Newbie moving and blanking sockets

[FrostyZX6R]

Hi there, first post on here.

I'm doing up a spare room and want to move one socket and blank off another. I've attached a picture to help with the explanation. I'm told the room used to be a kitchen years ago and so has one or two random blanking plates and switches tha tseem to do nothing.

It's a plasterboard wall which has 1 fused switch (no socket) and a 2 way switched socket. Both of these stand proud of the wall (not flush fit) and I want to put a wardrobe there which needs to be right up against the wall.

What I want to do is get rid of the fused switch (this seems to have no effect on any other socket when switched on or off). A flush blanking plate would be fine as far as finish is concerned as the wardrobe will cover it. Also, I want to relocate the double socket round the corner of the wall, preferably with a flush fit 3 or 4 way replacement.

I understand and have read about cutting out the palster board and fitting recessed boxes but have some hopefully very simple questions about the electrics:

Blanking plate - Do you just connect witres to 'dead end' terminals in these? Are there different types?

2 way to 3 or 4 way socket - Will I have to modify the wiring, or can the existing power the new socket?

Cable lengthening - What's the best connection method? Are choc-blocs fine?

Any advice much appreciated.


Cheers,

Frosty

Untitled

• FrostyZX6R
• 30 Jun 2009
• 1

 

[ericmark]

Cables buried in walls must be identified by a socket, blanking plate, switch etc. and have to run vertical or horizontal to it. Not both or diagonal.
A blanking plate does not have any electrical connection you would normally fit some connector block in the box. But it will not make the whole unit flush if originally surface.
Any new cable buried in walls need either RCD protection or need to be one of the allowed types like Ali-tube (not twin and earth).
All new sockets also need RCD protection for a single extra socket an RCD socket would be OK if supplied with Ali-tube cable.
Be aware the one shown is an "Active" socket that means if you get a power cut the socket will remain off until you push the button. A "Passive" RCD will not auto trip with a power cut.
Normal unfused sockets come in single or double outlet types and a single unit can be connected to a spur but you are not allowed to spur from a spur you can only spur direct from ring.
Thriple outlets will have a fuse built into the unit some are designed to fit in a double socket box but the one shown needs a Three gang box The ones requiring only two gang are called converter sockets if the wall is plaster board the are special back boxes called dry lining boxes but they do tend to stick a little proud of wall and care is needed selecting socket to match box.

 

[FrostyZX6R]

Thanks for that. Didin't know about those dry lining boxes, they look like they could save me a bit of hassle.

So what connectors would I most likely need for the single fused switch which I want to cover with a blanking plate?

 

[wingcoax]

Your "single fused switch " is probable still active, try immersion heater/towel rail or any other appliance. How many wires to rear of sw? If more than 2 then it is probably part of a ring feeding a spur.

 

[ericmark]

I would look at a Cooker outlet looks like a blanking plate but has terminals in it or Terminal Blocks 30A a screwfix catalogue may help you web pages only OK when you know what your looking for flicking through catalogue gives you ideas.

Do remember all electrical installations should be tested.

 

[FrostyZX6R]

Your "single fused switch " is probable still active, try immersion heater/towel rail or any other appliance. How many wires to rear of sw? If more than 2 then it is probably part of a ring feeding a spur.

Absolutely no idea what this goes to. It's always switched off and everything in the flat works. Like I say, this is a 1930s flat and has had the kitchen and spare room swapped around at some point (mains water tap is in spare room!). There are phantom switches and blanking plates in most rooms.

More than 2 wires to the rear by the way.