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New sockets - from which ring?

The usual way, is to replace the CU, with one large joint box, and connectors/terminals. The tricky part is the new tails, from the meter, to feed the new CU position.
I hadn't thought about a joint box near the old CU location. So this saves re laying all the wires to the CU (In most cases, but I may need it yet).
So long as the main tails reach to the new CU location. It's not a ridiculous job.
 
doesn't quote have the same aesthetics though does it.
For something that would be used somewhere between rarely and never, does that really matter?

For temporary electricity in the unlikely event of a power failure, devices such as this https://bluettipower.co.uk/products/bluetti-ac180-portable-power-station can be had in all kinds of sizes to power anything from a single fridge to most of the house.

Wood burners are sold using fake nostalgia such as how lovely a real fire would be and it's so romantic and with pictures of them burning away next to a traditional high back chair, located in a brick fireplace with solid oak beam above and a view though a distant window with snow on the ground.
The reality is rather different.
 
Wood burners are sold using fake nostalgia such as how lovely a real fire would be and it's so romantic and with pictures of them burning away next to a traditional high back chair, located in a brick fireplace with solid oak beam above and a view though a distant window with snow on the ground.
The reality is rather different.
I feel like that's exactly how it is though if you wanted it to be. Everything but the snow. We don't see a lot of that nowadays.
That's how it feels at my old mans place as he just got one. Granted he did have to buy, chop and store 6 cubic meters of wood in the garden. but you know, it's fun too.

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Please don't.
Expensive to install, use and maintain. Will create vast quantities of toxic pollution both for you, anyone else who lives there and all of the surrounding neighbours.
This is not entirely accurate. The ones that burn well-seasoned wood at a very high temperature have minimal output and are designed for smoke free zones.
 
The ones that burn well-seasoned wood at a very high temperature have minimal output and are designed for smoke free zones.
A theoretical situation, much like diesel cars which can be 'clean' when properly maintained.
Everyone has seen the results of those which are not.

Absolutely nothing to stop people shoving in any old crap like cut up pallets and worse.
Clean air zones are not enforced, and even 'clean' stoves put out substantial quantities of particulates and other toxic chemicals.
 
I prefer to have my boiler, on it's own circuit which enables the entire heating system to be safely isolated, without affecting anything else.
It doesn't need to be "on its own circuit" to achieve that - a simple switch/'isolator', fed from any circuit (which supplies other things) will suffice.

In my house,. the entire CH system (including boiler) is fed via a 13A plug/socket (to facilitate plugging in to a generator supply) on a circuit which also does other things - which, again, achieves the same thing in terms of 'isolation' if/when required.
 
It doesn't need to be "on its own circuit" to achieve that - a simple switch/'isolator', fed from any circuit (which supplies other things) will suffice.

I'm well aware that it doesn't actually need to be on its own circuit, but it has the advantage of my being able to isolate individual circuits (sockets), without it affecting the boiler. Besides, our heating system, was originally wired on its own circuit, not by me, I had a surplus of ways on my new CU, so it would have been foolish, as well as less convenient, to not give it, its own circuit.
 
I'm well aware that it doesn't actually need to be on its own circuit, but it has the advantage of my being able to isolate individual circuits (sockets), without it affecting the boiler. Besides, our heating system, was originally wired on its own circuit, not by me, I had a surplus of ways on my new CU, so it would have been foolish, as well as less convenient, to not give it, its own circuit.
Do they draw much, boilers? I have a sparky round in a few weeks to look at options for new circuits when he puts new CU in. 16amp maybe?
 
Do they draw much, boilers? I have a sparky round in a few weeks to look at options for new circuits when he puts new CU in. 16amp maybe?

Not even a couple of amps, but they are usually fed, when they are fed on their own circuit, by a 6amp MCB/RCBO. The major part of the load, is the circulation pump.
 
I'm well aware that it doesn't actually need to be on its own circuit, but it has the advantage of my being able to isolate individual circuits (sockets), without it affecting the boiler.
Fair enough, but the need to do that would be so rare that losing the boiler for a short period of time would not really be a mjor disaster.
 
FWIW I’ve only come across 1 boiler taking out a socket circuit ... Whereas a socket circuit taking out the boiler is far too common
That dosn't surprise me.

However, I'm not sure that anyone has really suggested otherwise. As I've said, the desire to be able to isolate boiler (e.g. for maintenance) does not require a dedicated circuit, since a switch/'isolator' (or, like mine, a plug/socket) will suffice for that. The only other argument for a dedicated circuit that has been mentioned is so that the boiler is not affected if other circuits are de-energised (e.g. for maintenance) - but, as I've said, that is likely to be so rare, and so brief, as to not really be much of a consideration.
 
Fwiw the circuit our boiler is on also goes to the loft socket and loft light.

It’s really good practice to have many circuits these days. Minimises inconvenience big time
 

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