new CU and garage wiring questions

Hello,
I'm planning to get a new CU installed as my home currently has no RCD protection. It's a Wylex box where the old wire fuses have been replaced at some point with MCBs. I'm basically wondering how much additional work is likely to be required based on the following-

Firstly, inside the house the power circuits are all grey cable ring circuits with 4mm2 cores (red + black) of about dozen copper strands and solid earth, the sockets being surface mounted to the skirtings. Assuming it passes insulation/continuity tests etc, is that a case of recommended improvement that can wait until I redecorate each room, or something that an electrician would have to do as part of fitting a new CU?
Is what a case of recommended improvement?

What would you be changing when you redecorate each room?

Is the described circuit a case of recommended improvement or required rewire to fit the CU. The question seems plain enough. The described circuit has multi-stranded cable as opposed to the solid core that seems to be sold these days, and the socket outlets are on the skirting board as opposed to the new specifications of however high from the floor etc.

As each room is decorated the sockets would be raised and if recommended the wiring replaced with the newer colour coded solid core stuff.

Currently it comes off an MCB in the house, could it stay as is (assuming tests show the cable itself is sound)
No.
Are you saying a garage CU cannot be run from the house CU, or that the cable method is not allowed, or both? If so please specify what the regulation is.
and go on an RCD protected circuit from the new house CU into a mini garage CU?
Yes.
Your breaking of my post into these little chunks in order to give terse uninformative answers appears to have resulted in a contradiction to the last no. I have already specified the CU is being replaced with one that has RCD protection, I now have no idea if you are telling me it can then feed the garage CU or not..

Or would the electrician have to run an armoured cable in order to keep power in the garage?
Yes.
Is this a regulation or a suggestion or a personal preference?

If so, are electricians typically willing to let the homeowner do the donkey work of laying the cable?
Yes.
Jolly good.
 
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Old cable can be reused, provided it is in good condition. The only way to determine this is by inspection and testing, so no one here can possibly comment on whether your old cables can be reused or not.

Sockets on skirting boards were common 40 years ago, but they do not comply with current regulations as they are likely to be damaged by furniture, vacuum cleaners and so on. If very close to the floor, the appliance flex will be damaged when the plug is inserted, as the flex will have to be bent through 90 degrees.
There is also the inconvenience factor of having to grovel on the floor to actually plug things in.

A ring circuit of 2.5mm cable is designed to supply a number of small loads distributed around the ring. They are not appropriate for supplying anything above 13A, and therefore connecting a consumer unit to a ring is pointless, as the total load can't exceed 13A.

Flat PVC cable is not suitable for use underground, whether in conduit or not. The only realistic cable for use underground is armoured, generally steel wire armoured or SWA. There are a few other options, but all of these will be far more expensive and take much longer to install.

Paving slabs and paths are not suitable methods of protecting a cable. Cable containment systems must enclose the entire cable, and be suitable for the environment in which they are installed. For underground, this means some form of earthed metal covering such as armoured cable.
 
These seem more like regulations questions than house specific questons to me.
And the reason you think you don't have to comply with the regulations is what, exactly?

I took this to mean the OP thought a general response their questions could be provided with reference to the regulations, as opposed to requiring a site visit as suggested by ericmark.

Indeed ban and holmshaw have actually provided some responses to the questions without (presumably) a site visit, which kind of proves the point.
Exactly.
 
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"You are ignoring this user. Click here to bypass your ignore and view this post.
Click here to view your entire Ignore list."

There is no point in Holmslaw posting anything to me in expectation of a response.
 
A ring circuit of 2.5mm cable is designed to supply a number of small loads distributed around the ring. They are not appropriate for supplying anything above 13A, and therefore connecting a consumer unit to a ring is pointless, as the total load can't exceed 13A.

Notwithstanding the use of T+E outdoors, the set up as described does not sound like a 'ring' but actually a parallel run of two 2.5mm cables between a MCB in the main CU and a secondary CU.
 
A ring circuit of 2.5mm cable is designed to supply a number of small loads distributed around the ring. They are not appropriate for supplying anything above 13A, and therefore connecting a consumer unit to a ring is pointless, as the total load can't exceed 13A.

Notwithstanding the use of T+E outdoors, the set up as described does not sound like a 'ring' but actually a parallel run of two 2.5mm cables between a MCB in the main CU and a secondary CU.

That's precisely what it is, am I incorrect in referring to that as a ring circuit? It is effectively a ring with only one point served, namely the garage CU.
 
Why would it be limited to 13A? As I have already mentioned, there is a ring circuit, from a 30A MCB in the house CU. This feeds a CU in the garage, which has a lighting and a power MCB adding up to less than the 30A supply fuse. Two cables from an MCB in one box are the supply for the second box. I am asking if this setup is allowable, obviously the 30MCB would be replaced with the CU replacement, presumably with an RCBO.
Ah - well I wasn't replying directly to your very first post - I saw that things had moved on so I picked it up part way through.

And in the post I replied to, you wrote
can a garage be run off a 32A ring...
which I took to mean as a spur from a ring final.

It looks as though you haven't got that - I think what you're saying is that you've got 2 parallel cables supplying the CU from a dedicated fuse in the CU?

That's not a ring final. You probably weren't to know, but when you start talking about a ring in 2.5mm² cable from a 30A fuse, you are talking about a circuit which may only supply sockets and FCUs, not a CU, which is why there was initial confusion and "no you can't do that".

It sounds as though what you have is a radial, wired with 2 cables in parallel.

Intrinsically there's nothing wrong with 2 x 2.5mm² cables on a 30A fuse, but the use of twin & earth in buried conduit is very dodgy, the chances of it having been done in a way which complies with the Wiring Regulations are slim to none, as are the chances of finding an electrician prepared to use if from one new CU to another new CU which he'll be signing off.


My objection here is not that I dislike the answer, but that I would like a little more more information than 'no'. The ring setup is amply protected mechanically by being under paving, and the total current requirements of the garage to not exceed the current carrying capacity of the two cables. On what grounds are you stating 'no'?
It was on 2 grounds, but now that the ring/radial confusion is gone we are left with one.

The cables are not amply protected mechanically, because being under paving it's more likely to be attacked at some time by kangos and mini-diggers than if it was in a flowerbed, and they'll go straight through pvc conduit and through steel that's been buried for more than a few years.

Armoured cable really is the only way to go.


I corrected the initial post to 4mm2 long before you replied,
See above - you hadn't (and still haven't) corrected the post I quoted.


and even if I had not surely it's simple enough to state whether or no multi-stranded cable in good condition is recommended for replacement or not.
Well - I was trying to be even terser than previous replies.....

Sorry 'bout that.

These seem more like regulations questions than house specific questons to me.
And the reason you think you don't have to comply with the regulations is what, exactly?

I have no idea where you are coming from there. I did not suggest at any point that I do not need to comply with the regulations, and am clearly endeavouring to find out what the regulations say with regards to my questions.
You seemed to be saying that you didn't want regulations to be a consideration in any replies.


Is the described circuit a case of recommended improvement or required rewire to fit the CU. The question seems plain enough. The described circuit has multi-stranded cable as opposed to the solid core that seems to be sold these days, and the socket outlets are on the skirting board as opposed to the new specifications of however high from the floor etc.

As each room is decorated the sockets would be raised and if recommended the wiring replaced with the newer colour coded solid core stuff.
Do the cables run down the walls from above, or up from under the floor? If the latter how will you raise the sockets if you don't replace the cable? Is there enough slack in all of them?

Plus replacing all or significant sections of a circuit really should be tested.


Your breaking of my post into these little chunks in order to give terse uninformative answers appears to have resulted in a contradiction to the last no. I have already specified the CU is being replaced with one that has RCD protection, I now have no idea if you are telling me it can then feed the garage CU or not..
You can't reuse that old cable run to the garage.

You can supply the garage from an MCB in the house CU, but you'd be better off having the electrician split the tails and run SWA from a switchfuse to the garage, don't come off the house CU at all.


Is this a regulation or a suggestion or a personal preference?
The regulations require buried cables to be protected. By far and away the cheapest and most practical way to do it is to use armoured cable.


I'm basically wondering how much additional work is likely to be required based on the following-
But really that question can only be answered by the electricians who have been to see the job, discussed what you want to do, and formed their opinions.

As long as the old cables are sound they can stay, but no reputable and competent electrician would consider replacing a CU without testing the old circuits first, so things could change anyway.

As ever, personal recommendations are always the best way to find a reputable tradesman, but if you're having to go ahead without much in the way of those, or references, don't put any store by registration itself - sadly it is possible to become registered with woefully inadequate qualifications and zero practical experience. You don't have to spend long here to see people cropping up who are registered and "qualified", but who are clearly seriously incompetent in reality and who should not be charging for their services.

You are looking for someone to install CUs, run a supply to a garage etc, and it may surprise and dismay you to learn that it is quite possible to become a "certified electrician" without ever having done those things before, and without having acquired any of the practical skills needed to do it without half-destroying your house in the process.

It's your money, £'00s of it, and you have every right to ask prospective tradesmen what their qualifications and experience are. Just being listed here is not a good enough guide. No genuinely experienced electrician, with the "full set" of C&G qualifications will mind you asking - in fact he will wish that everyone was like you.

I feel sorry for people who have been misled by training organisations and (shamefully) the Competent Person scheme organisers into thinking that a 5-day training course, a couple of trivial examples of their work and some basic understanding of how to use test equipment will make them an electrician, but not sorry enough to agree with them trying to sell their services to Joe Public.
 
I think that a good old rewire is required here, to begin with, any sockets that are fed from below which need raising up will require joins in the cables, as this was designed / installed in the 60's then there wont be any where near enough sockets for modern day living and they certainly wont be in useful places.

Now would be the time to have a look at the electrical requirements of the house and the people living in it, plan where things should be installed.

As for power to the garage then the correct cable selection would be SWA or MICC/MIMS. SWA is cheaper and is more commonly used now. The size of this cable will depend on a number of things. Here are some -

Demand
Installation method
Volt drop
Rating of over current device
Type of supply
Construction material of garage
Other services entering the garage

I would strongly advise getting some electricians around and getting some prices, enquire if they prefere to have the donkey work done for them and if they would be happy for you to do any of it. The best way to find a tradesman is by reccomendation from a family or friend, make sure that the contractor you choose is a member of a competent persons scheme, this can be checked here[/url]
 
Today someone officially labelled as 'competent' (wouldn't those of you who are qualified prefer the term 'skilled'?) has been taking all my electricals apart and running tests, I will relay a summary for those who are interested -

Inside the house we're basically fine to swap the CU without other remedial work except extra earth bonding, there are recommended improvements, including raising the sockets and adding more points, but none of it is in contemplation at present. Only one urgent improvement came up, namely the lack of RCD protection for the electric shower on the top floor, which will be taken care of by the new CU anyway.

With regards the garage, the recommendation he gave is for 6mm three core SWA cable to be run to a 40A CU, not from the new house CU but from the junction block after the meter, so a seperate supply. He also recommends an isolation switch between the meter and the junction while the big fuse is off, which will make hooking the garage power in after I get round to laying the cable easier. No problem with me laying the cable, provided I use a pre-agreed route/depth and he takes a look before burying it.

The PIR cost 100, the quoted price to supply and fit both CU's, do the required bonding, replace the garage lighting circuit for reasons I didn't quite follow, test and certify and return to connect the garage is just shy of 800 pounds. Does that all seem reasonable? I'll be getting a second quote, but I did like the person I've seen already.


Thank you to those who have responded, I was able to sound semi-knowledgeable with the electrician which was basically my aim here - I suspect one often gets better prices and standards of work if it at least seems like you have basic idea of what should be done.
 
Good grief! This thread is almost unbelieveable........



Lucia.
 

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