New garage consumer unit for oven in kitchen

[shabbaranks]

I don't know why people have such strange ideas about induction hobs.

They actually use less electricity than old fashioned ones - therefore...

Haha I guess its like a lot of things until you come across or have experience you can only evert go by what your told (and of course understand).

Just on a side note - obviously I have this 6mm cable coming through and if I want to use it for both appliances whats the best method to go from that in parallel to the hob and oven (via an isolation switch) so I can isolate them separately AND both from the main isolation switch? If that makes sense?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Just on a side note - obviously I have this 6mm cable coming through and if I want to use it for both appliances whats the best method to go from that in parallel to the hob and oven (via an isolation switch)

Normally there is a "cooker" switch on the wall then the 6mm² is continued to a double 'outlet plate' from which runs the appropriate flexible cable to hob and oven - 4mm² or 2.5mm².

so I can isolate them separately AND both from the main isolation switch? If that makes sense?

Well, if that is what you want then a second switch will have to be fitted somewhere with the appropriate cable between the points.

However, it depends why you want them.

Local isolation switches are not required by the regulations for any appliance - but may be useful in a fault condition.
If you consider the 'cooker' switch as an 'emergency' switch (again; not actually required) then just one at an obvious position for instant access would be better.

 

[securespark]

It may be seen as overkill, but my tendency is to fit DP switches to all fixed appliances, like boilers, immersions, showers, cookers, hobs and ovens.

If there is more than one cooking appliance, I fit a switch for each. It would be a very rare occurrence, but if one appliance developed a fault to earth, you could switch it off and still use the other, whereas with a single switch for two appliances, you'd lose both.

 

[JohnW2]

It may be seen as overkill, but my tendency is to fit DP switches to all fixed appliances, like boilers, immersions, showers, cookers, hobs and ovens.

Many might regard it as 'overkill' but, as always, I'm not inclined to criticise anyone for being 'ultra cautious' (or is it 'ultra-pessimistic'? ).

If there is more than one cooking appliance, I fit a switch for each. It would be a very rare occurrence, but if one appliance developed a fault to earth, you could switch it off and still use the other, whereas with a single switch for two appliances, you'd lose both.

As above. However, as you say, it is a very rare 'occurrence' (and only a matter of 'inconvenience') that you are talking about.

For you or I, or anyone with some basic electrical skills, if one of the cooking appliances developed a fault (which would presumably require it to be removed for repair or replacement), it would not take many minutes to disconnect the faulty appliance from thee source of its power (probably a 'double outlet plate', given that there were two appliances being supplied by the circuit).

Kind Regards, John