New kitchen install

[chooks]

Hi there,

I'm about to install a new kitchen and would like some advice on installing the wiring for the new appliances.

The kitchen oven and hob were originally gas as there was no cooker circuit installed at that time. My new appliances are electric. The plan is to have the oven, warming drawer and microwave integrated in the one cabinet and hob seperate.

According to the manufacturers specs, all 4 appliances will run on a standard 13 A ring main, but I'm not comfortable with that to be honest.

My initial thoughts were to wire in the hob and oven into a double outlet box from the cooker switch and have the warming drawer and microwave just plugged into a double 13A socket on the wall.

If I need to put in the cooker circuit, what cable, MCB and various sockets would I need?

All help would be most appreciated.

 

[xr4x4]

13amp hob? unlikey..!

what hob is it?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

If you are considering installing a seperate radial circuit for the cooker, even though it will safely run of a smaller cable, I would consider putting a chunky one in.
The reason being if you one day decide to upgrade to a oven/cooker with a higher output rating the cable is there in place for it.
So at least 6mm but would be tempted to put 10mm in though.
The MCB rating does not really matter at this point providing it is a little larger than the overall fuse rating needed for your current applaince and does not exceed the rating of the cable.
I would go with a 32Amp MCB for the time being.
I would also connect it to a cooker control unit, somewhere close by within 2 metres of the appliance and above worktop height for ease of isolation.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

According to the manufacturers specs, all 4 appliances will run on a standard 13 A ring main,

I doubt that they say that, as a standard ring final is not 13A.

That you think it is makes me wonder how much you actually know about circuit design and characteristics...

My initial thoughts were to wire in the hob and oven into a double outlet box from the cooker switch and have the warming drawer and microwave just plugged into a double 13A socket on the wall.

What are the ratings of each appliance, particularly the hob?

Are you aware that you can't guarantee to be able to draw 26A from a double socket?

Are you aware that you must take care not to overload sections of a ring for significant periods?

Are you aware that the Wiring Regulations recommend that cookers, ovens and hobs rated at >2kW should not be connected to a ring final?

If I need to put in the cooker circuit, what cable, MCB and various sockets would I need?

• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/6.1.1.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/6.2.1.htm
  
  
• //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:mcbtocable
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://web.archive.org/web/20080213151445/http://www.kevinboone.com/cableselection_web.pdf
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/5.3.1.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/4.3.11.htm
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Technical/Charts/VoltageDrop.html
  
  
• http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Book/8.1.1.htm
  

 

[chooks]

The appliances are yet to arrive as I only bought the kitchen yesterday and I am only planning the install.

Appliance info is as follows:-

Oven is a Hotpoint Openspace OS897DCIX
Hob is a Candy Induction PVI640CBA
Warming Drawer is a Hotpoint HWD24X
Microwave is a Belling MW60G

As the catalogue says all are 13A

And no, I don't fully understand circuit designs and characteristics, thats why I'm asking

 

[chooks]

More info

Oven is rated at 2600w and the hob is 3000w on boost

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

chooks,
Do you intend to do the electrical work yourself or have you got an electrician on-board?
If you do intend to do the work yourself, I would do a bit of reading up on the subject first, it would also be advisable to become familar with designing circuits.
Your kitchen could easily need to be supplied by four different circuits.
Taking lighting, cooker, other appliances and worktop sockets in to consideration.

 

[chooks]

No, I haven't got a electrician at the mo, but I think I'll get one.

I was just asking what would be involved with the job, but by the sounds of it it sounds a bit above my head.

Just a tad more than wiring up a plug

Thanks for your help folks

 

[xr4x4]

http://www.candy-domestic.co.uk/products/details.aspx?pid=227

i worked out a total of 7.4kw/32amp, for all rings, all on at once, which sounds more like it for a induction hob.

oven is 2.6kw / 11amps, you should be ok on ring connected to 13amp fcu (depending on other loads on the ring)

the draw is 90watts

 

[ColJack]

it might not be 7.4kw..
induction hobs tend to modulate the "rings" so that they aren't all on together and they even reduce the power to one or more when the "boost" is put on another..

saying that, I'd definitely plan on for the full specified load ( which in this case is 3KW according to the data ), but I'd check with the manufacturers first to ensure it's not an error on the website.

 

[securespark]

Even if all appliances are 13A, it would be better NOT to put appliances 2kW or more on a ring final, as per regs.

 

[chooks]

Ok,

So all in all what would be the best and more importantly the safe way to install my appliances?

 

[flameport]

Your original plan is probably the best so far.
Even if this hob claims to use 3kW, a 32A circuit should be provided, as when it is replaced in future, the replacement hob is likely to require more than 3kW.
The oven may need it's own circuit.
The microwave can plug in.
The warming drawer could plug in, if you must have such a useless item.

As this is a new kitchen, why are you buying appliances from several different manufacturers?

 

[chooks]

Hi Flameport

The kitchen and appliances are all from B & Q because they have a sale on! (the warming drawer is what the wife wants)

The reason for picking those appliances was the fact that they were all at 13A, I thought it was going to be fine because I have no cooker circuit in the kitchen.

The Candy hob was chosen because it says it uses half the energy of a standard induction hob.

So if the 32A circuit is run into the kitchen from the RCD side of CU, can both oven and hob be wired into the same outlet from a combined socket CCU, with the microwave or warming drawing drawer plugged into the CCU socket with remaining appliance plugged into ring main?

Could this cause the RCD to trip? Should I just have just the CCU and have the microwave and warmer plugged in to the ring.

Just one more thing if I was to change the microwave from a 13A to a 16A appliance how would that stir things up?

I really appreciate all your help.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Discuss all of those electrical questions with your electrician. Anything can be done, and one thing you might consider doing is not using that hob.

See if you can get Candy to explain what they mean by the "Installed Electric Power" being 3kW when the sum of the 4 zones is 6.8 - 7.4kW.

If they mean they cap the total consumption at 3kW then what you'll be getting is a dreadfully compromised appliance, and you have no need to - you're having a new kitchen so a proper circuit for a proper hob can be installed.

The Candy hob was chosen because it says it uses half the energy of a standard induction hob.

Ye cannae change the laws of physics - a given amount of energy has to be put into food to cook it, into water to boil it etc - if you only put in half the amount then the food won't be cooked, the water won't be boiling etc.