Outside light L/N/E

[Error37]

Hi all,

I'm sure this is a basic question so sorry in advance. Couldn't think how to phrase the question in an online search so thought posting to a forum may be easier. I did search this forum and the Wiki first but couldn't see an answer - I did see something similar to what I want to achieve located here but I'm still confused, and I'll try to explain why lol.

I have a light outside my front door I want to replace. Have taken the old light off and there are 3 T&E cables, one of which is using the Neutral as a switched live. I don't know how to connect the new outdoor light which only has L N E connection. I can kind of see the idea from the Wiki page above, but in that page it seems to have one of the cable's having 2 live wires, which I presume is the switched live, but which of these, if any, should I be treating as the neutral? I'm clearly simple as I can't understand it from the page above!

Thanks in advance

Edit: Looking at it again, do I just not have a neutral from that cable? And does it matter which Live I use in the L terminal? I.e should I use the switched live instead...

 

[EFLImpudence]

Well, without being too dismissive, you connect it the same as the old one.

one of which is using the Neutral as a switched live.

No. Neutral is not a word for blue or black.
Neutral is the conductor which completes the circuit from the load (light) back to the supply.
Wires do not know or care what colour they are.

Looking at it again, do I just not have a neutral from that cable? And does it matter which Live I use in the L terminal? I.e should I use the switched live instead...

Yes. The supply live in out and the live to the switch must be connected together but to nothing else.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Treat the connectors in the ceiling rose as separate connector blocks.

Plus there might be an earth wire from the new light.

 

[Error37]

Thanks for your quick reply. No I don't think you're being dismissive Thanks for taking the time to help!

So in reference to your last point, the switched live and the live (that come from the same cable) both go into the 'L' terminal of the new light?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Yes, a copy of the photo that you took of the old wiring would help please.

you did take a picture?

 

[EFLImpudence]

So in reference to your last point, the switched live and the live (that come from the same cable) both go into the 'L' terminal of the new light?

No, only the switched live (the black with red sleeve in the diagram - return wire from the switch) goes to the light L.

 

[Error37]

Yes, a copy of the photo that you took of the old wiring would help please.

you did take a picture?

I'm so amateurish I didn't take a photo.

To be fair, the only wires that were connected to the old one was the neutral into 'N' and the switched live into 'L1', nothing else was connected. It was double insulated but the new light is metal.

 

[EFLImpudence]

To be fair, the only wires that were connected to the old one was the neutral into 'N' and the switched live into 'L1', nothing else was connected. It was double insulated but the new light is metal.

Then you just copy that - plus connect the light earth wire to the other earth wires.

 

[terryplumb]

At your outside light position ,is there only one outer sheathed cable that has 3 insulated conductors ,and one bare copper earth conductor within it ?
If so connect the neutral ,switched live and earth conductors to the new lamps terminal block and the remaining conductor in an insulated terminal block that does not connect to anything within the fitting.

 

[Error37]

Then you just copy that - plus connect the light earth wire to the other earth wires.

It was the lack of an L1 terminal that confused me, coupled with one of the cables having no neutral (in my mind), but your subsequent replies clarified how it's done when I'm not guessing! I'll try the connections now and see if it works, thanks very much for the help.

 

[Error37]

At your outside light position ,is there only one outer sheathed cable that has 3 insulated conductors ,and one bare copper earth conductor within it ?
If so connect the neutral ,switched live and earth conductors to the new lamps terminal block and the remaining conductor in an insulated terminal block that does not connect to anything within the fitting.

No, at the outside light there are 3 of these cables, if that makes sense?

 

[terryplumb]

No, at the outside light there are 3 of these cables, if that makes sense?

Ok ,follow EFL's instructions.

 

[Error37]

I guess the new light is dodgy (or my DIY skills), because I connected earth's to E, neutrals to N and the switched live into L. Then terminated the other Lives into a terminal connector/choc block. When turning on the power and pressing the switch, the new light comes on briefly then goes off again. If I flick on/off nothing. But if I turn it off, leave it 30 seconds or so then turn it back on, again it comes on briefly then goes off. It's not a dawn till dusk light or anything...

 

[Taylortwocities]

Before you return what is provably a perfectly working light, I suggest that you test the light by just connecting it up to a standard 13A plug and just checking that it does work.

Once you know that it works, It will be time to get out your voltage tester or multimeter and find out exactly what you have there.

 

[Error37]

Before you return what is provably a perfectly working light, I suggest that you test the light by just connecting it up to a standard 13A plug and just checking that it does work.

Once you know that it works, It will be time to get out your voltage tester or multimeter and find out exactly what you have there.

Yes good idea, I was planning on doing the plug test. Hadn't thought about using the multimeter on supply though, cheers!