New build house with defective drylinig

[newcomers]

Hi,

purchased a new build 4 years ago and after the 1st winter we knew had a problem. Had thermal imaging survey done which showed no continuous ribbon of adhesive and either no or incorrectly fitted cavity closers. Had expert witness structural survey done which showed no dpc around doors and frames, plus issues in loft and many other defects. Went legal and now 2 years later we have reached a settlement with the developer. The sum awarded to me would cover 75% of the costs involved to do the following:

Remove all dry lining and apply ribbon of adhesive along with new skirting boards. Removed windows, doors and frames, install dpm and cavity closers. Replace carpets and redecorate.

Would I achieve similar results by removing skirting boards and using foam to seal along the bottom of boards and wall? Could I inject foam along the tops of walls on both ground and first floor?

It has been suggested to me to remove dry lining and then wet plaster instead as this would reduce heat loss even more, but unfortunately I dont think the sums awarded to me would cover enough of it.

For the windows and doors I think the only way would be to remove them all and do it properly unless anyone has any ideas?

I ask because Im worried that I will use all of the money awarded to me, plus a lot of my own money doing it the right way (full removal of dry lining etc) only to find it hasnt made much difference. Im also worried that injecting foam wont make much difference either!

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Swwils]

What about joist ends?

 

[^woody^]

Didn't your experts and advisors advise you on solution as well as the problem?

 

[newcomers]

Didn't your experts and advisors advise you on solution as well as the problem?

They have advised me (said to wet plaster etc) but the problem is finding someone to carry out the works correctly.

Im just curious to know if there is an alternative way of doing it and possibly cheaper as the damages wont cover the full cost.

 

[newcomers]

What about joist ends?

I intend to have these sealed up depending which way the joists run

 

[^woody^]

Wet plaster is bad advice as the wall is dry lined to achieve its u-value (insulation/building regulations) and give a warmer surface to reduce condensation risk.

The void behind plasterboard should be correctly sealed for draughts and fire/hot smoke - especially important in flats but equally relevant for houses.

 

[Swwils]

Wet plaster is bad advice as the wall is dry lined to achieve its u-value (insulation/building regulations) and give a warmer surface to reduce condensation risk.

The void behind plasterboard should be correctly sealed for draughts and fire/hot smoke - especially important in flats but equally relevant for houses.

They probably mean to do a parge coat to achieve airtightness then board ontop again.

As with anything you it needs to be applied with a bit of TLC to work.

 

[newcomers]

Wet plaster is bad advice as the wall is dry lined to achieve its u-value (insulation/building regulations) and give a warmer surface to reduce condensation risk.

The void behind plasterboard should be correctly sealed for draughts and fire/hot smoke - especially important in flats but equally relevant for houses.

There was a study from the University of Leeds that says different regarding wet plaster. Even under labatory conditions, dry lining installed correctly wasnt as good as wet plaster.

 

[^woody^]

There was a study from the University of Leeds that says different regarding wet plaster. Even under labatory conditions, dry lining installed correctly wasnt as good as wet plaster.

Wet plaster does not achieve the same higher u- values that dry lining does, and creates a colder internal surface, and creates an uneven temperature surface thus increasing condensation risk. Those are facts. So I don't know what this study you refer to was actually studying.

 

[George_engineer]

Wet plaster does not achieve the same higher u- values that dry lining does, and creates a colder internal surface, and creates an uneven temperature surface thus increasing condensation risk. Those are facts. So I don't know what this study you refer to was actually studying.

Could use an insulating wet plaster.

 

[^woody^]

Could use an insulating wet plaster.

Then an insulated dry lining and the same comments will stand.

 

[Bodgedbuild]

Whatever you do, don't start injecting foam into places you can't see. The amount that stuff can expand and the force at which it can push is incredible so you could end up with wavy walls. On internal walls I'd scribe and cut a straight line and remove enough plaster to get some wet plaster in to make sure fire can't peculate behind the plasterboard along it's entire length. On external walls you might find not enough room for insulated board so you may have to remove the lot if the U values don't meet required amounts.

 

[cdbe]

I don't know where a DPM goes round windows in a modern cavity wall? You should be able to fit closers just by removing the plasterboard in the reveals. Personally I doubt expanding foam would cause problems with bursting if injected round the perimeters as there's plenty of room for it to expand.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Not sure if was the same study I read about drylining Vs wet- the big advantage of wet plaster is it fills holes in blocks/bricks and mortar courses so reducing draught and energy loss. Think it mentioned a wall would get a pass under current regs with air porosity equivalent to a hole the size of a 20p piece every square metre.

 

[newcomers]

Had another builder round this evening to give me a quote, and he suggested to save money why not cut out 6 inches of plasterboard along edges of external walls, seal plasterboard and floor joint, apply adhesive then reskim all the walls. He said he could also do the joist ends plus cavity closers. He seems to think it would have the same affect as ripping the whole lot out but save on labour and materials.

Thoughts?