New value BS1362 fuse

The remote control in question is from a DABMotion in vehicle DAB to FM radio converter thing. It's been faulty for ages and trying to find a station not on one of the 4 favourites was taking so long, 15+ minutes was not unknown so I have decided to finally sort it as I couldn't find a replacement. It's one of these:
dab1001_remote_1.jpg
 
Sponsored Links
Other common devices with them that you may have come across include mice (the ones with balls and/or the ones with a scrollwheel) and iPods (and other similar devices) with scrollwheels. Both our cars have them for things like volume control on the radio.
They are really quite common once you start looking out for them - and then you wonder how you missed all those rotary encoders for so long :whistle:
 
Other common devices with them that you may have come across include mice (the ones with balls and/or the ones with a scrollwheel) and iPods (and other similar devices) with scrollwheels. Both our cars have them for things like volume control on the radio. They are really quite common once you start looking out for them - and then you wonder how you missed all those rotary encoders for so long :whistle:
I think you misunderstood my 'problem'. As Ive said, I'm familiar with the sort of remote encoder you're talking about - hich convert rotary movement into digital output. However, Echo said that it was for a 'remote control', which had me thinking about the ubiquitous TV/audip equipment 'remotes' - and I've never seen one of those which has anything remotely (sorry :) ) 'rotary' about it. I therefore thought that he was probably talking about something totally different, which did not involve mechanical 'rotation'!

Kind Regards, John
 
and I've never seen one of those which has anything remotely (sorry :) ) 'rotary' about it.

So you never had a VCR with one of these bricks to control it with?

s-l300.jpg
 
Sponsored Links
Well the 20A fuses have arrived, the construction is quite real looking compared to many of the fakes I have seen. The fuse element is a very thin ribbon and the end caps are plated brass. I'll put some current though them when I get 5 minutes and see what happens.
 
Well I've just started doing some tests, I have 4.5KW connected to the fuse, current shown on clamp meter 18.4A after 1 minute the fuse is at 100°C and the printing is fading away.
upload_2016-9-17_17-8-29.jpeg

At 3 minutes it is at 150°C.
upload_2016-9-17_17-8-10.jpeg
 
Well I've just started doing some tests, I have 4.5KW connected to the fuse, current shown on clamp meter 18.4A after 1 minute the fuse is at 100°C and the printing is fading away. ... At 3 minutes it is at 150°C
Interesting. As a matter of further interest, for comparison, could you perhaps investigate what the corresponding temps are with a load of ~3kW being supplied via a ('legitimate' brand) 13A BS1362 fuse?

Kind Regards, John
 
I have been, after around 6 minutes, the 13A fuse was about 60°C, at 12 minutes no increase.


The 20A fuse is now at 177°C even though there is only a little over 18A flowing.
 
I have been, after around 6 minutes, the 13A fuse was about 60°C, at 12 minutes no increase. The 20A fuse is now at 177°C even though there is only a little over 18A flowing.
Again interesting. This obviously begs the question as to what the 'fuse wire' in the 20A one is. I wonder if it might be a re-labelled 13A one? Why not try putting your ~18A through a 13A fuse and see what happens (it shouldn't blow below about 22A)?

Kind Regards, John
 
Who knows. I put another 20A fuse in the plug of the 3KW heater and a 13A fuse in the extension lead. At 3 minutes the 20A fuse is at 100°C and the 13A fuse is at 160°C. An MK 'safety plug' is used in both positions with the cover resting on top.
 
Who knows. I put another 20A fuse in the plug of the 3KW heater and a 13A fuse in the extension lead. At 3 minutes the 20A fuse is at 100°C and the 13A fuse is at 160°C.
Hmmm - I suppose that goes to show a number of things - one of which is that we shouldn't be too hasty in 'condemning' the 20A fuse (other than for the obvious reason that it shouldn't exist!).

Kind Regards, John
 
As there is no change, new fuses again, 24A load, 13A fuse exceeded 270°C which is all the thermal cam can read, plug too hot to touch and fuse blew at 5 minutes.

24A load, 20A fuse now, at 6 minutes it hasn't blown but has gone brown and is burning the MK plug, the fuse is emitting smoke at 15 minutes.
at 26 minutes the fuse hasn't blown yet it is dangerously hot. The 13A fuse got very hot before it blew, but not to the point of damaging the plug. The plug is burned, the fuse is smoking and it stinks like hell. At these temperatures I would have expected the fuse to have opened by now. Temperature of plug cover is now 170°C Fuse blew after 34 minutes, plug is damaged and not suitable for reuse.

Opening both 13A and 20A fuses they both failed differently.
The 13A fuse appears to have no damage and the fuse element was not visible when broken open.
The 20A fuse appears burnt, the printing has turned black and the ceramic has discoloured, the fuse element was still visible when opened and had just a small gap where it opened, it appeared more as a crack with no sign of balls on the ends of the wire common with melting.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top