Opinion of my mains installation wanted

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Hi Guys,

Have been lurking on this site for a while now and have enjoyed reading many of the topics, mainly in the Electrics UK. I have always had a keen interest in electric and wanted to be an electrician, things as always don’t work out how you plan and I’m now an IT/Network/Comms technician, closest I come to electric at work is where I plug an appliance into the wall - lol!

As I grew up over the years I basically self taught myself about electrics, although obviously not to a professional level and have for many years maintained the installation at my home and have done odd jobs for friends and family. Obviously with part p now in place I don’t do anything major now except change the odd light or socket.

I have done two total house re-wires, one about 5 years ago and the other about 4 years ago, both were tested and certified by an electrician afterwards with no issues raised.

My own home is no exception and I have also rewired it though not completely, small story here so please bear with me. Original mains wiring in braided T&E fed from brown wylex fuse box with one newer lighting circuit to kitchen extension. House lighting circuit in steel conduit wired with red/black waxy covered cable fed from push/pull 15amp isolator, round toggle switches and twisted flex pendants throughout. Whole house protected by ELCB.

By pure luck a light switch failed (this must be at least 10 years ago now) and an electrician was summoned as I was way too young to be messing with mains electrics back then. Basically he condemned the lighting circuit and provided a quote along with other work we requested (extra power points etc...) which was Okayed and work commenced. Basically the lighting circuit was replaced and wired with 1mm T&E and Ashley accessories, most of which sill remain, some power points converted from singles to doubles and one extra installed in kitchen as the only socket we had out there was on the cooker control unit. Mains wiring retained and sockets in bedroom (oval mk ones) moved from skirting board to just above on wall. New MK consumer unit fitted with RCD to protect entire installation and mcb's to protect circuits. This CU is still in service and can be seen in the pics below.

About 4 years ago I decided to re-wire the mains circuits as we wanted extra sockets upstairs and I didn’t think it made sense to wire onto the old braided T&E when I had the floorboards up anyway. So the ring main was replaced and extended, so was the immersion heater circuit, new 20 amp radial to back lounge and kitchen installed (3 extra double points in kitchen and one in the lounge), 1mm supply to lights replaced with 1.5mm then split in JB to upstairs circuit(1mm) downstairs(1mm) and extension(1mm) circuits - should have split to at least two circuits perhaps but space on CU didn’t allow this and loading was and still is low so isn’t an issue. Cooker circuit untouched as didn’t need changing, however kitchen refit meant that cooker control unit was replaced, same time as install of extra sockets. All additional new sockets/switches were MK downstairs and contactum upstairs old MK oval sockets upstairs were replaced for contactum doubles and at least one other double fitted in each room.

So that’s how it all stayed until about a year ago when due to the Christmas lights I put up each year putting what I called a heavy load on the ring main (prob about 20 amps in total) I decided to install some new circuits to power the Christmas lights and the shed power etc.. during the year, keeping them separate from the house circuits so any faults can be isolated without affecting power to the house. As my original CU is full (only 5 ways) I could either replace it or install a second CU, replacing it would have been awkward due to where it’s installed so I decided to install a second one which would be fed from the original. So new CU installed and new circuits run and terminated, lighting circuit removed from old CU and moved to new one, 50amp mcb installed in old CU and 10mm T&E used to supply power to new CU (total length about 2 metres). Should ideally have put 50amp mcb nearest the main switch but didn’t want to have to rewire and re-terminate my already very tidy CU and loading will hardly ever exceed 25 amps (30 max) anyway. If the new CU were to ever supply an electric shower (don’t have one but have left a spare way next to main switch for it) then I would have an isolator fitted to the tails by my supplier and Henley both units to it with 25mm tails, and of course fit an RCD to the second CU. Although if we have a combi boiler fitted (may do sometime soon) id rather go down the power shower route. Another point I suspect may be raised is that the entire installation is protected by an RCD rather than being split, we have never had any nuisance tripping and apart from the lights I prefer all circuits on an RCD anyway, it just gives me peace of mind.

Anyway so circuits on new CU are 32amp 6mm T&E to outside power cabinet in passage feeds MK DP metal clad isolator which feeds 4 double MK metal clad sockets. 20amp radial to 2 double sockets in front bedroom, 6 amp circuit for house lights.

Part P I believe had come into effect when I fitted the new CU so I know I have been a little naughty.

I have included some pics below of the installation and I would welcome any comments (good or bad) or advice that you may have. My installation has never been professionally tested and has not had a PIR. Though I have nothing concrete to back this up I believe it’s a perfectly safe install and if a PIR were to be done I’d hope that there would only be minimal (if any) remedial work required. Service fuse fitted is a 60amp, this was confirmed when meter was changed a while back, supply is overhead and so we have an earth rod outside the front door and the tails to the CU are 25mm.

Please take a look at this pics and reply back with any comments or questions you have.

Full size photos can be found here http://www.dtenterprises.co.uk/cu

Cheers
Dan

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danny, sorry just skimmed over what you wrote, is it a TT installation i.e. has it got an earth rod?
 
The mains all looks fine, and a nice tidy job inside the CU's.

With your supply being a TT supply, you need to have RCD protection to all the circuits (which you have).

What a shame MK can't leave their circuit breaker design alone, it spoils the look of the installation for me.

Did you install an extra earth along side the submain cable to DB2? as the earth in a 10.0mm² T+E isn't really big enough.

With out seeing the rest of the install or testing I can't say for sure, but it looks pretty good to me.
 
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I'd have actually installed a bigger CU where you have put that new submain board and taken the tails directly into it and moved all the circuits off the old CU and if extending was neccessary then used an adaptable box where the old CU was.

Can really see any problems with what you have done, except everything on one 30ma is not really a good idea (standard practice on TT is split load overall protected with 100ma (or 300ma depending on Ze) time delay and 30ma for the sockets etc (and the immer - don't want that taking out the lights when it goes kaput) also mis-matched breakers look a bit ****, but at least they are all the same make (but I do believe MK changed their design, I'd say use the retro fit kit in the old CU and only use new breakers in the new CU)

Can't see anything really that untoward, but I'd obviously say if you are worried to get a PIR
 
RF Lighting said:
Did you install an extra earth along side the submain cable to DB2? as the earth in a 10.0mm² T+E isn't really big enough.

I'd beg to differ... with TT your prospective earth fault current will be low (unless its mad artifically high by bonding to metal services shared with PME'd neighbours), pop that into the adiabatic... and I'm sure you'll get a favourable answer ;)
 
whats with MK putting the main incomer in the middle of the board? :eek: theres sooo much space at the left! for what? a sticky label telling you how to turn it on and off. :confused:
 
Adam_151 said:
RF Lighting said:
Did you install an extra earth along side the submain cable to DB2? as the earth in a 10.0mm² T+E isn't really big enough.

I'd beg to differ... with TT your prospective earth fault current will be low (unless its mad artifically high by bonding to metal services shared with PME'd neighbours), pop that into the adiabatic... and I'm sure you'll get a favourable answer ;)

:oops: :oops: Err, yeah, ahem. I was forward planning for a TT to PME upgrade.
Yeah that's it. ;)
 
RF Lighting said:
Adam_151 said:
RF Lighting said:
Did you install an extra earth along side the submain cable to DB2? as the earth in a 10.0mm² T+E isn't really big enough.

I'd beg to differ... with TT your prospective earth fault current will be low (unless its mad artifically high by bonding to metal services shared with PME'd neighbours), pop that into the adiabatic... and I'm sure you'll get a favourable answer ;)

:oops: :oops: Err, yeah, ahem. I was forward planning for a TT to PME upgrade.
Yeah that's it. ;)

:D :LOL: :LOL:
I'll have to remember that one!
 
Hi Guys,

Many thanks for all your replies...

RF,
Yeah the different designs are a pain, but i don't stare at the CU so I'm not too bothered, would be nice if they stuck to one design for more than ten minutes at least. Yes as well as the T&E earth a separate 10mm has been run from the earth bar in DB1 to DB2.

Adam,
I'm not worried about the install at all, just valued peoples opinions on here as to what i have and if any changes or checks were adviseable. Installing a totally new CU would have involved pulling the service fuse which while I'm capable of doing its sealed and I'd like to keep it that way, plus it would have meant having the power off for at least a day and would have been a very long job when i didn't really want to ditch the very neatly wired :D old CU, whereas installing the second CU only meant a brief power outage while i moved the lighting circuit and connected up the new CU. A 100ma RCD is something i will definately look into if nuisance tripping occurs, as it is its never tripped without cause and i do have an emergency light if the power does fail.

Crafty,
Totally agree with you what a waste, maybe thats why the MK stuff is so expensive, well someones got to pay for all that extra space may as well be the customer :)

Cheers guys
Dan
 
dannyboi2003 said:
A 100ma RCD is something i will definately look into if nuisance tripping occurs, as it is its never tripped without cause and i do have an emergency light if the power does fail.
You'd need to install a split-load board for that, as the sockets have to remain on a 30mA.
 
Carlsberg dont do forum posts, but if they did, they'd be like this one.

Good post Dannyboi, if only all posts were like this one :)
 
Hi Guys,

Ban,
Would definitely fit split load CU if 100ma RCD is to be fitted but as nuisance tripping doesn't occur its not something i'll be looking to do or have done at the moment.

Job,
LOL! :LOL:
 
Hey Dannyboi, why don't you ditch all that IT malarky and become a real sparky!
 
Hi Jeep,

I have also thought about doing this and as i work in a college i am in an ideal situation. The college actively encourages staff development and would allow me to attend any of the courses the college offers, i'm thinking of doing a few electrical qualifications (part time) and maybe one day change jobs. All a very long way off and as i'm very happy in my current job i haven't any immediate plans to move but it would give me an option should anything in my life ever change.

All the best
Dan
 

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