old plaster, for tiling onto?

Joined
15 Apr 2005
Messages
16,510
Reaction score
265
Location
Yorkshire
Country
United Kingdom
I have started stripping back my bathroom. The room was previously completely tiled, but on taking off tiles, the plaster appears to be the original plaster (100 yrs old), where when you remove the top surface, underneath is completely crumbling away. Where the plaster has not been disturbed it appears to be in good condition.

I have only removed two tiles, but this is making me worry now. If more of the wall (or vast chunks of it) come away with the tiles, What can I do to the wall as a quick (and cheap) fix to get a tile-able surface? I am using a product called "no more ply" on the floor, which is a waterproof cementboard, it also says its ok on walls. Could I use this, adhered to the old plaster?

Or is it shovel time?! The no more ply also states it is ok on bare brick providing everything is primed first - but if I was taking the wall back to brick I would take the opportunity to build a stud frame and insulate - it is a solid double wall, thus very cold and prone to condensation.
 
Sponsored Links
1John's remedy is an excellent way to go, however, just a thought:

my take on the above is that tho quick, it can sometimes create difficulties at the reveals and the door frame/trim, plus, in a pre-1914 bathroom, there is precious little room/footprint to lose.

I prefer to hack-off, and render in scratch and float, skimming the top third in remedial finish - just as in damp proof work.
I'd leave the top third free from tile, given that a full bathroom, full height tile can create heavy condensation.

Another advantage of floating is that "perfect" plumbness and ninety degree inside corners can be guaranteed for the tiler.

Disadvantages are that it req's more time, a spread, and lots of mess, and no insulation( unless a different method is used.)
 
2ways to play this hack off float with OCR and devil float or hack off stud Ann's fix tile backer board
 
Sponsored Links
Would the quickest / easiest option be to hack off and dot n dab boards on? Would this be acceptable to tile onto? I have just had a plumber survey the bathroom for when he comes to fit the suite and he said this would be his choice.

I'm a competent DIYer, would you say I could attempt this myself? I would need to know what plaster mix to use to dot n dab with, do I need to prep the brick in any way? And what type of board?

To tile onto, would the plasterboard surface need skimming, or could I just tile onto the board? If it needs skimming I will get a plasterer in to do the lot.

Cheers!
 
You can PB the areas that are dry and backer board the areas that get wet.

If you PB them you use plasterboard addy then drill and plug through the dabs.
 
are you planning on using large format tiles then id use a lot more dot and dab more then normal.
and drill and fix
as for tiling yer id prime the areas with a good primer first then just tile straight onto the boards or tile backer boards id use moisture resident plaster board in the bath room but in really wet areas (ie)
in the shower use tile backer board any type.
scrim tape all the joints and roller on a nice coat of thistle BOND-IT ready for skiming in the areas that are not tiled.
if you get a spread in to skim then he mite just PVA the boards first before plastering and not use (bond_it) each plasterer too there own)

sorry i forgot to say hack off any dodgy gear first if its all pritty much sound then scrape off any bits dot and dab over the top try and fill any holes with dot&dab.
if it all needs to come off then hack off brush off the walls ther brush in a 70/30 PVA mix to help with key and stop dust sorted
 
Have you consdiered leaving exisiting plaster insitu and putting framing in front of it to accept boards and then tiles, you could also put insulation in the cavity created to improve thermal performance. Appreciate this will loose you some space but a lot less mess and fuss than removing the old plaster. There is a system called gyplyner Universal from British Gypsum or you could stick with timber studwork. Note the BG system would have the advantage of allowing you to square up the walls as the brackets are adjustable, have a look at www.british-gypsum.com. Further this BG do do a board call Tilebacker which is specifically designed for dirrectly tiling onto.
 
Thanks for the advice so far, I am going to take the plaster off and board it. But, i had an idea, is insulation backed plasterboard available at all builders merchants? or only some? I have an independent just Down the road I use from time to time. It'd be nice to incorporate insulation into this project, but no hardship if its not available. Also how would I apply that backed board to a brick wall?

All I am doing this to is the two external bathroom walls, as the two internal walls are laths and have already been overboarded with modern plasterboard.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Sponsored Links
Back
Top