Oven wiring

[sakm]

Hi all before I get a sparkie in I want a bit of advice on whether I would be wasting my time!

I have a dedicated cooker switch with 13amp plug and 45amp isolator running off a 32amp mcb

it is also powering a 13amp socket for the extractor

The oven states it can be run off a 13amp plug

I have also found behind the wall the wiring has been extended with chocy blocks and taped up see pic below

Ideally I would like to replace the 45amp isolator and replace it with a double gang socket and run the wiring down to another socket which would be in a cupboard for the oven and reducing the mcb to 20amp?

Is this a viable option and should I be looking at a better solution for the chocy block?

Any advice or recommendations welcome

Thanks

 

[EFLImpudence]

I have also found behind the wall the wiring has been extended with chocy blocks and taped up see pic below.

Not ideal, but alright if the connectors are rated for the current.
You must not bury them - use a blank plate.

Ideally I would like to replace the 45amp isolator and replace it with a double gang socket

Do you mean replace the cooker switch with a socket?
If so, not a good idea.

and run the wiring down to another socket which would be in a cupboard for the oven and reducing the mcb to 20amp?

There's no need to alter the MCB if you are going to use a socket and plug for the oven.

better solution for the chocy block?

Not without rewiring.

You could put the cooker switch where the blocks are and rewire to the oven.

 

[sakm]

the wiring was already buried it had a wooden plate over is and was tiled over!

yes I was thinking of getting the switch removed and replaced with a socket

I did think about putting a switch where the blocks are it has been moved to the left as its directly above the hob but I am moving the hob to the left anyway so that would no longer be an issue

My thinking was do I need a isolator if the oven is on a socket?

 

[EFLImpudence]

My thinking was do I need a isolator if the oven is on a socket?

No, an isolator is not actually required, but the switch might be useful and better thought of as an emergency switch - although probably never needed.

You could replace both (switch and blocks) with sockets if you wanted.
Is there no chance in the future you may want the circuit for a bigger oven and a hob?

 

[sakm]

There would be no chance for me to change to an electric hob or larger oven we prefer gas hob

would 6mm T+E fit in to sockets? as thats whats there!

 

[EFLImpudence]

would 6mm T+E fit in to sockets? as thats whats there!

Yes, but you would need to inspect the sockets - some makes have bigger terminals than others.

4mm² would be adequate for the outgoing cable.

 

[sakm]

Thanks

Having thought about it more I would probably be best and easier to put one of these in https://www.screwfix.com/p/lap-1-gang-45a-dp-switch-white/25742 down to a socket for the oven or fixed flex and convert the current oven switch to a double socket

That would eliminate the chocy blocks and put a switch over it which solves the accessibility issue too

 

[EFLImpudence]

Yes.