New kitchen install

[waynes]

Hello all,

now before I get jumped on and savaged im not looking to do this myself but i am looking to find out what needs doing so I have some idea what to expect when talking to the ol sparkies
So how would you suggest this is done


We will be having a fridge, Electric Hob and electric cooker installed.

Fridge - there are sockets near the fridge but we would probably want a high lvl switch for it.

Oven and Hob - currently the prvious cooker was free standing at the other end of the room so cannot reall reuse that so would need a new cable running in

Lights - currently have two ligh sockets, would like to replace these with 2 sets of 3 spots, these I am hoping would be a straight swap (incidently I take it this is something that would adhere to part p?)

Sockets - we have another double socket which we would like higher for things like toaster and kettle and would possible want another one.

Extractor - will need some power too, it is however near some existing wiring

Existing wiring - next to where the hob, oven and extractor will be is some existing wiring, a double socket on the main ring, socket for electric bar heater (own breaker in fuse box) socket for storage heater (own breaker in fuse box) and socket for imersion heater (own breaker in fuse box) could/should any of these be reused or should I have them all removed?


Hope thats enough information and you guys may be able to help (and if any of you want work in the cambridge area.... )

This sound a big expensive job?

 

[lorraine]

Hi waynes

I'm not a spark but here's what i was advised:

32A ring for your sockets, moving and adding shouldn't be too much of a problem, must be rcd protected if it can be used for powering an outside appliance.

45A cooker on a radial. needs an isolation switch - don't connect to rcd

lights will be a floorboard up job but the wiring shouldn't be too difficult.

thats pretty much all the circuits that will supply your kitchen. As far as expense goes i don't think you can answer that on here.

but you can reduce the cost by doing the donkey work such as pulling floorboards up etc yourself.

good luck

lorraine.

 

[waynes]

Thanks for that

Bungalow here so no floorboards! at leats makes some things easier.

So the sockets are pretty much ok as is just move about as needed.
Just need new wiring for the cooker, thanks muchly.

anyone else have anything to add? all advise appreciated

 

[Qedelec]

You will be informing Building Control won't you.
Or was this done in Dec 2004.

 

[waynes]

Only bought the house 2 months ago so may struggle with the dec 04 bit... shame really!

Hopeing to get a professional in and leave him all the hassle but as I dont have any goo d recomendations i want to know what needs to be done before asking them.... it does make sense in a way, it may just be my suspicious nature I suppose tho

 

[Steve]

Fridge - there are sockets near the fridge but we would probably want a high lvl switch for it.

If you are doing things properly, you will need a 16A radial for this, run in 2.5mm² cable.

Oven and Hob - currently the prvious cooker was free standing at the other end of the room so cannot reall reuse that so would need a new cable running in

Run 2 lengths of 6mm² cable. Depending on the size of oven, it may just be wired into a plug top and plugged in on the ring main. One 6mm² is for the hob, which will need a 32A feed, the other is for a larger oven in future.

Lights - currently have two ligh sockets, would like to replace these with 2 sets of 3 spots, these I am hoping would be a straight swap (incidently I take it this is something that would adhere to part p?)

This may be a swap, BUT you may have loop-in wiring. If this is the case it will be slightly more complex, but if you note WHAT GOES WHERE before you remove the old fitting, you should have no probs.

Sockets - we have another double socket which we would like higher for things like toaster and kettle and would possible want another one.

Sounds like you will need a new ring main in 2.5mm² cable. You need at least 3 doubles around the worktops (usually more if your kitchen is bigger). You want an FCU above each built-under appliance (washer, dishwasher, possibly oven, extractor fan).

socket for electric bar heater (own breaker in fuse box) socket for storage heater (own breaker in fuse box) and socket for imersion heater (own breaker in fuse box) could/should any of these be reused or should I have them all removed?

when you say sockets, are they actually sockets or switches with flex outlet? I wouldn't mess with the storage heater, but the electric bar heater could be replaced with something more aesthetic (can you tell i hate them???) You shouldn't need 2 heaters in the same room anyway - consider uprating the storage heater if you are keeping the storage system.

If you have an immersion heater for your hot water, you dont want it removing do you? If there is a switch in your kitchen for this, lucky you - keep it.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Washing machine? Tumble drier? Dishwasher?

 

[waynes]

The storage heaters and bar heater have all been removed, just finished having central heating installed. They were a switch with flex coming out the bottom. The switch/power for the immersion heater is now redundant as that has been removed too.

Washing machine, tumble dryer, freezer are all going to be mounted in another room, incedently the same one as the new boiler has been mounted in .

I take it from what you said I would need a seperate ring for the kitchen plugs, and run fridge, extractor, kettle, toaster, microwave and a spare from it?


I take it from what you said that a small single fitted oven could have a plug attached and plugged in?


Thanks for the rest of the help guys, it allways helps to understand whats going on.

Wayne

PS - Is changing the light fitting something you would need to inform them off? also what about removing wiring?

 

[Steve]

The storage heaters and bar heater have all been removed

hurray!

They were a switch with flex coming out the bottom. The switch/power for the immersion heater is now redundant as that has been removed too

What have you done with the redundant cables?

Washing machine, tumble dryer, freezer are all going to be mounted in another room, incedently the same one as the new boiler has been mounted in .

You could have this room on the same ring main as the kitchen, have it all on one ring, just for these 2 rooms.

I take it from what you said that a small single fitted oven could have a plug attached and plugged in?

Yes, but it would be much better and safer to wire this through an FCU. Plug it in under the worktop, BUT wire this plug into an FCU above the worktop, on the ring main.

PS - Is changing the light fitting something you would need to inform them off? also what about removing wiring?

The light fitting - who's going to know anyway????
Removing wiring - go for it.

 

[pdcelec]

crafty, your replies are also getting more and more like ban's

 

[waynes]

The current redundant switch's have had the flex that comes out of them removed, they are now just a switch with a hole

Looking at it it seems that these goto a seperate comsumer unit, probably due to the fact it was economy 7 or some such. Will look at having the consumer unit removed when we have the electrician in then I can remove the cables in my own time and not pay him to do it...
The seperate concumer unit is one with fuse blocks unlike the main one which has trip switches.

Thanks very much for your help

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Why not replace those flex outlets with sockets, and have the electrician move the cables to the new CU?

 

[waynes]

I did consider that but i am not sure how old it is. Think it may ahve been the original consumer unit which was relegated to just storage heaters.

I will ask the advice of the electrician before I remove it.