I recently finished a beech floor, applied the Osmo Hardwax, (first coat) and have started to apply the second coat, but I have noticed that the first coat has overlapping dark areas where I guess I applied to slowly as the edge was drying too fast… anyway, there are noticeable dark ares where this has happened. I have tried lightly sanding the overlap, but it makes no difference, also a second coat hardly makes a difference… do I need to sand completely and start again??? Help please.
OSMO WAX overlap staining?? Help
- Thread starter kevinweet
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I think after consideration I will sand the floor and start again, not only are there overlap ‘stain’ marks, but also there are sanding scratch marks visible too. So, that was about $$$$ wasted in Osmo oil! It costs a dam fortune here in NZ!!!! Any one know of a company who would post some out to me from the UK?
Sanding errors do tend to show up the minute you apply any type of finish on it - not just Osmo.
Resand and use a decent sander this time. Overlapping is a know fact, you should not pore the oil on the floor when you first start but in a tray and apply small areas at the time. Apply the oil, then immediately go over it with a buffing pad or non-fluffy cloth to spread it out more evenly and over non-treated areas. This will prevent most of the overlapping "borders".
Let it dry and apply a second coat the same way within 48 hours. Small overlapping colour effects will fade over time (rather quickly though)
Resand and use a decent sander this time. Overlapping is a know fact, you should not pore the oil on the floor when you first start but in a tray and apply small areas at the time. Apply the oil, then immediately go over it with a buffing pad or non-fluffy cloth to spread it out more evenly and over non-treated areas. This will prevent most of the overlapping "borders".
Let it dry and apply a second coat the same way within 48 hours. Small overlapping colour effects will fade over time (rather quickly though)
You'll find that Osmo wax/oil will instantly tone down a beech floor and any overlap, not rubbed in well will be visible.
Start by using a very soft brush, you can buy osmo application brushes but you can also use a "wallpaper pasting brush" with very fine tightly packed hairs and dip the brush rather than pouring the oil on the floor.
Apply very thinly on first coat and always work along the grain. If you need to stop at any point stop at the oedg of a plank.
As WYL says, a buffing pad or cloth is also a good idea!!
Good luck
Start by using a very soft brush, you can buy osmo application brushes but you can also use a "wallpaper pasting brush" with very fine tightly packed hairs and dip the brush rather than pouring the oil on the floor.
Apply very thinly on first coat and always work along the grain. If you need to stop at any point stop at the oedg of a plank.
As WYL says, a buffing pad or cloth is also a good idea!!
Good luck
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medium coarse straight after applying it works best.
Spent four days sanding using large orbital floor finishing sander… I thought it was looking great, but there are fine, no, hardly perceptible circular scratches on the floor, which when I tried a test spot with the wax oil, look awful. I started off with 40 girt on the sander, then went to 80grit, then 120 grit.
The sander I hired (best I could find locally) had a plastic rough toothed pad on the bottom, to which I had to slap on a pink scotchbright pad which gripped the paper by friction. When I say friction, the hire shop supplied paper which they had glued together back to back so that it had a grip surface as well as a working surface… is this usual? The thing I did think about (afterwards) was that they had glued different grit size papers together, so that for instance if I was sanding with a 120 grit, it was backed with a 40 grit, and I thought that it would have only taken one speck of grit from the 40 grit backing paper to fall off and ruin the job……. Does that sound feasible?
So, I now have a floor that looks perfect, but has thousands of small circular scratches…. Any advice please?
The sander I hired (best I could find locally) had a plastic rough toothed pad on the bottom, to which I had to slap on a pink scotchbright pad which gripped the paper by friction. When I say friction, the hire shop supplied paper which they had glued together back to back so that it had a grip surface as well as a working surface… is this usual? The thing I did think about (afterwards) was that they had glued different grit size papers together, so that for instance if I was sanding with a 120 grit, it was backed with a 40 grit, and I thought that it would have only taken one speck of grit from the 40 grit backing paper to fall off and ruin the job……. Does that sound feasible?
So, I now have a floor that looks perfect, but has thousands of small circular scratches…. Any advice please?
Sounds as if your 'hire' shop has let you down.You really need to get a finer paper on that buffer 150 grit maybe even 200. Forget the nonsense about using belt/drum sanders, you'll only make more marks. You must get every speck of grit vacuumed up before the final sanding,we use disposable paper overshoes.Try 'water popping' that's a light spray of water or a moist cloth over the floor and let it dry before you start applying the finish.This will let the Osmo penetrate deeper into the grain.Good luck!
mack
mack
It's a matter of opinion mack4 whether belt and drum sanders are nonsense, but you are entitled to your own. I just relate what works for me and pass it on to those who ask. I have no problem with drum sanders and just 3 grades of paper in most scenarios, 40, 80 & 120 and usually achieve a perfect finish, always finishing along the grain!!
If your preferred method is countless sheets of 200 grit on a an orbital sander, then say so. no need to rag someone else's suggestion.
What i do know, is that "water popping" as you call it, does not let Osmo hardwax/oil penetrate deeper into any floor, as you suggest. Water is water based and Osmo hardwax oil is oil/wax based, the two repell each other,. Primary school science my learned friend !!
If your preferred method is countless sheets of 200 grit on a an orbital sander, then say so. no need to rag someone else's suggestion.
What i do know, is that "water popping" as you call it, does not let Osmo hardwax/oil penetrate deeper into any floor, as you suggest. Water is water based and Osmo hardwax oil is oil/wax based, the two repell each other,. Primary school science my learned friend !!
Oh dear…. Now I really am confused! I thank you both for the advice, but it has put me in a dilemma too…. Which do I go with?
To be honest I don’t have any faith in the Hire Shops here (NZ). None of them have any finer grit than 120, and most only have 100. I spent the whole of the other day trying to get some 180 grit (200mm wide) for a drum sander, but no one has it!!!! I must also admit that I am scared of getting the stop/start marks in the floor as I did with my initial trials with the drum sander, especially after flatting the surface to perfection with the orbital sander….. which was great apart from the circular swirls! I am thinking that maybe I should once again get the orbital, and just insist on the 120 grit being backed only on 120 grit!? Even then I don’t know if I would be able to get the swirls all out (I mean even see them). The floor looks so bloody lovely, and its only when you get down with your face to it, and the light right that you see the swirls, that is until you apply the oil, then they jump up at you!!!! I would never have thought that this was so difficult a task to get right! The worst part is that the standards here are quite poor in many respects, and even if I paid a local pro floor sander to do it, it would probably not even get to where it is now (I have seen some of their jobs… eek!)
So… do I go get the orbital sander again, and clinically inspect/hoover the floor every meter as I go along, or do I chance the aggressiveness of the drum sander again with the 120 grit paper????
Also, does it sound like a good orbital sander, I mean with the scotch pad and double sided paper affair? I should have thought it would have been the Velcro backed type of paper that is required? Am I wrong?
To be honest I don’t have any faith in the Hire Shops here (NZ). None of them have any finer grit than 120, and most only have 100. I spent the whole of the other day trying to get some 180 grit (200mm wide) for a drum sander, but no one has it!!!! I must also admit that I am scared of getting the stop/start marks in the floor as I did with my initial trials with the drum sander, especially after flatting the surface to perfection with the orbital sander….. which was great apart from the circular swirls! I am thinking that maybe I should once again get the orbital, and just insist on the 120 grit being backed only on 120 grit!? Even then I don’t know if I would be able to get the swirls all out (I mean even see them). The floor looks so bloody lovely, and its only when you get down with your face to it, and the light right that you see the swirls, that is until you apply the oil, then they jump up at you!!!! I would never have thought that this was so difficult a task to get right! The worst part is that the standards here are quite poor in many respects, and even if I paid a local pro floor sander to do it, it would probably not even get to where it is now (I have seen some of their jobs… eek!)
So… do I go get the orbital sander again, and clinically inspect/hoover the floor every meter as I go along, or do I chance the aggressiveness of the drum sander again with the 120 grit paper????
Also, does it sound like a good orbital sander, I mean with the scotch pad and double sided paper affair? I should have thought it would have been the Velcro backed type of paper that is required? Am I wrong?
Why were you looking for grit 180 if the maximum you should use when finishing with an oil finish is 120 grit? 180 is way too fine and will never allow the oil to penetrate into the wood.I spent the whole of the other day trying to get some 180 grit (200mm wide) for a drum sander, but no one has it!!!!
But as you can read, there are various "camps" out there. Belt sanders are better than drum sanders, but hardly any hire shops have them so that's difficult for a DIY-er to get hold of (or you have to spend money on getting one from the London area). Drum sanders will definitely leave more marks on your floor, which leaves an orbital sander and a lot of patience.
Kevinweet: with a herringbone or similar pattern you go wall to wall and finish with a Trio sander for the best result.
Try sanding this "with the grain":
If you think he can use a drum/belt sander you've not read his post mac391
Kevin was obviously not aware of the vagaries of either ,but he is aware enough to know, not to go that route AGAIN.As for water popping 'almost' everyone knows the purpose is, to open the grain and let the 'finish penetrate the timber whatever it is.Also most floors are finished with a buffer these days.
Finally, good point about the parquet, Karin,but if Kevin's in NZ why would he want to hire a belt sander in London?
mack
Kevin was obviously not aware of the vagaries of either ,but he is aware enough to know, not to go that route AGAIN.As for water popping 'almost' everyone knows the purpose is, to open the grain and let the 'finish penetrate the timber whatever it is.Also most floors are finished with a buffer these days.
Finally, good point about the parquet, Karin,but if Kevin's in NZ why would he want to hire a belt sander in London?
mack
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