Oven needs wiring to a dedicated circuit?

If you can get to the consumer unit safely then using the MCB is an option but MCB do not isolate the Neutral. If the oven has a fault that create an Earth leakage fault then a the RCD will still trip even if the MCB is OFF.

A double pole switch that fully isolates the oven would enable the RCD to be reset without having to get the tools and disconnect the oven.
 
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If I run a new radial circuit do I also need a switch in the kitchen to turn the oven off (whether over the countertop or inside a base unit next to the oven) or would the MCB suffice for the sake of isolating the oven without having to physically touch it?
There are no requirements in the regs for such a switch even for a cooker.
 
This is only my opinion, as I said earlier, but for future proofing, I would go for at least a 32A circuit.
Given the hype around gas supplies and CO2 at the moment, alternatives such as induction hobs can take a lot of current! :)
 
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This is only my opinion, as I said earlier, but for future proofing, I would go for at least a 32A circuit.
Given the hype around gas supplies and CO2 at the moment, alternatives such as induction hobs can take a lot of current! :)

I agree - cable suitable for 32amp will not ass much to the cost, but fit a 16amp MCB or possibly an RCBO and include a local DP means of isolation.
 
There are no requirements in the regs for such a switch even for a cooker.

I’m almost sure there are for dishwashers and washing machines, I thought it would be the same for ovens and cookers
 
There are no requirements in the regs for such a switch even for a cooker.
Correct there is no regulation demanding the fitting of an isolating device... However I can't think of one electrician who would be happy about making such an installation. Basic sense and sensibility AKA common sense points to being able to safely isolate a device such that the main switch doesn't have to be used and therefore leaving the rest of the installation functioning normally.
In any sort of emergency it's easier and quicker to operate a local isolator (as long as it's not in a stupid location- like over the cooker) than to start wandering around the house, moving the buggy and Henry to be able to get to the fuse box scrub that;) consumer unit.

So is the switch obligatory? No
Is the switch a sensible idea? Yes
Would I install a cooker without a switch? No
 
I’m almost sure there are for dishwashers and washing machines, I thought it would be the same for ovens and cookers
There are no such requirements for dishwashers and washing machines either. But they come with plugs which when pulled are the best isolation there is.
 
I agree - cable suitable for 32amp will not ass much to the cost, but fit a 16amp MCB or possibly an RCBO and include a local DP means of isolation.

If in the future I were to replace the gas hob with induction, would it be enough to replace the 16A MCB with a 32A one or would I still need to protect the oven with a 16A MCB (and where would this go?)
 
If in the future I were to replace the gas hob with induction, would it be enough to replace the 16A MCB with a 32A one or would I still need to protect the oven with a 16A MCB (and where would this go?)
The 16 amp MCB is not to protect the oven it is to protect the cable so yes you can change the MCB to 32 amps.
 
If in the future I were to replace the gas hob with induction, would it be enough to replace the 16A MCB with a 32A one or would I still need to protect the oven with a 16A MCB (and where would this go?)
This depends on the cable more than anything else.
As many on here regularly state: According to the regulations; the fuse/MCB is only there to protect the cable. If the oven has a fitted cable that needs to be adequately protected, if it's 1.5mm² then yes it will require a maximum of 16A fuse/MCB, others will dispute this.

EDIT Within their statement they will often totally forget to ask about the size of the cable when the say it's ok.
See post number 26
 
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If in the future I were to replace the gas hob with induction, would it be enough to replace the 16A MCB with a 32A one or would I still need to protect the oven with a 16A MCB (and where would this go?)

You could replace the 16 with a 32 without need to rip the old cable out and install another new one. What then happens at the oven end, depends on the oven.
 
Well, I guess the protection the oven and its fitted cable need is from short circuit rather than overloading as the oven cannot change its maximum power; so both a 16A or 32A will provide short circuit protection and I might as well fit the proper MCB for the cable from the start
 

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