Painting external oak veneer door black & Sapele frame w

11 Jan 2012
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United Kingdom
Hello Painters
When is come to painting, i am pants. Over the years i come to relise it aint just about slapping the stuff on, it take a bit of thought & care and probaly a whole lot more
that i just havent figured out yet!

Please could any of you painters put me the right track & answer a few of my questions below

Looking for some advice & brand choices regarding painting external oak veneer door to be painted black & sapele frame to be painted white white
The front door is new & has not been treated with anything. My questions are

1. How many coats of undercoat should i use for door and frame?
2. Is there a specific type of undercoat i should be using on frame and door?
3. The door is a four panel what order do you paint rails, stiles, panels?
4. Do you use a brush & roller?
5. When denibing beteewn coats on paint what do you use?
6. How many coats of paint do you apply?
7. Which brands would you recommends?
8. Is a satin finish easier to acheive than a gloss?

Thanks in advance for any advice given

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You have to be careful on veneers as the solvent in paint can break the glue down. Dec is pretty good on this stuff so hopefully he'll be along soon with some good advice. My advice would be a primer/sealer such as zinsser 123 (although check its ok for exterior application).
Is sapele a hard wood?, if it is use aluminium wood primer as your first coat. Two undercoats will give you a better film build but one is often enough.
My first choice for exterior paints is sickens, their u/c followed by XD gloss.

Paint the door panels first and take off any paint from rails and styles with white spirit on a rag. I start top right corner working right to left and downwards keeping the wet edges going at all times, TBH i couldn't explain so you'll understand it but don't leave any edge open for too long. I use a brush.
I don't think satin would be any easier to apply but never used it outside i like a high gloss or eggshell. Sikkens are great, Dulux weathershield not bad but slow drying times. Use between coats sanding paper to de-nib or wet and dry, use a high grade like p600. I use 180 and 240 in day to day use and use a worn piece of paper for de-nibbing .
As dcdec says, be very careful with engineered oak doors. Check the manufacturers specifications, I did some recently and the makers spec was under no circumstances to use solvent finishes because of de-lamination, the guarantee with these doors will be worthless if you don't follow their specifications.
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Be really careful with this stuff round your furniture. The smell this stuff kicks up really clings to everything. I had to get rid of a latex mattress I had and a couple of really good chairs because the smell just clung to everything. Dont make the same mistake as I did :evil:

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