Oven no longer working

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My friend's oven is not showing any power whatsoever. It looks like it has a clock but everything is off.

The red light on the wall socket is off but the switch in the CU is on/up.

What would be the next step?

Would it be a case of pulling the switch/fuse out of the CU (after turning off the main switch of course) to check it or are these modern CUs different?

I must say, she has other wall switches with a redlights for other items that are working but one of the light is barely visible compared with the other.

Thanks very much and hope you can help.
 
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I think you've probably reached the limit of reasonable diagnostics, and concluded that the problem is either with the red light of the switch, or between the busbar and the switch.

If it were me id pull out the oven and use a volt stick on the cable to give me an idea where to start. If that shows nothing I'd isolate then remove the wires from the consumer unit and check the continuity to the switch, then either replace that cable or test the MCB, and either replace that or check continuity downstream of the switch. If all that's fine it must be the oven itself, or a bad contact at a screw terminal.
 
Do NOT start pulling the consumer unit apart. there are a lot of things to check first.

You can check the output of the MCB without disconnecting ANYTHING.

No red light on "wall switch" (is that the cooker switch?) I would get my two-probe voltage tester, or multimeter, and investigate if the supply is getting to the switch first..
 
Sorry I meant I'd only go in the cu once I'd found nothing on the other end of the cable. But safe isolation would apply and it would be dead testing inside the cu.
But for the op I think he's reached the limit of basic testing.
 
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Thanks for your help.
I am assuming that because the red light on the wall socket no longer 'glows' then the supply has stopped although I will check just in case it's the bulb that has broken!
If there is no supply to the wall socket then what would be the next step? Shall I replace the 30A circuit breaker for the cooker?
Thanks again.
 
I am assuming
Never assume. As i said above, use a
two-probe voltage tester, or multimeter, and investigate if the supply is getting to the switch first..

You said
I will check just in case it's the bulb that has broken!

THINK. The cooker doesn't work, the 'bulb' doesn't work. What makes you think that the bulb is the problem?
The elctricity is not getting from the consumer unit to the cooker.
There are several steps on the way that can be tested. To do this you need something to test with, and some thought about what you are doing. If you do not possess both of these attributes, then the best favour that you can do your friend is to get an electrician to sort this out.

And stop guessing that the problem might be the breaker. It is possible, but most unlikely. And there are easy tests that you can carry out without having to undo anything. That is if you have something to test with, and some thought about what you are doing.
 
I knew I shouldn't have used the word 'assume'!

In my first post I did mention that another socket was working but the red light was only so slight so I thought I could 'assume' that the red light on the cooker one 'may' had already died AND now there is no supply no matter how unlikely that might be.
I'm trying to help her as her contract finished and she's finding it very difficult to get another job therefore she has no money and is struggling to pay the basic bills othrwise I would tell her to use an electrician for something like this especially since she no longer lives near me! I thought I'd try as much as I can before I tell her it's beyond me. I can do a bit especially with guidance before I give up.
As mentioned, she no longer lives near me so if I have a few options to try then 'maybe' it might get sorted in one journey.....or she will just have to live without an oven until she gets back on her feet.

Thanks very much.
 
In my first post I did mention that another socket was working but the red light was only so slight so I thought I could 'assume' that the red light on the cooker one 'may' had already died
Yes, I know you did. BUT in most houses, the sockets and cooker are on completely separate circuits from the fuseboard!
 

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