So I have the below setup
-------FCU 13a------double socket------light switch ------outside light
Correct?
-------FCU 13a------double socket------light switch ------outside light
Correct?
Outside light wiring
- Thread starter dantheram
- Start date
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one of these?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-13a-dp-switched-fused-connection-unit-with-flex-outlet-white/13479
so,
FCU - - - - Normal double socket - - - - DP fused switch - - - - exterior light
http://www.screwfix.com/p/mk-13a-dp-switched-fused-connection-unit-with-flex-outlet-white/13479
so,
FCU - - - - Normal double socket - - - - DP fused switch - - - - exterior light
Bump
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Yes, the same as FCU but with a switch and 3A fuse instead of the 13A it will have in it.
Thanks for the reply.
All sorted on the inside now.
I'm planning on drilling straight out through the wall from the switch location which will mean I have to run up the exterior wall and across to the light position. Is ordinary black sheathed twin an earth ok for this?
Also I suppose the light fixture will be designed for wires from the back so will have to chip out a hole to come in from beneath and seal with silicone.
Sound ok?
All sorted on the inside now.
I'm planning on drilling straight out through the wall from the switch location which will mean I have to run up the exterior wall and across to the light position. Is ordinary black sheathed twin an earth ok for this?
Also I suppose the light fixture will be designed for wires from the back so will have to chip out a hole to come in from beneath and seal with silicone.
Sound ok?
Yes, black rubber 3 core - it's not T&E.
Yes, but it may have entry somewhere else.
Yup.
When drilling out through the wall don't do what cable and sat fitters do and press as hard as they can on the drill all the way through - smashing a great big chunk out of the outer brickwork as they break though. Ease off when you are nearly through and you'll get a much neater hole.
Ok next question - how do I wire from DP SFCU to the light in a way which gives this functionality
Switch on = light on, PIR override.
Switch off = PIR on, default light off.
Remember I have t+e running to the switch and 3core + e on to the light outside.
Many thanks
Dan
Switch on = light on, PIR override.
Switch off = PIR on, default light off.
Remember I have t+e running to the switch and 3core + e on to the light outside.
Many thanks
Dan
I'm a bit late to this post.
Firstly the spur socket, you mention it has one cable and is 2m away from the CU. have you removed the CU cover and checked to see if it is a direct run?
The clue would be that on the mcb there will be three live cores, the two for the ring and one for the socket in question.
IF the above is correct you can provide the fsu AFTER the socket, the logic being that the socket is a direct spur, not a spur off a spur.
The fsu provides two pole isolation and there would be no reason why this couldn't be used as the switch, unless you get an un switched fuse spur
When you do your hole through the wall to the external side, you should have a slight lean down in angle from inside to out. This is to prevent water running down the cable and along and in to the house. You should also have a drip loop so water running down the external run, run past the entry hole.
As for the pir switching to perm on, most work on the basis of an on / off / on switching being done within 2 or 3 secs and that tells the pir to override the sensing element and stay on.
You will need to check the pir instruction to confirm this type of override is within its function.
Firstly the spur socket, you mention it has one cable and is 2m away from the CU. have you removed the CU cover and checked to see if it is a direct run?
The clue would be that on the mcb there will be three live cores, the two for the ring and one for the socket in question.
IF the above is correct you can provide the fsu AFTER the socket, the logic being that the socket is a direct spur, not a spur off a spur.
The fsu provides two pole isolation and there would be no reason why this couldn't be used as the switch, unless you get an un switched fuse spur
When you do your hole through the wall to the external side, you should have a slight lean down in angle from inside to out. This is to prevent water running down the cable and along and in to the house. You should also have a drip loop so water running down the external run, run past the entry hole.
As for the pir switching to perm on, most work on the basis of an on / off / on switching being done within 2 or 3 secs and that tells the pir to override the sensing element and stay on.
You will need to check the pir instruction to confirm this type of override is within its function.
I've put in a 13a Fcu before the sockets now so I'm fixed re the inside work.
I have seen the lights in the shop with the override function through switching. However, wouldn't it be simpler just to wire it up so a switched live gives a direct feed to the light?
This is what I'm not sure how to do from the double pole SFCU to the light/PIR.
I have seen the lights in the shop with the override function through switching. However, wouldn't it be simpler just to wire it up so a switched live gives a direct feed to the light?
This is what I'm not sure how to do from the double pole SFCU to the light/PIR.
After the double pole isolator add a two gang switch.
Or use the isolator as over ride OFF and have a single gang switch to provide over ride ON.
The diagram shows the PIR separate. In a lamp with built in PIR there is almost always access to the switched live
Or use the isolator as over ride OFF and have a single gang switch to provide over ride ON.
The diagram shows the PIR separate. In a lamp with built in PIR there is almost always access to the switched live
I may be totally confused here but can't i have the perm on and off function from the switched FCU?
i dont want a wall full of plastic FCU/Switches - i thought i could just have light switch on the wall and flick it on for permanent light and off for PIR only?
i dont want a wall full of plastic FCU/Switches - i thought i could just have light switch on the wall and flick it on for permanent light and off for PIR only?
I may be totally confused here but can't i have the perm on and off function from the switched FCU?
i dont want a wall full of plastic FCU/Switches - i thought i could just have light switch on the wall and flick it on for permanent light and off for PIR only?
Novice here, but the issue with that there would be no way to isolate the light without flicking off the power from the CU? Would it not make changing the bulb a pain, as you would lose all your sockets?
I may be totally confused here but can't i have the perm on and off function from the switched FCU?
i dont want a wall full of plastic FCU/Switches - i thought i could just have light switch on the wall and flick it on for permanent light and off for PIR only?
Novice here, but the issue with that there would be no way to isolate the light without flicking off the power from the CU? Would it not make changing the bulb a pain, as you would lose all your sockets?
can isolate by removing the 13a fuse at socket FCU
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