New window in a stone wall

[sjwood0]

Hi folks

I'm after some guidance please. I'm planning to convert a coal store to a downstairs toilet. I'm going to add a frosted double glazed wooden window to let some light in. I've searched utube for suitable how-to videos but nothing shows this exact process. I had it in my mind as something like below.

1. Buy a window and mark out it's measurements on the wall.
2. Fit the lintels using acro props and strong boys whilst doing so.
3. Cut the window hole using an angle grinder.. but won't that leave a sharp looking edge on a soft sandstone wall?
4. Drill some holes on the inside edge of the wall to screw the window frame in to.
5. Use some kind of mastic all round the edge of the frame to make it waterproof.. Any ideas what sort or type is best?

Are there steps missing here or is anything wrong please?

Steve

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Got a photo? Cutting a hole will look horrific.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Got a photo? Cutting a hole will look horrific.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Got a photo? Cutting a hole will look horrific.

 

[endecotp]

Make the hole first, then order a window to the final dimensions.

Get a stonemason to make the stone look right. Maybe it's possible to cut the existing stone and then dress it in situ, more likely not.

A photo of one of your existing windows would be helpful.

 

[stuart45]

I've done similar jobs in solid stone random rubble walls. It's best to make sure it's well propped with needles and then make a big enough hole to build up the jambs neatly.
Put the timber frame in position, then build it in using frame cramps built in as you go.
Put the lintel in and build up to the stone work.
Once the needles are out fill in the holes.

 

[sjwood0]

Thanks folks

Below is a photo, the window will be about 300mm above the white wooden coal shute door that's visible. So if I've understood people's advice correctly I should take individual stones out and build up to the window frame (meaning I should probably get that first). Then using something like these http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Galvanised-Safe-Edge-Frame-Cramp-50x100mm/p/240024 attach the frame to the inside edge of the wall. What about the sealant will something like this do? Also does anyone know where might stock the thick lintels used in the windows to the right and what's the term for the one at the base of the window as I always thought the sill was just the wooden overhang section which is part of the wooden frame?

http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsen...EJXiyVq9Tdg7oyL480zPx-b2LGA3pNwdn0aAscw8P8HAQ

Thanks for all your help

Steve

 

[stuart45]

That type of stonework is easier to prop than random rubble.
http://www.acanthuscaststone.co.uk/products/headscills.html
Somewhere like this for the lintel and cill.
Those are frame cramps for timber windows.
Do you know the exact construction of your walls?

 

[theprinceofdarkness]

I have put in/altered 8 windows in my rock and rubble cottage in Wensleydale. No need for wooden frame, hide cut edges of blocks by rendering the external window reveals. As my walls are 24" thick, I splayed all the internal reveals, lets in a lot more light. Line all the internal reveals with something like aqua panel, otherwise you will have mould growing in them. I used recovered limestone lintels. The one in the photograph look a bit too perfect, are they painted concrete? Because, if not, they could be of marginal strength, due to faults within the stone.
For a stone mason, try Calverts in Leyburn
Frank

 

[stuart45]

No need for wooden frame.
Frank

Not talking about putting a timber frame in Frank. Put the timber window frame in and build the stone jambs to it.

 

[sjwood0]

Hi

That type of stonework is easier to prop than random rubble.
http://www.acanthuscaststone.co.uk/products/headscills.html
Somewhere like this for the lintel and cill.
Those are frame cramps for timber windows.
Do you know the exact construction of your walls?

Thanks Stuart, the walls are an external wall of stone, a cavity then a wall of brick. Regarding the windows I am using timber double glazing so are those not the right sort of frame clamps? When you talk about the stone jambs am I right in thinking you mean something like this http://www.buxtonarchitecturalstone.co.uk/2010/03/architectural-masonry/ is there a way to do it without those as I'm trying to make it look as close to the existing windows as possible. If not I'm sure I can make that look right if I take my time. For the lintels I might use some of these http://www.buxtonarchitecturalstone.co.uk/2010/03/architectural-masonry/

Steve

 

[sjwood0]

I have put in/altered 8 windows in my rock and rubble cottage in Wensleydale. No need for wooden frame, hide cut edges of blocks by rendering the external window reveals. As my walls are 24" thick, I splayed all the internal reveals, lets in a lot more light. Line all the internal reveals with something like aqua panel, otherwise you will have mould growing in them. I used recovered limestone lintels. The one in the photograph look a bit too perfect, are they painted concrete? Because, if not, they could be of marginal strength, due to faults within the stone.
For a stone mason, try Calverts in Leyburn
Frank

Thanks Frank, do you have a photo or a link to something similar so I can see what you mean?

 

[stuart45]

Steve,
The jambs are also known as the reveals. They are just the masonry next to the window opening. What I meant was to put the frame in place in the opening created and build it in.
An alternative way is what you said about cutting through the stonework, but building the frame in is a neater job.
Rendering up the reveals won't match the rest of your windows, but it's up to you.
The frame cramps should be fine.

 

[sjwood0]

Steve,
The jambs are also known as the reveals. They are just the masonry next to the window opening. What I meant was to put the frame in place in the opening created and build it in.
An alternative way is what you said about cutting through the stonework, but building the frame in is a neater job.
Rendering up the reveals won't match the rest of your windows, but it's up to you.
The frame cramps should be fine.

OK thanks Stuart then that's what I'll do. Would you still use some kind of silicone sealant between the window frame and the masonry or just stone and mortar right up to the frame?

Thanks
Steve

 

[stuart45]

The stone would be built right up to the frame. On cavity walls built years ago a piece of 6 inch vertical DPC would be tacked to the side of the frame and the inner brickwork built to return to the facework.