Need advice on lead stop tap

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Hi

I am currently getting my kitchen done and have come across the water main pipe in the kitchen that I have never seen before.

Can anyone advise if this pipe looks like it is the stop tap for the house ? I was going to get the plumber to replace it with a lead to copper valve. Pic below but he is advised that he can't mess with it until we stop the water going to the house which is my next problem I am struggling to locate my external stop tap outside my property. This is the only thing I have found pic attached and I can't get to it for the life of me and have never seen this type of cover S
PXL_20231012_113518599.jpg
 

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It looks like a typical water stop valve cover, though a very old one - try opening it. Judging by the cover, likely the valve below it will be seized, but worth a try at turning it off.

Also might be worth contacting your water supplier, some are replacing lead, with copper to the inside valve, for free.
 
It looks like a typical water stop valve cover, though a very old one - try opening it. Judging by the cover, likely the valve below it will be seized, but worth a try at turning it off.

Also might be worth contacting your water supplier, some are replacing lead, with copper to the inside valve, for free.
Thanks for the reply mate. I have tried to lift it but it won't budge at all. I am with united utilities so they will only replace up to the boundary of the property which is not ideal.

My problem is that the lead pipe in the second picture needs a lead to copper stop tap fitted so I have one for access in the kitchen but at the moment I can't access my external one and United utilities are saying that they don't maintain them anymore so it's basically my problem. I have a plumber coming later but not sure what else he can do if we can't even get to the external tap. United utilities said they will only help if the plumber is unable to use a freeze and squeeze method but we need to have a very good reason for them not being able to do it.
 
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OK, so how much of the OP's lead is inside and outside the boundary - over to the OP?
That doesn't matter that much, as it can be replaced at the boundary free of charge if the op puts in a mdpe feed at their cost
 
That doesn't matter that much, as it can be replaced at the boundary free of charge if the op puts in a mdpe feed at their cost

That really depends on the op, and how far he is from that boundary - it could be three yards or three hundred yards. Mine is a little more manageable, at around 30 yards.
 
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OK, so how much of the OP's lead is inside and o
That really depends on the op, and how far he is from that boundary - it could be three yards or three hundred yards. Mine is a little more manageable, at around 30 yards.
Not sure how far but it would mean I would have to replace all the lead pipe work up to the boundary which would be the full length of the drive.

Regardless I think my issue is if I somehow manage to open up the grid and the valve is seized/ won't work would it be united utilities responsibility. I don't want the lead pipes replaced on the drive/ boundary as it will cost me too much. I just need to replace part of the lead piping with a lead to copper stop in the kitchen (second picture) as I don't think I have an internal stop tap unless the pipe in the second picture is ?
 
Regardless I think my issue is if I somehow manage to open up the grid and the valve is seized/ won't work would it be united utilities responsibility.

As it is outside your boundary it must be UU's problem to fix it. Lifting the metal cover will not be too difficult, normally a T key fits, but a flat screwdriver should lift it, maybe loosen it with a lump hammer?
 
I think you need to think long and hard about this one and see how finances are placed. If pic 2 is you mains then that is only going to cause problems in the long term. The best approach, especially with lead would be to have it replaced.

As far as locating the external toby that would be for UU to establish, as that's their responsibility. Once that's known that give you a starting point and the main isolating point. Just because your current mains runs up the driveway, doesn't mean that your new one has to.

Surely there has been wet works performed in the property at some point, that would need the mains shut down and I wouldn't say it was turned off at that lead by the looks of it. The chamber lid will go, it just needs worked on and some lubricating/penetrating oil used etc
 
Surely there has been wet works performed in the property at some point, that would need the mains shut down and I wouldn't say it was turned off at that lead by the looks of it. The chamber lid will go, it just needs worked on and some lubricating/penetrating oil used etc

It's pretty much essential to have a working means to isolate the supply, in case of an emergency anyway. What are you going to do, if you have a burst pipe this winter, or need to change a faulty tap washer?
 
You can get a new pipe 'moled' in nowadays, they'd dig a metre deep hole in the footpath at the stopcock the use a mole to tunnel the cable under your drive to a suitable hole near your kitchen the you'd use something like an insuduct to get it into the property.

The above should stop the need to dig a trench through your drive
 
Is it some kind of snowflake plumber, but not so cold that he owns a pipe freezing kit? That cover needs whacking with a lump hammer then levering open with a man/person hole key.

If that's not it, lead common supply pipes are often shared with 3 houses - mine was a way down the street - found by UU as I couldn't find it.

I thought they were obliged to provide you with a working means of isolation - what happens in an emergency when your house is being flooded?- I would get back onto them.
 
Thanks all I rang up this morning and complained about not having anyway to turn my water off in an emergency and they are coming out on Monday to sort hopefully.
 

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