Oil Boiler will not continue to run

[gremlin16]

You could do what I did, bought a oil pressure gauge kit, smoke pump and flue gas analyser, that seems to work for me

Cost you about a £1000

Seeing you played with settings on pump it might be cheaper to call an OFTEC engineer out, unless you want to buy a commissioning kit

 

[leakydave]

How did you 'clean' the nozzle????? You even touch it and you might as well fit a new one...

 

[softoptions]

well gremlin16

What is the point of you being on this forum. The Idea of forums is to help other people with experiences and knowledge so that you may help others.

So far to every question I have asked you asked me another in reply and so far not given me a simple yes , no or may be. If you have no Idea then Then please refrain from comments.

Did I mention anything about moving the pressure screw or did I ask if this could cause a similar problem?

 

[softoptions]

Hi leakydave I took the nozzle out cleaned around the metal filtre. Took filter of and blew through it. Reasembled and put back

I do have one on order, should be here early next week.

 

[gremlin16]

What about pump pressure. I've read a number of threads where it is mentioned that you should never touch the screw that regulates pump pressure. What does this do and could this create a simillar problem to what I am having.

Did I mention anything about moving the pressure screw or did I ask if this could cause a similar problem?

How was I to know you haven't played with pressure?

Any way as you mentioned the forum is to help people then I will try once more, but I feel it will fall on deaf ears.

basically a pressure jet burner is very like a combustion engine. There is only so much you can repair yourself, and both need to burn fuel efficiently.

The equipment we invest in to service and commission oil boilers ensure we can set them to manufacturers instructions. Now without them its down to guess work.

Its obvious you have this problem after running out of oil.

There is an easy fix or you can go down the expensive way and start changing every individual component.

The cheapest way is to call a qualified installer, easy.

finally there is a limit to how much any installer can actually resolve on a forum.
You can try the following

Can you prove theres no water contamination in oil?

How do you know the oil line has been bled properly

Without gauges you wont be able to check pump pressure or vacuum side.

The list is endless, and as I already mentioned, call an oil engineer out to check it out.

If that is not acceptable to you then I will gladly list the parts that you can change yourself.

 

[softoptions]

How do you know the oil line has been bled properly

When the bleed screw on the pump is opened I can run oil of into a container through a clear tube with no sign of bubbles.

Can you prove theres no water contamination in oil?

I can not prove this 100% however as the system has been run on and off for the past week I would of thought that if there was any water contamination it would have gone by now.

[/quote]basically a pressure jet burner is very like a combustion engine. There is only so much you can repair yourself, and both need to burn fuel efficiently

I under stand this, but as an engineer myself I also know that these types of devices have certain tolerances and as such will run even if not set 100% as you say they may not run efficiently.

 

[gremlin16]

run on and off for the past week I would of thought that if there was any water contamination it would have gone by now.

I take it boiler has been ok for a while after tank refill?

 

[softoptions]

no not been ok. When I say it ran on off I mean ran 20 second stops.Press reset Runs for 1hr stops press reset runs 20 mins stops and so on till I get fed up of pressing switch.

Just to let you know I do leave boiler a good time before pressing switch.

I have also noticed that If I run the system wait for 20 seconds for it to cut out then restart it. Then use the thermostat valve to switch it off after a minute when I restart it it sound if the electrode continue to spark until it shuts down after 20second period. Are the electrode permanently on or are they on just to ignite fuel in the first place?

 

[gremlin16]

The burner is:

EDGB Oil Burner
and the boiler is a trianco

the oil pump is danfoss the control unit is BHO -12.1 photocell danfoss ld

Which Trianco is it, and roughly how old.?

 

[softoptions]

This is a trianco stewart model no. tso 65/85 serial no 69/0147

The burner so I am lead to belive is later and was not original fit.

I can not tell you how old as we bought this second hand three years ago.

Thanks

 

[MANDATE]

The control box allows power for the transformer and motor/oil pump for about 20 secs. It requires the flame to be estabished within that time or it goes to lockout.
If there's no problem lighting it, then I'd be looking at the photo cell or the control box. Have you tested the photo cell.

 

[softoptions]

hi Mandate

How do I go about testing photocell?

I have not done this.

 

[MANDATE]

Well it's basically just a switch. So detach or unplug it and use a continuity meter on the two wires. In darkness there will be no continuity but there should be in good daylight.
The control box is designed to allow the boiler to light up, but if a flame is not established within about 20 secs it goes to lockout. It's the flame that provides the light to keep the photo cell switch closed.
Of course the control box itself may be at fault.
I had a old and faulty 'petercam' one, which I examined and found a small heating element which took it 20 secs to break the power circuit, unless of course power was provided via the photo cell, which I think operated a relay and cut the power to the heating element.

However with a new control box, I bench tested it first.
Wired in a bulb and bulb holder to represent the transformer and electrodes. Another bulb and bulb holder to represent the motor/pump assembley. And yet another to represent the solinoid.
Wired in the photo cell and put the cell inside a blanked off tube to keep it dark.
The bulbs operated exactly as they should. Went to lockout if I didn't remove the photo cell. or if I did then replace it or cover it.

I've have been further and run my boiler without a control box.
Supplied 3 separate 'switched'power supplies to operate transformer motor/pump and solinoid.
ie transformer ON, followed by motor/pump ON, followed by soliniod ON, boiler lights then, followed by transformer OFF.
Kept boiler running for about 10 minutes (no thermostat) then fitted control box.

 

[softoptions]

Hi again Mandate

Thanks for the straight forward answer. Took photocell out and tested with multimeter no connectivity either with light on or off. Looks like i need a new one of these.

Thanks to all other replies to this question and I will let you all know when I replace the cell and if it then works.

 

[MANDATE]

Just enquiring if your problem has now been solved.