
Funnily enough it is tennoned into the trimmer.

I think I will order a c section cut to suit the opening size and cut the trimmer into it. Prop the trimmer inside, install the steel let it go off then apply the trimmer weight. That way it can all be done from outside and I know it's going nowhere then stick the concrete lintel to the external skin.
 
I have managed to source myself a 2500mm long universal beam from a friend FOC. This will work just fine i think holding the full width of the wall plus allowing me to cut the trimmer into it.

Now the question is how does it get installed whilst keeping the strong boys in place? I only have access from 1 side so i cant slide it in from the other?
 
Might need to move those boys a bit higher (one at a time), those angled bits get in the way when doing the inner skin from outside. When I did mine I squeezed the steel in from a scaffold on the left then pulled it up:
IMG_20191219_111352772.jpg


In the picture it's not floating in mid air, it's sitting on a steel bar through one of the acrow holes, and the brickwork above was knackered already due to plastic windows not my propping!

The left hand one was worse, I had to tip it on its side because I couldn't get it past the triangle on the second strongboy in.
IMG_20200107_123255151.jpg


Oh, and don't forget to prop the trimmer, I'm sure you've got it in hand but sometimes easy to overlook when you've got 10 other things to think about.
 
Thanks CDBE - Will make sure i stick an acrow under the trimmer.

They just asked if i wanted 2 C sections instead of an I Beam. Think that would be easier to get in around the acrows and can then bolt together once in.
 
Ok things are moving on. I removed a few more bricks, have a nice large section of internal load bearing wall to site one end on 200mm+ and have installed padstones at each end to support the load as the existing brickwork seems a bit worse for wear.

Having 2 steels dropped off tomorrow to slot in if all goes to plan.

Hopefully the final question -

I have 5-10mm clearance in height for the steel. How is best to install

1) sit steel dry on the padstones and pack between top of steel and brickwork

2) Support steel up onto the brickwork and pack between the bottom of the steel and padstone

3) Remove 1 more layer of bricks above. bed lintel on padstone and install a new layer of slightly smaller cut bricks/blocks on top of lintel

Padstone.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks. So more important to have the packing under the steel. This makes sense and will be far easier to achieve.

How dry should the mortar be for such a small bed does it make much difference?
 
If you've only got 5mm I think you'll struggle. You want to jack it up with a decent bed of mortar to fill all unevenness in the bottom of the bricks so you need clearance to do this (10mm bed on top of steel plus 5mm space to slide it in without scraping the bed off). I'd knock the padstones off (and if you can find a use for them elsewhere keep them - they're not really necessary - more of those blocks will do). Then just build up tight under the end bearings. It's really difficult to fully fill tiny deep gaps with mortar.
 
Yeah you don’t want to be trying to push mortar into a 5mm gap, when you said packing I assumed you were planning on slate packing the ends of the steel which you could do and avoid removing the padstones
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top