new electric oven and chimney fan - HELP WITH WIRING PLEASE

[1FastLearner]

Good Evening Gentlemen....

Here's the situation.

After the sudden death of our Electrical Cooker i've been nominated by the Missus to redecorate the entire Kitchen.
Among other things this also involves INSTALLING a new Electrical Cooker and an Extraction Chimney.

I've researched the wiring involved & spoken to a few people, but I haven't had anybody in to look for themselves.
I've attached TWO photos for your viewing pleasure

I'd just like to know WHAT exactly im looking at, and
whether my plan to wire the new Cooker and Chimney will work without killing us all....




As the first photo shows, I have an OVEN SOCKET located next to a MAINS SOCKET.
towards the bottom of the photo you can see a metal FUSED CONNECTION UNIT running off the Oven Socket.
our existing cooker is connected to that FCU.

The second photo shows the wiring FROM the FCU connecting TO the rear of the EXISTING OVEN.

Finally, the third photo shows the wiring INSIDE the Oven Socket AND Mains Socket.

now, is there anything out of the ordinary so far in these photos ?




Ok..... what I plan to do is the following


1) connect the NEW OVEN to the existing FCU using the existing wiring. Obviously, alarm bells will ring if the
new oven looks different, but as long as I see corresponding terminals I plan to simply swap ovens.

2) install a NEW FCU to the Mains Socket in the photo, so I can hardwire my NEW CHIMNEY FAN.
I've researched adding a Spur and how to check whether a socket is suitable. Am I correct in assuming the wiring
in the third photo shows the Mains Socket is NOT a Spur and is NOT ALREADY feeding a spur ? Im assuming
this as there are two sets of wiring attached to the socket as opposed to ONE set or THREE sets. Am I correct ?



All and Any responses will be appreciated.
I simply want to better understand what im looking at, I don't plan on diving in to wiring anything
anytime soon, and I may well hire an electrician but at least I'll have a clue what he's doing.


Much Obliged Gentlemen,




Cheers

Untitled

• 1FastLearner
• 16 Aug 2009
• 1

Untitled

• 1FastLearner
• 16 Aug 2009
• 1

Untitled

• 1FastLearner
• 16 Aug 2009
• 1

 

[securespark]

Can't see the FCU for the cooker you refer to.

What size is the new cooker (in W not mm!!)?

An FCU for the hood seems ok, providing you have a ring at that point: it looks likely but your spark will be able to tell from a couple of tests.

 

[ColJack]

what do we recon the cable is guys? 6mm? 4mm? definitely not 10mm..
take the covers off the trunking and see if there is a size stamped on the cable anywhere..

1. that's not an FCU.. that's a cooker connection unit.. or CCU for short..

2. looks prety standard to me.. mains in to switch, switched mains out to CCU..

3. that socket doesn't LOOK like a spur, but without testing it, there's no way to know for sure..

to fit the hood, pull one leg out of the socket, put it in the FCU for the hood, and a new piece of cable from the FCU back to the socket.. makes it part of the ring / radial rather than a spur off it..

oh and PART P... look it up in the WIKI.. or do a quick search..
best left to the pro's if you're not comfortabel with electrics..

 

[spark1]

First point ; What is all the green stuff arouind the trunking and the wall outlet for the cooker. If its anything to do with damp then that will need sorting out first.

Second point : Cant make out what sort of an outlet it is , it will need to be a Cooker Connection unit.


Third point ; The socket looks to be on a ring but it could just as easily be a spur off a spur or even for that matter a 2.5mm Radial circuit.

..If you are going to do the work yourself the installation of the extractor spur will be notifiable......alternatively you could simply plug the extractor directly into the twin socket and not bother about the notification if like for like replacement applies for the cooker.

Oh ! and dont forget to screw the fronts back on the Cooker socket...13 Amp socket and the back of the cooker or Isolate them .

 

[securespark]

Third point ; The socket looks to be on a ring but it could just as easily be a spur off a spur or even for that matter a 2.5mm Radial circuit.

Which would make it acceptable for adding an FCU to providing the EFLI is within limits.

 

[1FastLearner]

securespark, the cooker is from currys and the website is usless, so it doesn't have that information - it is 600 mm tho

coljack, thanks for pointing out the CCU, also for mentioning the cable size. Just had a look and the cabling has the brand written but not the size I'll keep that in mind/try and find out, thanks.

two quick questions...how would I test the socket to make sure its not a spur/not already feeding a spur ? I agree that it doesn't look like one.

secondly, where you said:

to fit the hood, pull one leg out of the socket, put it in the FCU for the hood, and a new piece of cable from the FCU back to the socket.. makes it part of the ring / radial rather than a spur off it..


erm.

whats a leg ? there are two sets of wires connected to the Mains Socket, do you mean a leg of the existing wiring ? just a wild guess, hence my need for LAYMENS TERMS. So without pulling my leg, what do I pull out and how do I put it in the FCU ?

Don't worry, like I said in my original post I'll probably call in an electrican as I doubt I'll feel confident adding a FCU on my own, but I would like to know more about whats involved before I call in the Pros, ONE, so I don't get ripped off, which Pros are notorious for doing (plumber quoted £70 for a stopcock change, I did soem research and did it myself for £5)

and TWO, so I can learn a bit while my work is being done for me


cheers boys, much obliged.



spark1 -

1) coljacks right, its a CCU
2) well spotted, I took the photo on my Laptop, its the flash
and old paint/tile mortar. Its absolutely dry, promise.
3) I thought about that. If the lead is long enough for me to
hide it behind the steel splashback I might well do just that.

Hopefully the cooker is like for like, if not its more work for
the electrician. with regards to coljacks post, will I need to
worry about the EXISTING WIRING from the CCU to the NEW
OVEN ? if the new oven has the same connections as the old
one (live/neutral/earth) will the existing cable be compatible ?

finally, I isolated the CCU/OVEN by the MCB, and Oven Switch
is that safe enough ? or should I screw the cover back on ?

never can ebe too safe !

cheers again

 

[spark1]

Which would make it acceptable for adding an FCU to providing the EFLI is within limits.

Securespark

For the radial circuit yes ..I wasnt doubting it ,I was pointing out the fact that the O.P. didnt know about these alternative possible configurations of the wiring at that outlet

 

[ColJack]

yes, leg is one of the wires.. we call it the okey kokey ring method.. one leg in, one leg out.. ( BTW, that was a joke.. just in case you missed it. )

you keep saying "OVEN".. is it an oven or a cooker.. 2 very different things..
will it have a gas hob or electric?
what size breaker is feeding the cooker circuit at the minute?

 

[securespark]

Which would make it acceptable for adding an FCU to providing the EFLI is within limits.

Securespark

For the radial circuit yes ..I wasnt doubting it ,I was pointing out the fact that the O.P. didnt know about these alternative possible configurations of the wiring at that outlet

Just reassuring the OP this wiring configuration wouldn't necessarily throw a spanner in the works.

 

[1FastLearner]

I got it

1) looked on the MCB feeding the Cooker, it says its 240v.

2) its a 100% electric Cooker, no Gas.



So... a leg is one set of wires ? meaning a "leg" in this instance is 3 wires (live/neutral/earth) ?
if so, right now there are 2 legs in that socket, 6 wires in total ? is that correct ? probably not !


Earlier when you said:

to fit the hood, pull one leg out of the socket, put it in the FCU for the hood, and a new piece of cable from the FCU back to the socket.. makes it part of the ring / radial rather than a spur off it..


^Are you saying to extend one set of wires (3 wires) to the new FCU, and then "loop" some 3 core
flex back to the orignal socket ? Probably not ....im just trying to get my head around some basics.




thanks for for the responses Guys.

 

[spark1]

Just reassuring the OP this wiring configuration wouldn't necessarily throw a spanner in the works.

Now that would be fun Securespark

 

[ColJack]

"240V"... ok, that didn't help.. they're all 240V.. it's the" XXB" we need.( where XX would be 6, 10, 16, 20, 32, 40, 45, 50 etc.. ).
or do you have rewirable fuses.. ( a pic of the box if you're not sure.. )

yes exactly that..
as the cables come from the roof, and the extract will be above the cooker, you shouldn't need to extend the wires..

 

[Taylortwocities]

What is the cooker make and model number?

 

[1FastLearner]

ColJack -

Ok, so I would remove the plastic ducting coming from the ceiling, disconnect one of the two legs from the original socket and re-route THAT leg to the location of the new FCU, which will be above the socket, and leave the other leg intact ?

THEN, I would re-route the FCU back to the original socket using some 3 core flex ? Finally I'd wire the Fan into the FCU ?

If thats correct, thanks for the basics ! Now I'll have an idea what the electrican is doing...


I checked the MCB, all I could find was 32A ? Also, it said that the CONDR was 6mm2 (if that makes any sense ?) and that the measurements for the Ring Circuit was 2.5mm, and Lighting Circuit was 1.5.

was that any help ? are those measurements the cable thickness ?

here's a really bad photo, not sure it will reveal anything, apologies in advance for the the photo being reversed



TaylorTwoCities - its a Belling E641SS STAINLESS STEEL 60cm Electric Double Oven.

Untitled

• 1FastLearner
• 16 Aug 2009
• 1