New Bosch oven

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I have checked through some similar posts on wiring up ovens but I just wanted some thumbs-up, please :)

This single oven is to replace a previous faulty oven, it's a Bosch
http://www.boschappliances.co.uk/products-detail-ovens.aspx?id=36

It does not come with an external felx or plug and the connection will be directly hardwired to a dedicated circuit for the oven. This circuit does not terminate with a plug socket but three terminals for earth, live and neutral.

I have the correct cable, I checked... a code stamped every 10 cms along the cable's length is as per instruction manual (I forget the code); in fact it's a cable for a PC which will be stripped both ends to the correct length!

So...

1/ Turn off circuit for the oven at fuse box. Turn off dedicated swich for oven on the wall.
2/ Using flex, wire the terminals on the oven to the terminals on the wall, like for like, earth, neutral and live.
3/ Turn on circuit for oven.

Seems straightforward, is there anything I should watch out for?

Thanks in advance.
 
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You need to find out the Current used by the oven, and protect the circuit with a fuse or MCB of that rating.

As it is a single oven, it quite likely runs at 12 or 13 Amps, but I can't see the power on the page you linked.

Cooker Circuits are very often a lot higher than this, as they are provided to supply electric cookers (with rings) not just ovens.

The makers may say it needs a 20A supply, but this is often what they say for European installations that do not have our wonderful 13A outlets.
 
Does the phrase 'It's a cable for a PC....' worry anyone else?
 
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Thanks for replies.

OK, at home now so details.

The mains connection lead type should be at least H05 VV-F. This PC cable has this written along it's length, though is 6mm diameter so I believe it would not handle the current drawn.

The new Bosch oven is 2.9kW MAX. The fuse is in the Memera 2000 consumer unit and rated at 32 amp (B32).

My previous Candy f245 oven was 2.2kW.

So I believe the fuse is fine and I should get the correct cable(?)

Ta.
 
The number you speak of is simply a reference to the type of cable and as you've discovered, it doesn't take current (or indeed voltage) into account. I'd use a length of 4mm butyl, the conductor is far larger than required to handle 2.9kW but you need to factor in the size of your protective device, in this case a 32A MCB.

Better yet, replace with a 16A MCB and wire in 2.5 or 1.5 butyl.
 
I hope you're not buying 10metres of the stuff?
 
I hope not! I need to check out Screwfix or McKays in Cambridge.

I am curious why my previous oven was on this 32 amp circuit. Does anyone imagine this oven had a built in fuse?
 
no.

the circuit was installed by someone who wanted to be prepared for a full electric cooker.

the oven was installed by someone who didn't know,or didn't care, about appliance power loadings and circuit fusing.
 
Ahhh, that is very interesting!

You know, my house will be 10 years old soon, it was built by a well known company you might confuse with an old burger joint. The people that built this house may as well been burger flippers.

Anyway, the amount of things they messed up is unbelievable (including no damp proof membrane under concrete at the front door!!!)

A thousand thanks for clearing this up for me :D
 
Scarum said:

While it might be quicker and easier for you to buy from B&Q, I hate to see people throw money down the drain. The prices for cable at B&Q have never been fantastic, but as of late they have become extortionate. TLC ( http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/CA1dot5HR3slash50.html ) sell the same cable at 83 pence per metre, you could get the couple of metres you need for under £5 including delivery to your door.
 
Hi

Any problems replacing the 32 MCB with 16 MCB even though the wire on the oven's circuit is higher guage?
 

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