My picture of the week

[JohnD]

I have a car where, if you have an air-filter box on your desk in the design studio, you can undo the clips, hinge it open and put a new filter in.

When it is fitted to the car, you can't hinge the lid open.

There is a clever trick where you file away part of the hinges so you can lift the lid off without dismantling.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Ah yes, the synchroniser assemblies, aka synchro hubs - where you slide the outer ring off and the parts instantly distribute themselves to all corners of the garage, never to be seen again

I was forewarned about that, and did the sliding apart inside a bag

I remember helping a mate with a mini gearbox many many years ago

MG Midget 1100 - almost certainly the same synchro components.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

When it is fitted to the car, you can't hinge the lid open.

On the Midget I found that you couldn't remove the oil filter (in those days a can with a replaceable element) without turning it on its side after unscrewing it.

Cue the deep joy of used engine oil (nice and hot as it's best to change the oil when it's that temperature) running down your arm, over the floor...

 

[SimonH2]

I've come to the conclusion that every manufacturer has a maintainability assessment department. The job of the skilled engineers in this department is to assess how hard it is to do various maintenance tasks - and re-engineer anything that's too easy
I have a number of special tools (some bought, some made) in my tool box. Examples include :

• A special cranked spanner to access the nut on the hold down plate for the dizzy on the Rover V8. It isn't too hard to get to on older vehicles, but on later ones where the alternator is moved up to make way for the power steering pump, and aircon (even if only as an option) prevents having the alternator on the other side ... well, it's not all that easy to get to.
• A long 9/16"AF socket with a thin section for working on propshaft bolts - 5/16 UNF
• A 27mm flogging spanner made from 1/4" steel plate for undoing and tightening the crank pully nut on early LR diesels - and with a selection of holes drilled in it for pulling pulleys off the various shafts in the timing case (and the steering wheel, needs a couple of 1/4" UNC bolts).
• A (IIRC) 3/8" UNC bolt for pulling rear brake drums off.

And as for getting at the top securing bolt of a td5 starter - that's one of those "if you don't have the exact right combination of flexi sockets and wobble bars then forget it" jobs.

And an interesting tidbit about the venerable Rover V8 engine - which is still made in small quantities as somone bought the design and tooling when LR stopped using them. All sizes from the original 3.5l all the way up tho the 4.6 & 5l versions they ended up as have identical block dimensions and the same threads. The later 4.6 versions have a different nose length on the crankshaft and the oil pump is built into the timing case rather than being driven by the (by now non-existent) dizzy. The earlier timing case will fit with a spacer to take up the extra crank nose length.
Maybe someday I'll have the time to put a nice 4.6 & auto box in the old 90 - they tend to go quite nicely with that combination Pass anything but a fuel station

Have we gone far enough off topic yet

 

[JohnW2]

I've come to the conclusion that every manufacturer has a maintainability assessment department. The job of the skilled engineers in this department is to assess how hard it is to do various maintenance tasks - and re-engineer anything that's too easy

That's certainly how it has always seemed - or, at least, to make sure that nothing is too easy without the use of bespoke 'Service Tools'.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Maybe someday I'll have the time to put a nice 4.6 & auto box in the old 90 - they tend to go quite nicely with that combination

Never seen how autos are better for off-road use than a manual with a proper low range. Can you do a failed hill climb anywhere near as well, for example?

Have we gone far enough off topic yet

Is it a bit like how at school you'd divert teachers into talking about something they were interested in as an alternative to the lesson?

 

[SimonH2]

Never seen how autos are better for off-road use than a manual with a proper low range. Can you do a failed hill climb anywhere near as well, for example

Yes and no - there are advantages and disadvantages compared to a manual box. Certainly a manual box gives easier control at very low speeds - but for a lot of driving the auto saves a certain amount of effort. It does depend on the auto box and how it's controlled/setup.
The auto box in dad's Avensis is quite poor in many respects. Defaults to trying to get into as high a gear as possible and needs use of sport mode for drivability. In town it needs sport mode to hold it to 3rd or it will cruise off to 35mph. On the road it needs sport mode (to force it down a gear) for smooth overtaking - otherwise it's a case of press go pedal and not a lot happens, press harder and after a few seconds it changes from 4th to 2nd, gives you a kick from the seat, you lift off a bit as it's accelerating more than desired, and shifts back into 4th
On the few occasions I've driven my mate's Range Rivers with the old ZF HP42 box, I've found them quite smooth to drive That's the box I'd be fitting - simple and readily available.

Is it a bit like how at school you'd divert teachers into talking about something they were interested in as an alternative to the lesson?

Yes indeed. But I recall a couple of teachers who needed no prompting. One was an art teacher who once talked through an entire lesson, the other was metalwork & control tech who seemed to start every talecwith "when I was in Vickers ...". Trouble was, they were lessons I liked - and woodwork where a vote meant we played cricket instead for a summer term; I was rubbish at cricket

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Yes and no - there are advantages and disadvantages compared to a manual box. Certainly a manual box gives easier control at very low speeds - but for a lot of driving the auto saves a certain amount of effort.

But I wasn't talking about a lot of driving - I was talking about off-road driving.

It does depend on the auto box and how it's controlled/setup.
The auto box in dad's Avensis is quite poor in many respects. Defaults to trying to get into as high a gear as possible and needs use of sport mode for drivability. In town it needs sport mode to hold it to 3rd or it will cruise off to 35mph. On the road it needs sport mode (to force it down a gear) for smooth overtaking - otherwise it's a case of press go pedal and not a lot happens, press harder and after a few seconds it changes from 4th to 2nd, gives you a kick from the seat, you lift off a bit as it's accelerating more than desired, and shifts back into 4th
On the few occasions I've driven my mate's Range Rivers with the old ZF HP42 box, I've found them quite smooth to drive That's the box I'd be fitting - simple and readily available.

None of which seems to have anything to do with driving off-road....

For road use I'd never go back to having a manual.

 

[SimonH2]

Mostly just a case of getting used to it. I've driven my mates RRs off road and the only time it's an issue is when climbing over rocks where the lack of positive linkage between engine revs and ground speed is a slight disadvantage. But the slip in the torque converter helps in other ways - it's so much harder to stall !
And generally, lack of clutch leaves both feet free for throttle and brake, and gear changes are easier - especially the lack of grind going into reverse.
For something like trialling I'd say manual is better, but not by much. For geenlaning I'd say auto has the edge, but it depends on the type of lane - "technical" bits favour manual, everything else favours auto.
And for rallying, I think all the custom built "buggies" in hillrallies and similar are auto which should tell you something.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

climbing over rocks

If you want to see some impressive rock climbing:

 

[SimonH2]

You should see what the 6x6 Pinzgauers can do
Yes, if you've the right tyres, enough axle articulation, low speed gearing, and full diff locks then that sort of stuff is easy. It's also really the only time that an auto box is a significant handicap as (unless you can keep lots of engine revs up and rely on very low gearing) you need power to climb a rock and then it would fly away when the power demand is reduced when you've crested it.

 

[chivers67]

Does the insulation actually reach the small enclosure on the outside? Looks like it's stripped back so far up it's gone past the point of entry? Is it painted metal or plastic?

If you're bored talking about electrics you can always go here https://www.diynot.com/diy/forums/automotive-repairs/

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You should see what the 6x6 Pinzgauers can do

Scare you witless?

Yes, if you've the right tyres, enough axle articulation, low speed gearing, and full diff locks then that sort of stuff is easy.

Hmm.

I'd be more inclined to think that it makes it look easy, but that the only really easy thing is the one of how much of a mess you can quickly get into if you forget that you need capabilities just as much as your vehicle does. And no amount of vehicle competence will make up for lack of it in the driver.

 

[SimonH2]

Does the insulation actually reach the small enclosure on the outside? Looks like it's stripped back so far up it's gone past the point of entry?

I can't say I particularly noticed, but the insulation is probably just reaching the outside of the case. The case is plastic.

I'd be more inclined to think that it makes it look easy, but ...

Well yes, no.smount of talent in the machinery will make up for the failing of the nut holding the steering wheel I've met a few of the "all the gear, no idea" club [/QUOTE]

 

[bernardgreen]

If you want to see some impressive rock climbing:

Another driver who put too much trust in his ( or her ) SatNav