Not able to get alternative outside bulb to work

Joined
14 Oct 2015
Messages
148
Reaction score
4
Country
United Kingdom
Hi there,
My house comes with the below light fitting and energy saver bulb. I have been trying to get my LED bulb to work in the light housing. I bought an adaptor that will allow a screw bulb to connect, but whenever I connect it, it is just dead. Is there a difference in voltage or something I am missing? I keep the light sensor covered, but it makes no difference. The original energy saver works every time, but my LED bulb does nothing.

Photo_25-07-2018_17_36_08_-_Copy.jpg


Photo_25-07-2018_17_36_12_-_Copy.jpg


Photo_25-07-2018_17_36_17_-_Copy.jpg


Photo_25-07-2018_17_36_22_-_Copy.jpg


Photo_25-07-2018_17_36_44_-_Copy.jpg


Photo_25-07-2018_17_36_49_-_Copy.jpg

This is the original energy saving bulb^^^^^
 
Sponsored Links
The original is a compact fluorescent lamp.
The LED lamp will not work unless you redo some wiring to the lampholder.
 
Data sheet show original gives 1200 lumen with a life of 10,000 hours using a magnetic ballast, with a electronic ballast you will have a higher lumen output and a longer life by up to 1/3rd extra so around 90 lumen per watt.

The bulb is also 90 lumen per watt with around the same life so why change from fluorescent to LED only thing it does is make the lamp dimmer if you can get it to work.

The all integral compact fluorescent made into the shape of a bulb was rather useless, but the larger units worked well, there is no real gain going from fluorescent to LED other than ability to reduce the lumen output.

Yes the magnetic ballast with a fluorescent was inefficient and very voltage dependent, but the HF electronic ballast is a very different beast, and the magnetic ballast has been phased out, so there is really no point moving from a fluorescent with electronic ballast to LED.
 
Sponsored Links
Thanks for your posts guys. In my last house, it had just standard light bulbs - the ones you can buy these days for 50p in the shops.\

The main reason I want to use LED is because the bulbs I have connect to a hub and so automatically come on and off at certain times. All I need to do is cover the darkness sensor, as the bulbs can tell from the hub what time it is and how light/dark it is. It sounds like it is going to be complicated to get these to work.

Just to clarify, if I removed the current light housing, would there be standard 240 volt cabling behind such that if I changed the housing, I would be able to effectively put in any light I fancied?
 
Just to clarify, if I removed the current light housing, would there be standard 240 volt cabling behind such that if I changed the housing, I would be able to effectively put in any light I fancied?

Yes.

As above. The internals of the fitting are to designed to only work with a fluorescent 4-pin lamp. It will not work with an LED lamp without some serious re-wiring of the guts of it.
 
Yes.

As above. The internals of the fitting are to designed to only work with a fluorescent 4-pin lamp. It will not work with an LED lamp without some serious re-wiring of the guts of it.
Thank you, all makes sense!
 
It depends on make of bulb, I also have some rooms connected to a hub to control lights, I use energy genie and mainly fitted so no need to fit two way switching, when I looked into if however there seems to be no standard and in some cases they use so much power when off they are simply not worth using.

Philips 9W lamp uses 0.1W which is not bad, but some are up to 1W on standby. However LED's don't last forever so to have a smart switch and cheap bulb is likely better idea.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top