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Oven wiring etc

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by tommy8884, 13 Jun 2019.

  1. tommy8884

    tommy8884

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    Hi there.

    We live in a 2 year old new build. After we moved in the we had the builder take out the gas hob and replace it with an induction hob. The existing hob switch was not rated high enough as it was just for a gas pilot. The builder ran a feed off the existing oven isolation switch which is above the hob. That already had 2 ovens on it. First question. Is that ok?

    Second question, we have replaced one of the 2 side by side ovens with a microwave AND warmer drawer. There are only 2 sockets running to the isolation switch. 1 for the original oven, 1 for the new built in microwave, but nothing for the warmer drawer. The oven/microwave have 3 pin plugs on flex. Can I daisy chain the warmer drawer off the back of the microwave (the flex is removable as it can be hard wired in). I know this will work electrically, but is it allowed? Technically as it's to a 3 pin plug, I'm not altering the wiring?
     
  2. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

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    Probably.

    What is the rating of the MCB or RCBO for the circuit?

    What are the loads for the ovens, the warmer drawer and the hob?


    No.

    Add another socket, or change the single to a double.
     
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  3. AndyPRK

    AndyPRK

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    or consider plugging some (or one) of the items (with plugs) into the socket circuit
     
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  4. tommy8884

    tommy8884

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    Hi, Thanks for your reply.

    There is one double socket behind the oven and microwave. Both are occupied, one with the oven, one with the microwave. The socket runs off an isolation switch by the hob.

    My only options would be

    1. Run the warmer tray to the back of the oven, or microwave. Essentially running them off the same plug,
    2. install a third socket off the double socket (would require certified electrician)
    3, simply run a multi gang of one plug. Not sure the fuse would take it.
     
  5. AndyPRK

    AndyPRK

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    doesn't your kitchen have other sockets for kettle etc. try and run of one of them.
    I know you may need to add another socket
     
  6. winston1

    winston1

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    No, it wouldn't.
     
  7. ban-all-sheds

    ban-all-sheds

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    But ideally a competent electrician should be used to check the size of the cable and the loop impedance.
     
  8. tommy8884

    tommy8884

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    There are a couple single plugs under the fridge and freezer (the ovens are above them). They just dangle loose under the units. I can change one to a double and run the warmer drawer off that. Warmer draw is only up to 70c so shouldn't draw much.
     
  9. seasickstevie

    seasickstevie

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    :rolleyes:
     
  10. tommy8884

    tommy8884

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    I know. Not great in a new build
     
  11. winston1

    winston1

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    Do you mean single sockets?
     
  12. tommy8884

    tommy8884

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    Yes. There are 2 single sockets literally lying on the floor under the units. They are both occupied by fridge and freezer. The oven and microwave are on top of the fridge and freezer.

    I could drop a flex from the warmer drawer down to the sockets and convert one to a double.


    Or plug microwave and warmer drawer into multi gang.
     
  13. AndyPRK

    AndyPRK

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    can you switch the fridge or freezer off from another switch?
    Pictures can sometimes help.

    converting the fridge one to a double sounds like a good idea.
     
  14. tommy8884

    tommy8884

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    Hi, Yes. The fridge/Freezer have a fused switch by the cooker isolation switch.

    This pic shows the set up. Bottom left, freezer. Bottom right, fridge. Top left microwave. Top right oven. The gap above the microwave is for the warmer drawer (which i need the socket for.


    These are the sockets are in the top right cupboard. Microwave and oven are plugged into these.


    These are the sockets lying under the fridge freezer. Fridge and freezer plugged into these.


    These are the isolation switches by the hob. (note the hob one does nothing as the electric hob now runs off the oven switch on the far right)


    My preferred choice is to add an additional single socket next to the double socket in the second image. Running off the oven isolation. But this is altering things so i'm not sure i'm allowed.
     
  15. winston1

    winston1

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    Well that for a start is pointless. It should be an unfused switch as the fridge and freezer have fuses in their plugs. Those sockets should not be sitting on the floor like that either. They should be fixed to something, like the wall.
     
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